Jump to content

JLSleather

Contributing Member
  • Posts

    7,359
  • Joined

Everything posted by JLSleather

  1. Single mag pouches --- works for most. Looks like about 4 3/4" x 3 3/4". Works for most mags.. I use 'em for G43, G42, XDs45, beretta and sig 9mm. I use slightly larger ones for teh G19, shield 9 and 45, etc.. with larger mags.
  2. So all together, looks like 25 straps. Somebody wanna take 'em all at 300 (shipped) ?@!
  3. To be clear, there are 3 of these, borders are about 1/4", so room to line 'n' stitch. Self explanatory here.. natural leather in 7/8 oz. The back of some of these has saw or splitter marks... not enough to cause harm but I always line them.
  4. Mix 'n' match any of the 'smooth' strips and embossed straps... 3 of choice for $45 (shipped)
  5. Wickett/Craig skirting, drum dyed. Mag pouch 'blanks" - leftover in the drawer. 4 black, 3 brown, 1 chestnut.. all to go at $50 NOTE this is 8 PAIRS of leather pieces, so makes 8 mag pouches Trim to suit, patterns free if you want 'em
  6. (3) wickett/Craig drum dyed chestnut skirting strips, 8 oz 1.5" wide x 47", 57", 57" The mark in the pic is about the only one at all, and that may buff out if dampening the strip (you do know you can stamp this stuff, right? ) dummy guns is sold
  7. (3) 1.5" wide H.O. belt blanks, 54"-56" long. I see one has a bit of black dye on it.. probably why it got set to the side. But it's 45-46" from one end, so either dye it black, or cut it off and make a sz 38-40 belt. (3) 1.25" wide HO belt blanks.. nice leather (7/8). Length about 48", 52", 52" (2) 1" wide HO 7/8 belt strips , aone about 50", one about 54"
  8. $100 gitsem all Duncan's (aluminum) Springfield XD (4") Ring's Springfield XD subcompact Ring's Glock 43
  9. YIKES! You might try removing it with an art gum eraser. Lifts it right off... no scratchin'
  10. Where did you get the dimensions for the printer?
  11. People do NOT bring me firearms. If you are approaching me with a weapon, I absolutely should KNOW you.
  12. I know, I know.. everybody hates getting a good deal --- good stuff for a little money. Sorry, time to pack (dragged it out long as I could, actually).. so I gotta have either some room or another truck This leather is Hermann Oak "A" or "B", and some Wickett/Craig "standard" (A) NEXT FEW DAYS ONLY (prices include US shipping) Belt strips, "plain" → mostly 1 1/4 and 1 1/2" wide... $45 for 3 of em includes US shipping Belt strips, embossed → mostly 1 1/4 and 1 1/2" wide... $45 for 3 of em includes US shipping "Pile" of mag pouch "blanks" → to make 8 single pouches -- predyed, mostly black ...$50 gitsem all "Dummy" guns → Duncan's Springfield XD (4"), Ring's Springfield XD subcompact, and Ring's Glock 43 ... $100 shipped More when the camera battery is charged!
  13. Been a while since I hand stitched a belt. "Back when" it took me a couple hours... but I was used to doing it frequently, and could about stitch in my sleep This would of course be dependent on the number of stitches per inch (I like 5 to 7 based on leather thickness, but some people make 11 spi look real nice!). I always say I don't care if it's hand stitched or machine stitched, long as it's well stitched! If done properly, either will be fine. These days, hand sewing is largely for small items -- which are sometimes easier to just sew by hand rather than change the machine setup -- or larger items- which may not fit in the machine so well. I would find it difficult to do it for the prices you mention. Grade A Hermann Oak would run about $25 (two layers), plus the thread, glue, dye, finish, etc... So even without 'sandwiching' anything between layers that doesn't leave much room for pay. That I suppose would depend on pricing and the value of a "dollar" where you are. "They" say time is money... but then notice how much of it they spend on 'social' poo-dia sites, forums, their phones. But the TIME involved in a project is never the question for me. Someone wanting to bill me "by the hour" is wasting his time and mine -- say the price for the item, and then I buy it or not. There are some projects which I would want hand sewn, and some projects where hand sewing might be a better idea than the machine they have available. But a belt isn't one of those times - doesn't matter, it's not getting that kind of stress. In those cases, I don't pay more for hand stitching. Same as if I agree to meet people somewhere, we all meet together. The guy who walked, and the guy who brought that ugly truck, and the guy in that shiny new sport scar all get the same "deal". Long as they meet, doesn't matter how they got there. Oh, almost forgot -- back when the boys at the gym wanted weight lifting belts, some tooling or maybe just a name on it. Double layer and stitched. So I gave em a price for 10 (or was it 12) belts. They wanted 'em hand sewn, so I told them I'd punch holes and give them thread so THEY could sew them. Suddenly, they decided sewn in a machine would be just fine Those belts still holding up 10+ years later.
  14. I was gonna suggest just putting an oak dowel (available in about any hardware store or craft store) in teh chuck of the drill press and shaping with a file (surprising how easy that is when you turn the drill press on). But for $22 and free shipping, maybe just order these already done. Course, there's sometimes a downside to ordering stuff.. I gotta find out why those blue guns somehow went to CA .... when they should have been here today.
  15. I got a basic version (including the proper stitch line, which is really all a guy needs to make about any style holster) for both the shield 9 and the shield 45 (not the same, but similar). Maybe I should be putting out a folder with all these?
  16. Yeah, basically "TR" means some of all grades. And HO does mark them -- there's a "A" or a "B" in the corner of each one when it arrives from the tannery. This doesn't mean someone else doesn't mark them as well. I haven't had any issues with ordering from HO. They send a mix of "A" and "B" -- tell em you want their best, and you'll get about 80% "A" and 20% "B" hides. Even the B's are quite clean and firm. I have ordered from a number of places, all claiming to be selling HO "A" and "B" grades, and none of it has been anywhere near as nice as the stuff from the tannery. And some was quite bad... nothing like what the tannery sends. Since I wasn't there to see who was doing what... can't really say WHY,... but order from the tannery is always the way to go.
  17. That aint that big.. not sure why it wouldn't upload, unless it shrank to send... Simple and clean-- I like it
  18. I aint seein' it. Check the address. jls_jeff@frontier.com
  19. iF it wont let you message it to me, you can email it to jls_jeff@frontier.com and I'll reduce it.
  20. That must be a B I G picture .
  21. I actually thought it might be easier to find the other way around.. find the printer file, and then 'convert' to cad.
  22. Yep, exactly what I was referring to -- in green. Thanks for the reply
  23. Okay, I got confused. Using your pic, if you mark the "stitch line", and then dye / glue to that (shaded area), then what holds the shape of the holster inside the stitch line, between the line and the gun? Or is you glue line different than the stitch line?
  24. My standard response when someone asks about sewing machines... best if you have someone in your area offering service / sales if you are not familiar with machines. Never a bad idea to see it work / test drive it. If you don't have someone in reasonable distance, call Bob. He has new and used machines, and can likely handle all your questions.
×
×
  • Create New...