JLSleather

Now that's a legitimate, specific question! Nobody? This is a GOOD question which I have never seen addressed in any video. I would think that many people wouldn't mind paying for that video, if it really did explain that. This is the type of video I was referring to.

Unless tha's a mirror, then good looking rig TWICE

Assorted ...

That sounds about right. I often use chrome tanned calf or goat for the 'innards', but some 2/3 (ish) veg will work too. And if you get the hankerin', those chaylor inserts sold at SLC are actually pretty decent. Oh, the checkbook goes the 7 1/4" way... and the extra 1/4' is to allow for the fold and the thickness of the checkbook.

Apparently not digital one Found one I started forever ago, never finished! Yep, you can add pockets. I don't like those big heavy weapons some call a checkbook.. 4/5 oz lined with 4/5 oz.. is a club, not a wallet I can tell you that the outside piece is 7 1/2" x 7 1/4". This will fit a checkbook without being 6" out of the pocket.

This is what I use. Cheap (you can get them cheap at hobby lobby or other places). WOrks good. The glass doesn't get stained (dye doesn't penetrate). They don't tip.. you'd have to want to tip it. And they seal, so once you have your color mixed, just put the lid on and it's ready for next time. Keep in mind, they're glass, so if you knock it off the bench, teh "non-tip" is moot ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Paasche-Jar-w-Cover-Gasket-3-oz-H-193-/331228464871?hash=item4d1ec146e7:g:oAEAAOxyEqNTlgRS

De nada Remember to get an empty bottle for mixing the dye and thinner. I use a glass bottle and an eye dropper. SOmething not prone to tipping ...

Well, long as we're commenting (crap, I aint gonna git nuthin done taday )... I don't call that butchered.. I'd call that 'amended' -- looks good! I'm actually not a fan of a "reinforcement panel" on teh front of a 50/50 pancake (it's not doing nearly as much "reinforcing" as people say, unless it wraps around). Still, a guy could do some basket stamp without the panel. This one is stitched at the top and bottom because it's lined (with natural goat). The stamp is used INSTEAD OF teh panel.

Not stain.. DYE. Reduced with .... [drum roll] .. dye REDUCER Like I said, nothing fancy needed (though you will want a good brush, not that junk you often find at leather suppliers). I use a different supplier, but using teh store you mention, yo'd want: https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-leather-dye-4-oz?variant=279098406 https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-dye-reducer-4-oz https://www.mainelineleather.com/collections/liquids/products/fiebings-tan-kote-4-oz And a brush can be had from art or hobby stores. Red sable hair is the classic, but some others may work.

Oh, that was done with chocolate leather dye from Fiebings, with a small brush. Full strength in the background areas, thinned about 30:1 on the floral design (roughly). Then covered with a coat of Tan-Kote when the dye was dry (next day). Oh, and by the way - that's not my design. You can get the pattern for that one in Stohlman's holster book.

I thought it looked like one piece, but tough to be sure without seeing the OTHER side of the pouch. As is, it looks like they stitched down the fold. Looks like Joon typing at the same time. It looks like his design is correct.

Actually, my name isn't JL (it's Jeff). The name on the page is J L S not JL's But which page? Are you looking at teh holsters? If you click on it, it should have a caption telling you what it is.

I use leather dye, and seal with either Tan-Kote or Resolene. That's bout all i use. I have never liked antique. Don't like the look it gives -- messes up perfectly good leather. I've seen some really great carvings basically ruined with it. Common sense question, though -- WHY would I want to buy another product, to prevent or "resist" the antique (meaning 3 products) when I could just use a brush to put the dye where I want it in the first place? Even just using dyes, a bazillion combinations. cut to the short version... on my site are some "examples" of leather I've done - none of it has any antique, "resist", or lacquers. http://www.jlsleather.com/gallery/more-leather/ EDITED TO ADD: I was talking about the antique FINISH so many seem to laud. Sucks I have used the Fiebing's antique STAIN on occasion. And i have tried the antique DYE, but didn't care for it.

Well, I don't think it's 'so bad'. I'm not a fan of basket weave (i think it's way over done) but the color works. When I posted those patterns, I wanted them to be useable as-is -- but i never intended for everybody to make them 'just like that'. Idea is, a new guy can make that holster and gain some experience. And the next guy can use that design as a starting point to make his own design. Just FYI -- a 1/4" thick belt works in a 1/4" wide slot just fine How does the end look? In the pic, it looks like the pistol could have seated a bit deeper (to teh stitch line under it).. maybe the stagger in the stitch line was just a tad early?

What... NOBODY carvin' that in leather yet !@#!@$!

This is sitting in the tree across the road today. Wing span over 4'. My daughter's pups not been in a hurry to go outside

If 2 layers of 6 oz is as thick as you need to go, then many machines will do what you need. If you just want one, and can afford it, then by all means. But a '441 clone' is far more machine than you need.

She's unpacking most of the rest that's here today (as in there's still stuff coming from down there). I'm the guy who likes a smart dog, decent fishin' rod, truck what runs good, couple 0 leather tools ... The rest of this junk is hers - she takes care of that. Years ago, we had a pretty heavy computer desk. I wanted to leave it behind, she wanted it moved. Complained so much I finally said I'll move it, but you won't like it - so maybe get some boys from somewhere to do it. In the end, she insisted I move it. Which I did, by way of the second floor sliding door. There - it's down She hasn't asked me to move anything since. I'll do the dishes. I'll vacuum the floors. I'll clear the sidewalk when it snows. But if I have to move something more than twice, and I didn't need it in between there, it's gone. As for the weather being cold up here, there was a winter storm Thurs/Fri in teh midwest. Where I moved from got 12" of snow. Where i moved to we got none Currently trying to figure out where my mail is going, including some guns from Rings ... Need to get a couple patterns made up pretty quik, cuz in a month I'll be shopping for my own crap, probably catch me at Cabela's ...

OOOPS.. to answer your original question, teh 794 series needle is correct. I like the "LL" point needles, which you can get here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400730390609?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=670274800836&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT There are places to order in more bulk, but there isn't much cost saving ordering 100-packs, and these people are pretty quick.

Welcome -- thanks for puttin' em ta use!

I always have the needle as far up as it will go. Never did care for the 'S' needles, though, due to the hole they make (in line with stitch). The stitch length shouldn't affect skipping. More likely your needle is rotated out of position.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMVHrTPf1AQ&t=3s

Yeah, simple enough. I don't know of a "right" way -- including the one in your picture. Basically, decide how wide you want the belt, and how wide you want the pattern. Then decide how you'd like it to look finished - with or without those "fishtail" points between the ovals. Here's what I mean.. These are both 1 1/2" wide with 1/4" borders (don't need to be on the belt, just making a point), so the "pattern" is 1" wide. The area you want to cover is spaced evenly. In this example, the top and bottom belts are spaced the same horizontally (obviously you wouldn't mark the leather like that, just for example). In teh top example, the marks are made along the center line of the strap, and then an arc is made from point to point, meeting in the middle of the strap. Then teh same arc is marked again, upside down, meeting at the same points. On the bottom, the horizontal spacing is the same, but the arcs are marked 1/4" from each edge (you can use a square to keep them matched up). This leaves that 'diamond' or 'fishtail' look if you prefer that. As for the radius, this is why I say 'no right or wrong'. I have had people tell me they used anything from a coffee can to a dinner plate for the curve, and some actually draw it out on paper and trace.

I'm with him ↑ no help here. But for those who like the video version, here's what I mean, in other words... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur1SJo5ZcpI

Hermann Oak tannery (St Louis) is the only place that has never sent me a bad piece of leather. And I've tried quite a few places. Oh.. I will add that I have found some decent leather at Tandy stores. More the exception than the rule (and you need to go pick it out yourself, generally) but it has happened.