JLSleather

If 2 layers of 6 oz is as thick as you need to go, then many machines will do what you need. If you just want one, and can afford it, then by all means. But a '441 clone' is far more machine than you need.

She's unpacking most of the rest that's here today (as in there's still stuff coming from down there). I'm the guy who likes a smart dog, decent fishin' rod, truck what runs good, couple 0 leather tools ... The rest of this junk is hers - she takes care of that. Years ago, we had a pretty heavy computer desk. I wanted to leave it behind, she wanted it moved. Complained so much I finally said I'll move it, but you won't like it - so maybe get some boys from somewhere to do it. In the end, she insisted I move it. Which I did, by way of the second floor sliding door. There - it's down She hasn't asked me to move anything since. I'll do the dishes. I'll vacuum the floors. I'll clear the sidewalk when it snows. But if I have to move something more than twice, and I didn't need it in between there, it's gone. As for the weather being cold up here, there was a winter storm Thurs/Fri in teh midwest. Where I moved from got 12" of snow. Where i moved to we got none Currently trying to figure out where my mail is going, including some guns from Rings ... Need to get a couple patterns made up pretty quik, cuz in a month I'll be shopping for my own crap, probably catch me at Cabela's ...

OOOPS.. to answer your original question, teh 794 series needle is correct. I like the "LL" point needles, which you can get here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400730390609?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=670274800836&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT There are places to order in more bulk, but there isn't much cost saving ordering 100-packs, and these people are pretty quick.

Welcome -- thanks for puttin' em ta use!

I always have the needle as far up as it will go. Never did care for the 'S' needles, though, due to the hole they make (in line with stitch). The stitch length shouldn't affect skipping. More likely your needle is rotated out of position.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMVHrTPf1AQ&t=3s

Yeah, simple enough. I don't know of a "right" way -- including the one in your picture. Basically, decide how wide you want the belt, and how wide you want the pattern. Then decide how you'd like it to look finished - with or without those "fishtail" points between the ovals. Here's what I mean.. These are both 1 1/2" wide with 1/4" borders (don't need to be on the belt, just making a point), so the "pattern" is 1" wide. The area you want to cover is spaced evenly. In this example, the top and bottom belts are spaced the same horizontally (obviously you wouldn't mark the leather like that, just for example). In teh top example, the marks are made along the center line of the strap, and then an arc is made from point to point, meeting in the middle of the strap. Then teh same arc is marked again, upside down, meeting at the same points. On the bottom, the horizontal spacing is the same, but the arcs are marked 1/4" from each edge (you can use a square to keep them matched up). This leaves that 'diamond' or 'fishtail' look if you prefer that. As for the radius, this is why I say 'no right or wrong'. I have had people tell me they used anything from a coffee can to a dinner plate for the curve, and some actually draw it out on paper and trace.

I'm with him ↑ no help here. But for those who like the video version, here's what I mean, in other words... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ur1SJo5ZcpI

Hermann Oak tannery (St Louis) is the only place that has never sent me a bad piece of leather. And I've tried quite a few places. Oh.. I will add that I have found some decent leather at Tandy stores. More the exception than the rule (and you need to go pick it out yourself, generally) but it has happened.

Your leather is far too wet.

well, yah, it gits cold, but it's a relative cold. Like not panama, but not the arctic

'cepfer he wants a 'flat back' rig. I guess I could go on design a stack o' those, but really I just figgered folks would adjust that themselves.

Web site "back on". Ron - we don't know.. you got a pattern fer 'im?

catching up a bit at a time. Just adding that if you have a @frontier - dot - something email address for me, it aintno goodno more lights should be back on at the web site shortly ...

If you got away with $1k, you must not have met my wife

Oh, I don't have that one too Just the SOLO around here, though I been meanin'ta pick it up a bit!

I could get fakebook messages all day long and never know it I did know about the site (bill is due yesterday ) but I appreciate the 'heads up' What pattern did they need? Maybe just post it here in the interest of speed ... According to the wench wife, shopping oak bar stools is higher on the priority list!

Yep, finally moved in (MN). 60 degrees today, but expecting snow Friday

Since your profile says interested in tooling, then you will need tooling leather. Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig are the big ones in the U.S.

Okay, bunch of stuff off the trucks 'n' trailers. Piles beginning to get sorted. Sewing machine - "check". Here, but not verified to be in one piece I really must have another coffee before proceeding ...

Yeah, another plug for Ray and friends .. very nice people, easy to work with, and the embossing roller works just fine Note they also make a decent holster mold.

Nope, sure don't know none. But if you've 'scoured', maybe you can tell us about some worth viewing

Your beveling looks deep enough. What's missing is the matting. Stohlman covers that issue pretty well in that book. For more examples - and discussion of this - - search for posts on this site by Yaklady... fantastic examples of matting. And here's a simple example just to show that the beveling doesn't need to be deep to show "depth" -- this wallet is done in 3/4 oz leather. I particularly liked this one:

Strange -- that pictorial carving book is GREAT for that type of thing. Got a pic of your progress? Maybe I can suggest something ..

nice color!