JLSleather

Just call them -- the folks at W/C will understand what you mean if you just tell them what you said here. And you should be able to email them a pic if that helps (I've done that to get a color I wanted).

Not so!! I put those up there so people could use them, but it's better if people use them as examples to start making their own! Don't tell nobody, but sometimes when I got crap in my wallet (that same one) I rather think I might have made it 1/4" bigger

I actually thought one of the saddle maker boys might like this one.. what with the rings and such. Plus, these days there's so much of that attitude where people want to click a button and be done, expect some benefit. The saddle boys ('n' girls) seem to be less intimidated by the thought of actually DOING something.

My sewing machine isn't even unpacked yet.. and then I have some Sig patterns to verify ... ughh.....

Got a fella wantin' this for 92fs Compact If you are interested in making this rig (and capable, please -- let's not burn up this guy's time) just message me your contact info and I'll pass it on to him. Chicago area. Time frame, price, and payment will be between you and him entirely.

Anybody like being referred when I can't get there? Got a message today about a rig I can't get round to. Responded that I will refer him if he would like. Not giving out his information, but if you are interested I'll give him yours. He wants ...: for 92fs Compact

You can do that with or without a groove. I usually use a creased line, personally Long as the left thread is going on the same side of the right thread - all the time -- you'll get -------- stitches. Using a diamond awl blade (i hate punches) with the flat side parallel to the edge of the leather.

Yep - works good. Wanna see why? Couple short videos on this over there at the 'observation' link below -- one about why I didn't like the one, and one about mounting the drop down version. Otherwise, yep -I use the drop guide, and yep I think it was worth installing it.

You stay at it, youngster! You'll want to work on burnishing, and I don't know if you maybe want to space the stitches a bit further apart. Still, you got some good ideas about shape and style, and already in the shop means definitely more than a toe in the water. Well done!

Either way. I have some of both. Now that the oil dyes are becoming available in more colors (they weren't always) i do use 'em.

If you want straight forward and simple, then I'd get Fiebing's dyes and reducer for color, renia glue (barge is very good, at the cost of brain cells), and finish with diluted resolene (dilute with pure water).

Yer purdy far east to be makin' them "US" rigs, yes? Seriously, those look good!

Well, that certainly went south. Not everything at Tandy (or anywhere else for that matter) is worth buying, even at a discount. I've had people punch me in the eye for FREE, and getting it for free did not make me want another one But some things there are okay, and it would be nice to have a place near where I could pick up a few snaps or a specific buckle without having to store so much here. I was in a tandy years back, struggling to find a stitching awl that would actually cut without hammering on it. Guy says' yep, those work good'. So I grabbed a 10 oz double shoulder from a few feet away, and went to stab it, which nearly caused the guy coronary problems. Told him I'll take the leather, and IF this cuts smoothly, I'll take the awl too. It didn't, and I left without what I came for and carrying a double shoulder I didn't really want If you can get a discount, have at it.

Not sure how stitching is like pinstriping, but you certainly can hand sew straight stitches. It's the only kind I sew (I always thought that angled stuff looked like maybe should be on the trim on some girl's clothes). WIthout going through the whole thing, stohlman covered that extensively.

Welcome to the forums, youngster Your best resource will be the customers, or even that guy with the small gun shop. You made the holsters.. now let them try the fit. Ask 'em what they like, what they don't... IF you are genuinely interested in making a quality product, most of us 'old' folks try to help the new kid out. In fact, there will be some who would help you, but wouldn't help me (or anyone my age) just because of your age. Many of us like to see a young person willing to learn something. IF on the other hand you are "that guy" who asks questions and feigns interest to drum up interest, well -- let's just say we have enough of that already! Now, keep in mind when I say "us" helping you, I mean the average guy looking for a personal holster. Many other holster makers may not be interested in helping you - terrified of any competition really. Don't worry about it. You're on the right track -- ask a question, get what you can use from the responses, and don't sweat too much over anything a bit off the path Some free patterns on my site for holsters - tested to all work. USe 'em as-is, or alter 'em to suit your needs. In fact, I wonder if a guy could take a free pattern, spend $10 making the holster, and then give it to the mom'n'pop shop and ask 'em how they like the fit. Then you'll be able to hold in your hand what works ... and likely (if folks are anything like 'back home') Mom will feed you and Pop will 'show ya the ropes' Now, before I jump to conclusions myself... is it young man or young lady? Maybe we'll just stick to 'youngster' ... Carry on, youngster...

And also figure it into the design. A "pancake" made on a curve, or flat backed, will alleviate most of this.

Not to give the wrong impression ... a brush is not "better" because it's double action. I have seen some art work done with a Paasche model H far beyond anything I've ever seen on this site . Years ago, I knew a guy who used only the H, and i had only the VL. He was no artist by any stretch, but that model H let him spray a "fade" all day long (in fact, it was about all he knew). Really, the difference in using one versus the other is not much. Both siphon feed (sucks the dye up from a cup), both push a button down more or less to vary the air flow amount. Beyond that, the amount of dye is controlled in the VL by pulling the lever back more or less, and controlled in the H by turning a screw more or less (almost like a small hose nozzle). I've seen people use both types very well A word of disclaimer -- I've used these brushes for years, with no trouble. I still use them, because if something gets 'boogered', I can get parts (needles and caps) for them right down town. And in the end, I use them because i know these models. But there are thousands of versions out there, and many are quite good.

Josh makin' saddles, likely can find a use for bellies for lining something, or wrapping something... etc. I have used a bit here and there for belt LINING, small front pocket wallets, things which won't get any hard use or stress.

$10 / foot darn tootin' fer elephant! Pieces that size, we'll be watchin' fer yer new line o handbags

NO NO NO... tell me i aint slower than old n slow!!! Ron.... HELP

I admit it.. I have never held a loaded gun upside down to see if it will fall out. Don't see me doin' that later, neither If you can take your 'dummy" gun, upside down, and give her a good snap of the wrist, yer good. It's not that technical, really. For an OWB holster, I figure if I can step in the truck without it crashing, all is well. Standard practice is to make them just a hair tight, and let the customer decide how tight he / she wants it. I send 'em a folded business card (lengthwise) ... tell 'em just use that as a shim if they want to loosen it. Set it up against the slide, insert both in the holster, wait a bit, pull it.. the holster will be "looser" by about 1/32" (ish). Or, if you really want to hit the sweet spot for each customer, get some rubber hose and screws and make them adjustable.

There are some free ones on my site. 100% money-back guarantee... you don't like it.. full refund.

Just FYI As a rule, I have found about a $30 difference between backs and sides. Since I wouldn't pay $30 for the belly, I don't order it. Plus, if you're shipping 10 or 20 (or for some people 50) sides, that's quite a bit of weight to pay shipping on for leather I don't use. Ironic, maybe -- every time this comes up, I offer to buy sides "next time" if someone wants to buy the bellies AT COST. Never had anybody take that up, though ..

Wickett & Craig makes some nice leather, too. Just sayin'. And you are correct... the best leather is along the spine of the animal, in the butt end. The rest is "downhill" from there, with the belly being the bottom of the totem. Either HO or W/C will sell you "backs".. no belly leather. Even then, I generally cut off and pitch the neck area.

I like the black one better. But then, I'm not a big fan of basket stamped, so ...