JLSleather

Back to where to get belt cow ... Alex (Boriqua) says he's been happy with the leather from http://aleatherd.com/ I haven't been there as yet, but it looks like Alex knows something about leather, and thus he's convinced me to test it out Phone call this morning gets a message that Bridgett is away from her desk, but since it's new years eve in parts of KY, that's no great surprise. Plus I have no idea who Bridgett is

Machine shop should be able to re-create pins for you. Got one in your area? Back when I "worked", I often made pins of various sizes to replace "unreplaceable" parts on things from shafts to outboard motors. One day when I have room, I simply MUST get a metal lathe... put all that training to some use after all

At that price, not much reason left not to try it.

That don't look bad.. like ya say.. nice to know if that's consistent one order to the next. No pricing on their site, either. Also, not sure if it's the leather, or maybe just your camera settings -- but that looks a little darker than HO or W/C... just a tad more "russet"-ish

That basket stamp looks crisp, clear. So is that from a side, or a shoulder?

Looks purdy crisp

I like 3/4 on the outside, unless it's for large wallets (small handbags, etc.). This "roper" style wallet was done with 3/4 tooling leather and a Chaylor insert from SLC. Recently got a really sweet letter from the gal who bought it that after a couple of years, it still looks just like new. OH, yeah.. 3/4 oz be about 1.5mm This one also done with 3/4 (Royal Meadow from Tandy), and lined with 1 1/2 oz kidskin from S-T Leather.

IF I'm using a 4 oz liner, I run teh liner up to the slot for the buckle, fold the top OVER the liner (for about 3 1/2"). The back side of the front strap does not show unless you unfold it. IF I'm using an 8 oz liner (which is rare), then I stop the liner even with the folded over top piece, so there is no gap and no overlap (butt joint).

In today's mail ... HO A-grade $7.81 up to 8 oz, $7,95 above 8 oz Backs add 1.45 / ft Making HO A backs $9.26 / ft HO_2017.pdf

Same here. They cut pretty nice.. for a little while...

EXACTLY! Best way to know. I think where folks get into "issues", they make a pattern (often from paper) and then use that pattern to mark the OUTside instead of the INside.

TRUE... and it's only less 'visible' due to teh sueded side 'hiding' a bit of the 'smoosh'... so only matters to the extent that once it's shaped, the inside still has to be big enough to put whatever goes in there

Yeah, not sure there is a "trick" for getting the right amount of curve. Educated guess, maybe more like it. Obviously, a dog collar is more "curved" than a belt for me.... Guy needs to get it close to the size you want.. for teh curve. And your mention of a can or pipe brings up exactly the issue - each layer you put on top of the last layer needs to be LONGER than any layers before (under) it. Somewhere around here I did some math about that..... but it will depend on the thickness of the leather (thicker leather gets longer between layers than thin stuff). As to teh wrinkles, once layers are glued together, they are working against each other in terms of stretch/compress. So if you glue two layers "flat", then when you curve it the outside will stretch and the inside will compress. Which lead a lot o the boys makin' belts curved. Including me. But I don't particularly like that, really. If you glue it flat, the inside gets compressed. But if you glue it on a curve, then when you straighten it, the OUTside gets compressed, which you would have to say is WORSE - particularly if you spent the time to tool it. In the end, I try to 'guess' the belt curve, and make it with 'not quite enough' curve, so the guy has to pull it on around just a bit. The deformation is minimal, if any, and teh finish isn't damaged when it's straightened. And it WILL get straight, even if that's only when a guy pulls it out of the belt loops...

Oh, yeah.. completely forgot about boys doin' this in different climates! Up here, the temp can change like 50 degrees in a day.. with humidity to boot... so I do all my stuff inside... about 70 degrees and low humidity. Only outside on sunny days in August!

What deal? The slings? The belts? The dies? All of the above Prolly got yer info somewhere.. send me a message or gimme a call.. Slings $50 Belts $70 Dies $100

That's what I said. The outer layer isn't long enough to "come around" the curve, and the inner layer is too long to fit without buckling.

If there are no wrinkles in the hide when flat, but there are wrinkles from shaping, then either your inner layer is too long, or your outer layer is too short. Or both.

Oh, yeah -- and some small clicker dies I used to make mag pouches. Clean and sharp. And a 1 1/2" belt slot punch from Weaver. Used twice -- which might cause a guy to think it's sharp, but it's NOT, which is why it never got used. It arrived clean and shiny and dull all #$!@#!!

AND... 5 belt strips 1 1/2" wide by about 46" - 49" HO "B" grade natural tooling leather 8 oz. I'll get them out today, but if I remember right a couple had marks on the back from splitting. They are split evenly, with no irregularity in thickness, just visible - so makes no difference if you're lining them (which I do). They were put off to the side just because they were under 50" long, and now I have 5 (or was it 6?) just sitting in a spot where there should be nothing I think 5 strips... $70 includes the US shipping.

8/9 will work for that holster (I generally like 7/8, personally). I put mine under water for ... idunno.... maybe 10-15 seconds? Use a finger or a tool to open it up a bit.. be sure to get water INSIDE the holster. Really - seconds... As for "boning" or "forming", it's more important to have the INSIDE formed than the outside. A 'holster' which looks detailed, but doesn't securely contain the weapon, is a piece of junk. Not that it won't sell, -- junk is sold every day. Just not to me I'm not sure how your holster is "damp" after a whole day. Leather left out in the air will dry in that long.. unless you're talking about maybe damp from OIL instead of water...

I got three slings cut out... but clearance priced to - well - clear Good news -- they're quite reasonable. But you gotta take all three (otherwise, I'm not clearing). These are 8 oz A-grade HO, which I generally line with about a 4oz suede. Managed to get a spot of black ink on one of them, about where the top folds... work it in to the design or the color. Tooling leather only (suede liner not included). Includes extra piece from same hide for leather loop. $50 gets all 3 shipped within US. Pic later today....

A mark here and there is expected. But that -- I would simply return, with a comment about trying to make their problem become my problem will cost them ALL my business.

Hopefully the back isn't "pasted flesh".

That W/C drum dyed leather is not actually "finished" -- there is not "finish" on it.. just comes already dyed. Forms and firms up right nice like If you just barely dampen the surface of that leather (even now, long as there's no finish coat)... wait a few seconds (maybe 15-30?) it buffs up REAL purdy with a piece of old soft cloth (piece of an old t-shirt is the stuff).

Exactly --- that's all it is.. just a rubber spacer (washer). Order them, or cut them how thick you want them from a rubber hose (which, as I said, you can get in any auto parts store). Personally, I think they're a great way to go. Let the buyer set the tension to the level they want. But I dont' care for the one in the pic.. I want the tension in the BOTTOM end of the holster.... for a number of reasons...