JLSleather

If there are no wrinkles in the hide when flat, but there are wrinkles from shaping, then either your inner layer is too long, or your outer layer is too short. Or both.

Oh, yeah -- and some small clicker dies I used to make mag pouches. Clean and sharp. And a 1 1/2" belt slot punch from Weaver. Used twice -- which might cause a guy to think it's sharp, but it's NOT, which is why it never got used. It arrived clean and shiny and dull all #$!@#!!

AND... 5 belt strips 1 1/2" wide by about 46" - 49" HO "B" grade natural tooling leather 8 oz. I'll get them out today, but if I remember right a couple had marks on the back from splitting. They are split evenly, with no irregularity in thickness, just visible - so makes no difference if you're lining them (which I do). They were put off to the side just because they were under 50" long, and now I have 5 (or was it 6?) just sitting in a spot where there should be nothing I think 5 strips... $70 includes the US shipping.

8/9 will work for that holster (I generally like 7/8, personally). I put mine under water for ... idunno.... maybe 10-15 seconds? Use a finger or a tool to open it up a bit.. be sure to get water INSIDE the holster. Really - seconds... As for "boning" or "forming", it's more important to have the INSIDE formed than the outside. A 'holster' which looks detailed, but doesn't securely contain the weapon, is a piece of junk. Not that it won't sell, -- junk is sold every day. Just not to me I'm not sure how your holster is "damp" after a whole day. Leather left out in the air will dry in that long.. unless you're talking about maybe damp from OIL instead of water...

I got three slings cut out... but clearance priced to - well - clear Good news -- they're quite reasonable. But you gotta take all three (otherwise, I'm not clearing). These are 8 oz A-grade HO, which I generally line with about a 4oz suede. Managed to get a spot of black ink on one of them, about where the top folds... work it in to the design or the color. Tooling leather only (suede liner not included). Includes extra piece from same hide for leather loop. $50 gets all 3 shipped within US. Pic later today....

A mark here and there is expected. But that -- I would simply return, with a comment about trying to make their problem become my problem will cost them ALL my business.

Hopefully the back isn't "pasted flesh".

That W/C drum dyed leather is not actually "finished" -- there is not "finish" on it.. just comes already dyed. Forms and firms up right nice like If you just barely dampen the surface of that leather (even now, long as there's no finish coat)... wait a few seconds (maybe 15-30?) it buffs up REAL purdy with a piece of old soft cloth (piece of an old t-shirt is the stuff).

Exactly --- that's all it is.. just a rubber spacer (washer). Order them, or cut them how thick you want them from a rubber hose (which, as I said, you can get in any auto parts store). Personally, I think they're a great way to go. Let the buyer set the tension to the level they want. But I dont' care for the one in the pic.. I want the tension in the BOTTOM end of the holster.... for a number of reasons...

You can get them a number of places, or f you just need a couple -- from about any auto parts or hardware store (vacuum hose).

Yep -- these things are usually made to seal the bag, deliberately intending to PREVENT moisture escape. I've never used one, but I would think that could become painful... towards the back side of a guy...

What? We didn't like that example? Alrightey then... Try this... teh measurements on the holsters are the OUTside of the leather. In a perfect world, the INside of the holster would match the OUTside of the firearm. And the patterns are drawn to accomodate the OUTside of the gun, WITH the leather thickness specified. If you use leather noticeably heavier, it's much the same as using a thicker walled pipe. You can order 3" pipe, but the wall dimension (leather thickness) will dictate what fits through it. The two circles are the same size on the outside, but the thicker the material, the tighter the inside becomes.

I see we're still getting comments on this. Now, you KAINT be still on that "first holster' like the title says Just a 'sidebar' about leather thickness with my patterns (and this is about MY patterns -- I have no idea how them sensitive folks do it): These are made for a fairly narrow range of thickness. But should be fairly easy to 'adjust' and 'recover' for using a different thickness if you like. One guy - I think just to 'rib' me about it -- likes to use 8/9 for about everything. Fair enough, but keep in mind that pattern is intended for 7/8 leather, or 8 MAX. So if your leather is 9 0z, not a huge ordeal -- but you might put the line on the leather as normal, and then stitch down the outside of the line, instead of down the middle of the line. That should give you enough room for a similar fit. I'm talking about this (the red is your awl) ....

Good for you! Don't take anybody else's word for it -- TRY it and then you'll know. More people should take the "show me" attitude (we'd have less 'knowing' and more "doing" for starters )

Including the j-frame - 58,587 downloads. Shucks, you'd think they'd be more pics around here ..

This is a myth, and not even a particularly good one. I have a copy of stohlman's sewing book around here somewhere, and all due respect to Mr. Stohlman,.. TRUTH is: I have -- on more than one occasion -- made a mistake of some sort, and needed to remove the stitching put in by machine. After cutting the top AND bottom threads, I can tell you that it does not "fall out" or "unravel". Fact is, removing the thread -- though done by machine -- is a pain in the back, and requires that each stitch be "unlocked" .... not a 2-minute deal!

CAN be, but not necessarily. I've seen holsters with both belt slots AND loops (removable) so it would be used either way.

I always get a 'kick' outta them folks debating to use "leather" or "suede". Bazillion messages asking if holsters should be lined with suede. TIP: If you don't line your tooling leather holster, then the inside already IS "suede"

ADD STITCH LINE (NO NEED TO GO ALL THE WAY DOWN HERE) AND THEN SWAP THE CLIPS USING SAME HOLES

You're asking that rig to "come around" in the front, but that sittch line is a stress concentration point, causing it to bend at what has become its weak point. Now... how to fix ... If'n it was me, I'd try adding a stitch line (which I think is where Ron was going with it) PLUS swapping those "clips" for one another. Meaning put the front one on the back and the back one on the front. Which it would seem would work better on an IWB anyway Lemme see kin I mock up a pic...

I'm not getting it, either. I'm not sure how you would know, actually. I can see the benefit (NEED) for having sides from the same tannery batch, but from the same cow ... From the same run should give you consistent color (as much as is possible). Only thing that would be gained by getting both sides from ONE hide is perhaps buying the full hide (not cut into sides) which may give a little better "cutting economy".

Simple little holster for the small S/W revolvers available for download (Merry Christmas!). Fellas, if you paid for this one, say in the last month or so, send me a message about which one you'd like for your FREE replacement... kaint have one guy paying when the other guy gits it free .. http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-patterns-diy/

Yep, me too. I ASK when a customer orders a holster, what belt they are wearing (or perhaps they need one). I can "get over it" for 1/8" over, but I don't run 1 1/2" belt through 1 3/4" slots.... anybody who has ever needed to pull the pistol QUICKLY knows what we mean by "wiggle" "move" or "rock". Right there with ya again. Seems like about 14 oz-ish works real nice like.

Well, yah--- that's what I said. The speed and circumference of the pulley is the same at all times, so the "tension" on the belt is constant (after start-up). In teh "straightaway" ... there is tension, and in the bends, there is both tension and compression. And regardless of the direction (grain in or grain out) of the leather, the bend radius -- the part actually doing the "curve", is not the middle of the leather. BUT, the "tension" on teh belt is constant -- not increasing. Once it reaches full speed, the tension is not increased. Still, the belt will fail over time, even though the tension is not increased. But the question -- to get back to the original -- was concerning leather of the SAME thickness, either 1 layer or 2 adding up to the same thickness. Personally, I think : 1.) Big Souix makes a great point above about putting holes in leather (or anything really). 2.) This entire thing will go the way of that thing about Photoshop "brushes" for stamping tools.. lots of words, no action.

Your conclusion seems backwards. The compression forces are "negligible" damage to the grain (pulley) side due to the flesh side's lack of resistance to stretch. In short, the outside stretches more, so there is less compression of the inner radius fibers. Or, to say the same thing another way, the grain side is less prone to stretch (increasing the compression if you put it on the outside). We've all known about this for a good while. Making a belt? Then most know that you need to moisten the grain of the leather to make the bend. BUT, the sueded side is bent all the time with no apparent damage -- apparent the key word here. Basically, the test you quote confirms that the grain layer is "stronger" (less likely to separate willingly).