gregintenn

Beautiful work!

Looks good, Lobo. I want to make some of those cartridge holders for high powered rifle cartridges as well. I like the way that one looks.

I like it!

Yeah. I meant the ends. I'm not a fan of rivets.

I knew you guys would come through for me! Thanks. One could sew the two ends of the cartridge loop strap if they so desired, right?

On a western style belt, I believe I can do all the necessary work except for sewing the cartridge loops. This appears very tedious to me. I only hand stitch. Do any of you have any tricks or tips for doing this? Thanks, Greg

I'm lucky. Nearly everyone around here has firearms. The usual reponse I recieve when someone leasrns that I make holsters is "Cool! Could you make me a .............?"

http://s612.photobucket.com/albums/tt209/gregintenn/Holster%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0746.jpg http://s612.photobucket.com/albums/tt209/gregintenn/Holster%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_0639.jpg http://s612.photobucket.com/albums/tt209/gregintenn/Holster%20Project/?action=view&current=IMG_3108.jpg

I don't care for your maker's mark being visible while being worn, but I love the holster!

I dye the inside of my holsters, and haven't had any problem with bleeding.

I've been satisfied with the results of using gum tragacanth and hand burnishing with a Sharpie marker. I apply the gum trag to the edge, and rub it with the side of the marker until smooth. i keep going all the way around the holster doing this. By the time I get back to where I started, the gum is dry enough that I can rub a little harder with the marker to bring the edge to a slick, shiny finish. It takes a little time, but I'm a hobbyist. I'd seek a quicker method were I trying to make a living at it. I'm guessing your wood dowel isn't hard or slick enough. You also could be turning it too fast. I've heard of people using wheels made from micarta or some sort of hard plastic in drill motors. I've not tried it myself.

Not sure what style you are looking for, but I swear by Jim's tutorial here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19338. You do not need to mold these holsters to get a good fit. They look great and are easy to make as well.

I'd want the sweat shield to be only the size of the slide, and the cant would be backward for me, as I like a forwad cant. Other than that, I really like the holster. As the previous poster said, that is a fine belt as well!

Wouldn't a normal human being simply post a link? I thought we were here to help each other; not tear each other down.

I believe that several of us simply want to know how common this type of occurance is.

Lawyers cost money, as does insurance. For a hobbyist like myself, and probably several more on here, it would not be feasible to purchase insurance and legal counsel to sell an occasional holster. It is a shame that the United States has gotten to the point where the work is the easiest part of earning a dollar.

Has anyone here ever faced liability charges related to a holster they've sold?

Thank you, K Man, for taking the time to share your insight.

Fair enough. I don't claim to begin to have the knowledge or skill most of you have. I answered the OP's question with the benefit of the limited experience I've had. As I get most of the retention around the triggerguard and slide area, The other pistols aren't exactly "floating around". You do bring up a very interesting point I've pondered about a safety issue. I wonder if there are any holster makers who've had to defend themselves against any type of liability lawsuit. Do you who are professionals carry liability insurance?

I like the first one!

I've sold at least 20 standard pancake holsters molded to a Colt Gold Cup, with the bottom open, to guys who carry a wide array of different sized 1911's in them and have had nothing but positive feedback as to the retention and performance of my holsters. Your experience may vary. I offer a full moneyback guarantee if you aren't satisfied for any reason, and have yet to have any takers.

I usually just put on a standard, inexpensive buckle in either brass or nickle finish. Tandy sells them for a few bucks a piece. Some like them; I do, but I figure the rest will discard them and buy what they want.

Point well taken. I am a hobbiest.

I punch two 3/16" holes 1.5" apart, center to center. I then draw two straight lines from the outer edges of the top hole to the outer edge of the bottom hole. I then cut along the lines with a hobby knife. Probably not the most efficient way, but it works for me, and those punches are expensive!

I was going to quit making holsters until next winter. You've given me an idea that probably won't wait till then. I really like it!