impulse

It is a common problem that rulers slip. In cutting straps from a new hide, I must first start with a perfectly straight edge. I solve the ruler slip by clamping each end of my 1mtr long steel rule over the leather onto my cutting bench, using standard woodworking clamps. The sharpest tool to use and easiest to guide along the ruler is a surgical scalpel. These are quite inexpensive and usually available from eBay. For cutting square shapes use a steel set square (again clamped) to get accurate angle. If the leather is thin, stabilize it by temporarily lining the back with self adhesive shelf lining. Any residual adhesive can be removed with white spirits. Hope this helps.

Thanks for your help Andy. So I guess the only way to make the belt adjustable is to add a buckle to the center(back) of the belt? Lois

I have been making leather belts for some years now, but have never worked with this type of buckle. It is a celtic buckle which hooks together in the middle. On the back rhere are 2 prongs on each half, but no way that I can see of adjusting the length of the belt. HELP any one please! Lois

May dampen the sound of tapping - it's the agonized groans of the tapee that needs deadening!

I have recently read Nick's book - he is incredibly inspirational!!!!!!!!! Lois

Sorry for the slow reply - I don't log on every day! How much you dress your saddlebag will depend on how supple you want it. Warmed Dubbin would be fine - just make sure it isn't too hot. A short burst in a microwave will do the trick. I would be inclined to use normal leather dressing on both sides and after it has worked in to your satisfaction, apply a waterproofing wax to the outside as it is bound to get wet on your bike at some stage. Use something like this: http://www.nikwax-usa.com/en-gb/products/productdetail.php?productid=499 Lois

Just catching up with this thread .... Actually painters masking tape CAN be used! The type needed is Scotch blue. Adhesive residue can be avoided by removing the tape as soon as possible after dying. If there is any residue, wait until your dye is completely dry, then carefully wipe with a little Eucalyptus oil on a rag. If this is unattainable use a small drop of White Spirits. Wipe rather than rub if it is on a previously dyed area, so as to not remove the dye. Enjoy your new hobby! Lois

These steel stamps are totally suitable for properly cased leather. I have a maker's stamp, but any other ID required is better on the reverse side of your work. For this I use a wood-burning iron, as stamping on the flesh side will sometimes leave marks on the top. Lois

Hey Will, I find it interesting that your tests showed that dampening the leather before applying water-based stain increased penetration. An old time saddler friend (now deceased) used to stain bridles etc by immersing the leather for 15 mins in warm water into which he had added the stain. The uptake of colour was even and completely absorbed into the leather right through the entire thickness. He would then wipe off the excess moisture and allow to naturally dry to about casing point. Conditioner made up of 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax was rubbed in well and allowed to dry the rest of the way. Vigorous buffing produced a wonderful glow to the finished product. No sealers needed. This method was used on top-of-the-line English show bridles etc. Stains in powdered form are possibly best and cheapest to use for this method and the remaining mix left over can be bottled up to use for future projects. He also recommended dunking leather hardened by sweat and mud into warm water before scrubbing with saddle soap or glycerine soap and conditioning as above. Just make sure the conditioner is applied before the leather dries out completely or it will go quite hard. BTW do not use artificial heat (hair dryers, convection heaters, ovens) to dry leather, just natural sunlight or not- too-hot central heating in the winter months. Lois from downunder

I melted down some old lead into a square mold 12" x 12". It is kindest of all on your punches, yet gives a solid backing. When it is too marked, I simply re-melt it. Lasts forever! Lois

If you want a coarser than sandpaper effect, I would use a meat mallet with both fine or larger faces. Lois

You could try oxalic acid solution to bleach out the leather, but I'm not sure what damage the oven has done to your leather. You will find this in most hardware stores and is used to bleach wood and often listed as a rust and stain remover. I can't help you with brand names in your country, but in Australia it is made by "Diggers". It is a very mild acid and will not harm the leather as long as you oil or condition afterwards. It's useful also to get rid of any dirty finger marks or stains on any leather. "So in the future I should just warm up the oil? Slather it all on, wipe off the extra, and then let it dry? Repeat the desired darkness?" - Yes you've got it! If you want a very light stain try wiping with a used tea bag. Cheers Lois

Don't EVER put leather in a oven! Warming leather means leaving it in the sun for a short period. It is preferable to warm the oil or stain or whatever by placing the bottle in a container of boiling water. How long depends on the size of your bottle, but when it reaches a warm temperature it should stay evenly warm enough to complete your job. I don't know whether you can rescue this project or whether you have actually damaged the leather. You may have to stain it dark brown or black to make it useable. The joys of leaning by experience! Good luck with it, Lois

Lovely looking collar! The only thing that worries me, for the dog's comfort, is the size of the buckle. Can I suggest that it may have been better to make it "ranger belt" style using a smaller buckle? Lois

Thanks for your approval. I pretty much try DIY with anything. This is my first attempt at upholstery - I tend to draw myself a plan, then work it out using paper or cheap fabric to make sure that my ideas will work. I had no sample to work from, so the button studded seat took a bit of trial and error. There is no-one in my state that does fine scrolls and pin striping on the paint work, so I just practiced on scrap timber and found acrylic paint much more forgiving than enamel. Here's a sample of this:

There is no way to stop the edges of woven fabric other than hemming it. I would suggest that you use craft felt which is quite thin and comes in a wide range of colours. Lois

The chuck will take tools up to 1/2" diameter, which makes it very versatile - so the answer is YES! Lois

Thanks Rohn Lois

What I don't like about Arbor presses is that the height is not adjustable. I tried using a drill press, but the disadvantage here is that the chuck can rotate, upsetting the alignment for continuous stamping. Then I had an idea! I found an old Black and Decker electric drill stand, similar to photo 1 I modified it by, in place of the drill, fitting 3/4" galv pipe threaded at the base to take an old chuck from a hand brace - this will take all diameter stamp handles, yet will not move when tightened on to the stamp (photo 3) A guide for leather straps etc is made from acrylic and is adjustable via 2 wing nuts (photo2) The last pic shows closeup of the result using this press. It works beautifully and cost me a total of $7 for the old drill stand and chuck.

Thanks for your positive comments! The project took me about 3 months of spasmodic work. Cost me about $2,000 for bits and pieces, but was gratified to be offered $17,000 for it at the first Harness Show that I attended. Amor, I am not an upholsterer, so I don't quite get the suggestion you made - can you explain a little clearer please? The seat is adjustable back and forth on a brass slide, by winding the brass handle that is center/front - I can't interfere with this. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Lois

I found a 1896 Sydney Brass sulky in a sad state, but complete, and set out to restore it. I'm actually showing off the leather upholstery here, but I did the entire restoration myself. This entailed stripping it down to the axles, sanding back everything usable, replacing timber bits, 7 coats of spray paint and finally the fine-line scroll work. The origonal brass came up a treat - this vehicle was the "Rolls Royce" of its day! BTW guys - this is a woman's work and my first effort at this type of undertaking. Hope you like it. Lois

What a beautiful bag! Your work is exquisite, with great design and perfect stitching - it must have taken you forever to make. The only critique that I can make is using basketweave on the handle. This pattern is not used elsewhere and doesn't seem to fit in with your design. Hope you don't mind me pointing this out. Regards Lois

For all those new to leatherwork, I have come across this site for a comprehensive lacing book. I think it was origionaly published by Tandys. Go to : http://www.scribd.co...r-Leather-Craft Cheers Lois

Soft leather like nubuck is easier to handle if you first glue your edges together. It can also be sewn with an ordinary household sewing machine using a leather needle. Your query is a little vague, so I hope this helps. Lois

Thanks BIGGUNDOCTOR. I'm off to my local steel supplier to pick his brains (he is also an engineer). Seems to be a lot of interest in this, so I'll keep posting with final plans, pics and costs as I go. Lois