impulse

An old upholstery trick is to very carefully use a heat gun on the wrinkled area (for thin leather only). The leather will shrink to mold around the steering wheel. Then apply some leather dressing. Because different parts of a hide are more stretchy than some, nearly all complicated upholstery jobs need to apply this technique. Cheers, Lois

Kangaroo leather is my choice for inner parts of wallets. It is thin but extremely strong and the flesh side is very smooth. Cheers Lois

Hi Atom1 If the back of the leather is too rough usually indicates a 2nd grade piece. If the top looks good this can still be made quite usable by gluing and sewing thin leather on the back. This improves the appearance greatly as well as eliminating any stretching which is common with poorer grade leather. Gum trag and/or burnishing does not prevent distortion or stretch. Hope this helps. Lois

Very neat design! I personally like an apron a little longer, so can't wait to see your next effort. Cheers Lois

I frequently line belts to give a smoother finish to the inside, however I always then sew the layers. After bevelling and burnishing the edges it is impossible to see where the layers join. You have done a good job with your belts but because the layers are clearly visible, for me they look "unfinished", though very strong looking. How did you attach the buckles - are they stitched or riveted?

I also would advise using Rare earth magnets, one on each matching surface. Recently I came across an ebay seller in Hong Kong which sells these with a hole in the middle that can be simply attached with a rivet. Inexpensive and with free delivery. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271930236395?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thor - You advised against using my method but I don't think that Diana wants to hand sew! If the wire guide method is used there is no reason why she couldn't still glue the core by adding craft glue to the rope as it is pulled through. I have been sewing leather for 50 yrs and have learned many tricks over this time. Please don't dismiss an idea that you have not tried. Cheers Lois

Using a home sewing machine, the best option is to carefully measure and mark where your stitching needs to be, then REMOVE the rope. Replace this with some fine wire, leaving a loop on the end. With the wire in place (where the rope should lie) stitch along the marked line then attach the wire loop to the rope and pull through. Then trim excess leather. Cheers Lois

Check out this topic- Coping with a small workshop http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66403

ARFFGuy Another option for a hammering surface is to obtain a granite slab for tooling and get some cheap cork tiles to lay on top for using the pricking irons. This absorbs the sound as well as protects the points of the tool when punching holes. Cheers Lois

crandom I have converted a tubing flaring tool simply by filing the holes smooth. Works very well. Cheers, Lois

Hi Skipndance How lucky are you inheriting your mum's tools and supplies! Condolences on her passing, particularly before she had time to pass on her knowledge. Just a query on your plans - why are you using carpet on your work bench? Cheers, Lois

Not a bad effort for first time! More practice needed on the stitching, as on looking closely there are some minor "wobbles". Did you use a stitching wheel or punches? Something to help you make straight lines is definitely a worthwhile investment, and relatively cheap to buy. Keep at it - it takes a while. Cheers' Lois

hi Skipndance - good to see another female considering setting up a workshop! I also had to keep costs down, so everything is re-purposed treasures from others' trash. As much shelving as you can fit in is the best advice. Post your plans and I am sure that the helpful folks on this website will guide you wisely. Cheers, Lois

Very good effort, especially made from scraps! The one critism I have is that the strap is a bit too "chunky" for the size bag. A narrower strap would be more in proportion. Lucky daughter! Cheers, Lois

Bunkhouse Tools (http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/Embossing-Wheels_c3.htm) has a HUGE selection of embossing wheels at very reasonable prices. They are polyurethane rather than brass, and the web page states that they are only made exclusively for the Bunkhouse Embossing machine. However they have the same internal diameter as the Tandy embosser; you just need to check the overall sizes and you should find some to fit. I have used these wheels for some time and they leave a very crisp imprint provided that your leather is properly cased. You should also check out their Mini Embosser which takes the smaller brass wheels from Tandy (http://www.tandyleather.com.au/en/product/craftool-pro-embossing-wheel-leaf), currently 8 designs and http://www.tandyleather.com.au/en/product/craftool-embossing-wheels,6 designs. Cheers, Lois

I agree with Tinker - I just use a burnisher which has a tapered point for holes and slots. Try here: http://www.leatherburnishers.com

I have always used a neatsfoot / beeswax / parafin wax mixture in the 60/40 ratiio, but in addition use a few drops of eucalyptus oil which prevents mould. Lois

Hey Don Like your idea as I not only have hands crippled with arthritis, but I have no feeling in my fingers following a brain aneurysm bleed. My best friend is small needle nosed pliers which I always carry in my pocket. Small modifications that I made are in using T-nuts both front and back of the clamping blocks, and 5/16" threaded rod rather than bolts. I screwed and glued old wooden drawer knobs on one end and small rubber "feet" on the clamp end. Scrap rubber rather than leather used as lining the vice "jaws" as I felt it would be easier to wipe clean. Everything came from my box of stuff that "might come in handy one day". Thank you for allowing us to copy your very useful design! Cheers, Lois

Hey Big Can you please tell me where you purchased that octopus buckle? Best one that I've seen yet!

I think that you will find that any conditioner with beeswax has a high percentage of oils in it - usually neatsfoot - to make it creamy and spreadable. I always add a few drops of eucalyptus oil to mine as this helps prevent mould in leather.

When gluing layer for a belt, make sure you have them over a curved surface around the same bend as a person's waist.

Over the years i have tried most glues, but recently discovered a fast bonding PVA glue made by Selleys. It is easy to use, dries clear and any excess can be wiped away with a damp cloth. Quote description:"Aquadhere QuickSet is a non-toxic, quick setting PVA wood glue suitable for all types of wood. It will bond almost anything your craftwork calls for, yet sets twice as fast compared to standard PVA’s and requires no clamping" I don't know if this is available outside Australia, but maybe Titebond has the equivalent in the US.

pcox idea of using a ramp is feasible, but these machines are very heavy with a lot of the weight in the flywheel. You will need a winch or block and tackle to transfer to your pickup. Removing the flywheel could be an option that works. My CB4500 was delivered in one big crate to a depot and fork lifted onto my truck. When I got it home, I had to demolish the crate and unload all table, motor etc first. The head was too heavy for 1 person to manage. If it is not too late, I think Colts suggestion of having it delivered to where there is a fork lift is probably the most sensible, particularly as you have a bad back. BTW you have chosen a great machine - i have used mine to sew 3/4" thickness down to very thin leather just by using the appropriate size needles and thread. For belts, get a foot which makes a stitching groove for the thread as it sews! Makes for a very professional job. Best of luck with this, Lois

Kangaroo!! It is thin, extremely strong yet firm - I wouldn't contemplate using anything else.