billymac814

For the straps you can do it kind of like a suspender style. It would be more comfortable than a loop around the neck. Strap works. Com sells everything for that, you can add some elastic in it to give a little relief as well. Check out Duluth trading, they have an apron made that way. I have everything to do it as that's how I was going to make my shop apron but I haven't ever got around to making it yet. You can get Kevlar thread that won't burn. You can get it from the thread exchange website in small amounts.

It doesn't look like veg tan leather, that could be why the molding isn't helping. I can't tell though as I'm on my phone. I'd also add that I'd be careful with wet molding using the actual iPad, I'd doesn't take much moisture for the iPad to absorb it and even if it doesn't cause any noticeable problems it could be enough to change the moisture strip inside which will void the warranty if something else happens even if its an unrelated problem. I'd either make a form out of plywood if I were making several or I'd wrap the iPad up very well. I'd second adding a strap on this one, I'm not sure of any other way to salvage this one. It may help on future ones to slightly taper the pattern so that's its just a tad wider at the opening, that may prevent the flaring issue. As far as your edges separating it is the glue you're using, its probably a water based glue. Use a good contact cement and it will never separate.

Glad to hear the press is working out. Motors are pretty easy to come by, I'd definitely try to find one with mounting brackets, most do but this one happened to not and I was too impatient to wait any longer and I thought the bracket from my other one might work but it didn't. On my old set up I had a foot control so it was really hands free, I didn't put it on this because the one I have is a momentary switch, I may get a latching one and use it. Using a cordless drill sounds like a bit of a pain. I originally used a drill press then just a motor. When I burned up the first motor I did use a drill for a little while but I had a bracket that mounted it to a bench and I used the foot control and it worked ok, it was obviously a corded type drill though. You could always stick your drill in a vise in the mean time.

You might have to settle for coffee. I do lack a stove. That's one toy I don't have

I do have my share of toys, I doubt ill ever have enough toys though. If you're ever in the area feel free to stop by

I really like the small round keychains. I think more people, ecspecially guys would rather have a smaller one, the big ones you normally see are really too big I think. He's been doing a pretty good job. The conchos are a little tough getting them perfectly centered, he messed up a few and on top of that not all of them have the post centered which makes it even tougher. I gave about 40-50 away with my stamp on it with the orders that have gone out recently. It doesn't take long to put one together, I don't go crazy on the edges, I hit them on my felt wheel with some black Yankee wax on it and that's good enough for these, I may have a minute in each one and maybe 15-20 cents each so its not bad. I don't think I'll give one away in every order but for certain customers I will. I have a feeling ill be getting a 1.5" round punch at some point to continue these.

I made the dust shield today, it was a fairly simple ordeal but should at least minimize the dust a little bit or at least concentrate it to one spot instead of all over. I secured it with snaps just in case its ever in the way ill be able to easily remove it.

I think they look great, ecspecially compared to the other hybrid holsters of this type. Most that I've seen do not bother finishing or edging the leather at all, ecspecially the largest manufacturer of this style of holster. I also disagree with that being the wrong clip for the job, while it can be sewn into another piece and used that way there is nothing wrong with using them like that, that bump is just one more thing to help lock it on the belt, its no different than if it were stitched in as it functions exactly the same. There's also nothing better available. There's shorter ones without the bump but on a tuckable holster they don't allow much room to tuck. My thought when he asked if they were lined was only referring to the leather portion, like is the leather panel two layers of leather stitched together so its smooth on both sides. I'd assume so and that's why its stitched. I've never been a huge fan of kydex but I see its place in the holster world. Its also very rare that I get to see kydex holsters that look good so that has a lot to do with it. I have on request made a few that look similar but are all leather but it has never been one that I turned into a production model.

The belt is a good idea. I've been blowing through them pretty quickly giving them away with orders. My son has made some keychains as well, here's a picture of the ones he made, the belt piece in the picture is a sample of the stamps he can put on them, I just posted the same picture on my FB page.

Ohio travel bag has them.

Buying them from Rob has simplified my life and process so much. It used to be a search for a gun then I'd order one and hope that it came in a reasonable time. Rob has come through every times and always very quickly. You can see whats available in stock which ships roght away and whats not. The longest it normally takes is 10 days. His website has become a useful tool as well as its easy to see what is available

Here's my only advice. Whatever you think its going to cost times that by 1.5 or 2. That's a pretty big job and its easy to forget alot of the time that will be spent. If he's looking for you to do it in "your spare time" that either means he's looking for it on the cheap or he's ok with you taking your time and fitting it in, if that's the case you may be better off doing an hourly rate on a project this large that you've never done before. If think a job like that with tooling and lacing would be in the 2 k range at least. Also if you use seat covers as a template make sure they fit first and if need be do some alterations to them to get a nice fit, some of them fit on tha baggy side depending on the size of the seat. You may even want to make it a smudge small so that the elk skin will stretch over for a nice tight fit, baggy won't look good in leather. If it were me I'd be inclined to stitch it and do an appliqué lacing, I can't say for sure but it would be a consideration.

Ill order a belt the next time I place an order at McMaster Carr. I don't get to Tractor supply too often and I don't recall seeing the clogged ones there. Thanks again for the info

I may be interested in the burnishing wheel setup, are you planning to make them work with the thing that heats them up just like the edge irons? I have thought about making a rounded groove in some of my edge irons and using them but never got around to it since I already had a decent burnisher setup. I have a more modern one although its still old. Mine has seperate motors for each section. I'm going to be replacing it this year for a more modern one with sanding belts.

Thanks, that looks like it would make it more flexible too which might be a good thing. I have a big sheet of kydex that I don't use much, I might use that as the guard. I noticed the older weaver setup has a guard but the one in their catalog doesn't. Its handy having the sanding drum right here to use. In my old shop I had a belt sander near by and used it but the new shop I've been using my finisher its not as close by, not a big deal when I'm doing larger runs but for the occasional use this will be handy to have right at my bench.

There's no where to put any more screws, I could put a filler block under it and get screws a little farther out past where the table ends. Its very slight though, it was more pronounced before I screwed it to the table, now its just the very end and hardly noticeable. I don't foresee me wearing this out any time soon but next time I will get the one with bearings. I assumed this one had bearings and the other one had heavier bearings by the way it was worded. As soon as it starts to wobble ill replace it. Are those belts you're talking about the same width and are they as heavy and stiff as this one? I just picked this up at tractor supply along with the pulley, I didn't pay much attention to it other than the 1/2 wide part and picked a length I thought would work. One other thing I may do is put a shield behind the sanding drum to keep some of the sawdust from flying around everywhere. I'd rather it end up on the floor than the bench.

The belt really isn't tight at all as you can tell from the pictures, the end curves up very slightly even with the loose tension. Theres no real way of getting it too tight as its impossible to get the belt on, this was as tight as i could get it and still work it on. I think if it was a thinner belt it would be easier to get on but this thing is really thick and not too flexible at all, its different than the thinner belts on sewing machines where its fairly easy to walk them onIt doesn't slip and the curve of the board is so slight(maybe 1/8") that I'm not concerned with it but if I was doing it again I'd still extend the 2x4s back farther to make it more rigid. I also only had a short piece of a 2x4 laying around so I was using what I had. I'm not pressing that hard, if I was it would actually tighten the belt. This definitely just has bushings, it does have two holes on the top, are these oil holes? It doesn't mention oil or anything in the instructions it came with. I'm not too concerned really, if for some reason I have a problem Ill replace it with one with bearings The motor is 1/3 hp, so were the other two I've been using but those two were both used and quite old motors so its hard to say what kind of life they had and if I burned them out. The one is still fine but the start up (capacitor?) no longer works so I had to spin it to start it, I didn't want to do that anymore with this one. This motor is off of a sump pump which already had a switch on it so I didn't have to worry about a switch. I haven't used it yet other than to test it to make sure the belt didn't slip, I'll report back if there's any issues but I don't foresee having any major issues.

This thing is basically the same setup as an old fashioned grinder that you'll often see at flea markets and hard sales, someone could always start off with those too. If I was doing this again I would run my 2x4s back farther towards the motor, I'm finding that the board is flexing enough because of the tension of the belt if it wasn't hanging off the edge I could screw it down and that would solve it but I wanted it hanging off to make it easier to do belts

Ill let you know if I trade it in, that way you can deal directly through Bob as he'd be able to ship it easier than I would unless you're able to pick it up. Where do you live at?

They come up quite often in the for sale section. There was a whole setup of an almost brand new Cobra for 2k. Not a bad deal considering it costs 2700 for the same package new. I don't know if its still there but it would be worth checking.

Thanks for the info, I was considering playing around with the speed, the reason I chose to go with the 1750 is mainly because that's what the Weaver one was set to, I don't think I'd want to double it but if I could go about 1/2" bigger on the pulley that would probably be good. The belt isn't as tight as I'd have hoped however I don't get any slippage so I didn't worry about it, otherwise I was thinking about making some sort of hinge on the back of the motor with a screw type adjustment in the front to give me a little adjustment, Ill look into the clogged type belt though. Lee Valley also sells one with the sealed bearings, I should have probably got that one, this one just has bushings, I didn't realize that when ordering it. Would grease cups still be a good idea? I did put a few drops of oil in the holes. This stuff isn't my area of expertise so I'm pretty much winging it here with stuff I had laying around. Also I bought that motor and it didn't have any mounting brackets on it and none of the ones I had would work so that's why I had to make up my own, it would be much easier to buy one with mounting brackets. It really just screws together, its not that difficult, if you decide to do it and have questions of where to get the parts let me know and I'll direct you to where I got it.

Unfortunately that's not an option, one side is left hand thread. It won't hurt me though as there's a machine right beside it so its not anywhere I walk.

Here's my finished burnisher/sander I put together today. I've been wanting the one weavers sells for a while now but its expensive and I was afraid that the large diameter burnisher part wouldn't work on a lot of my inside curves. Prior to this I had my wooden burnisher mounted directly to a motor, this allows me to add a sanding drum and it keeps the pressure off of the motor shaft as I went through 2 motors that way. I can't say for sure that's why they went bad though. The motor I found at a flea market since my old one was hand start only as of lately and the other piece I got from Lee Valley. The sanding drum is one I had that mounts in a drill chuck, I removed the mandrel and drilled it out to fit over the shaft. The wood burnisher I've had for a few years now and below that is felt disks sandwiched between two washers, its good for creating heat and melting wax onto the edge. I also had the chuck as its what was on my motor. I have about 60 bucks or so invested not counting what I already had, it would cost about 100-150 if you had to buy everything to put it together, the biggest variable is the motor as they can be found for 10-15 bucks or bought new for 100+. Either way its significantly cheaper than the 500.00 Weaver one, the Weaver one is a lot nicer looking but that's not a big concern.

Also your reinforced mouth is doing nothing to help it stay open the way it is. It needs to wrap around to offer any reinforcement.

Why don't you give bob a call and see what he has available used, it would be serviced and ready to sew. I was considering trading mine in when he gets the 227r back in stock, if I do then mine would be a good choice. It has seen very little use.ill have to see when he expects them in or if he already got them in.