joet

Lucky you. I know several people have approached him to put out a book with his patterns and pictures, but so far he hasn't done anything with it as far as I know. If he did put out a book, I'd be one of the first ones in line to get it. When I started leather crafting back in the early 70's, there were two names that were always mentioned; Al Stohlman was one and Al Shelton was the other. Stohlman was good in his own way, but I always felt that the other Al always had a story to tell about what he was making. Other names were also dropped, like Ken Griffen and F.O. Baird, but it was the two Al's that were featured in "Make It With Leather". I was really disappointed when Bill Ries took over the magazine after it folded and didn't have any more of the Al Shelton articles featured.

I feel sick about this. I didn't know Mr. Shelton, but I read every one of his articles he wrote for the "Make It With Leather" magazine. The man is fantastic and a walking history lesson and some dude probably wanting money for drugs, broke in and broke his heart. His article on how he did one of his buckles was really interesting. The used the lost wax method, at least I think that's what it was called. He would also mention off handedly who all in Hollywood he made things for. Wish I could be there for his birthday bash coming up, but I think it might be a little subdued affair.

Saw that on the news. Most interesting and exciting at the same time. Wonder if they'll ever find it's mate. Too bad we don't have a time machine to go back and see how the hide (and it was a cow too) was tanned.

Cool. Are you going to make these for sale? and if so, what would be the price range? I know someone else who makes pens with wood coverings, as well as leather, but I've never seen one with a .50cal casing.

I have to agree with what has been said concerning the difference between Sheridan and IFOLG. One thing that was not brought up is that IFOLG is open to leather guilds only, which means if you belong to a guild and that guild belongs to IFOLG then you can go to it and participate. Sheridan on the other hand is open to anyone who has an interest in leather. I try to hit both shows as much as I can because they are both a lot of fun to attend, and you get to rub shoulders with leather people. Another place to go to is Wickenburg, AZ in the early spring/late winter. I've never been to it, but it has the potential to be another Sheridan show.

Paul burnett has a good selection of books on stamping. His web site is: http://paintingcow.com/content/ and you can get the whole set for not a whole lot of money. There is also an e-book on the Tandy web site http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/ebooks/ebooks.aspx that has a couple of books you might be interested in. George Hurst's books on Stamping, Step Two has many different ideas in it. But the books by Paul show you how to set up to do many things. Happy stamping.

You mentioned antique. Some of the very first coloring of an item 35+ years ago was using the antique paste from Fiebings. Loved it so much that the paste goes on almost everything I do. I use the tan color the most, but have started to branch out to the Sheridan brown and found a source for it on line. I have some of the antique gel from Tandy but have not tried it yet; but I have seen the results of somebody elses labor and I like what I see. It's just that I haven't worked my courage to try it yet. Now that I'm teaching classes to kids in our 4-H program I'll have to break down and learn how to apply it so I can show it to them. Using a spirit dye on a project and then applying the antique will really enhance the designs. It will change the color of the dye, but it is usually for the good, not the bad. The magic word is "experiment". Keep all scraps of leather to practice coloring and how to use new tools. And don't throw away those screwed up pieces of leather. They can be used for practice; or as a reminder not to do that again. Wish you the best in your search for an inexpensive replacement for what had at one time been a handy source of supply.

I'm not Clay B, and I can only speak from experience or from what I've read. Most of the work I've done on background dyeing I would use a spirit (alcohol base) dye, which allows the leather to show. Some water based paint will also show the leather if it's thinned enough as to make it more of a 'wash' than anything else. I haven't really done much work with the new Eco-Flo products from Tandy, but from what I have used it doesn't cover up the fibers of the leather. Experiment and see what works.

Sorry to hear about your local leather store closing, we here in the States had the same problem several years ago when Tandy decided to go warehouse only. Lucky for us that the stores re-opened as some leather people were giving up with their hobby. Your question will receive many answers, and so this is my suggestion. Dyeing the background on many designs really brings out the tooling. Another thing to think about is using a antique paste, or gel; as well as using something like a Hi-Liter. It all depends on the design, the artist, the buyer, and the latest trend. Sometimes dyeing a flower completely will add beauty to the design, and other times it will detract from it. Probably the best method would be to buy paint/dye and experiment. Getting the coloring books will help you also make up your mind about any given design or project. If you can't get the dye or paint from your local leather store, try going to a store that carries art supplies. Most acrylic paint works on leather. Hope you get many more answers than mine. Best of luck to you in your search to improve your craft.

Those are good lights too. My wife uses one for her sewing and crochet, and I have one on my work bench, but seeing as how I can't get downstairs much, I use the tec-light. I really use them when I'm away from home at a show or giving demo's.

The tec-light is expensive, but I've found it to be really helpful for my use. I also have the full spectrum light mentioned and I find it alright too. The tec-light comes with a magnifier attachment that really helps when doing close up work, and they come in various lenses. I got my light at the IFoLG show and the magnifier came with it, if you order off the internet it might be more expensive. Some of my guild members use lights that attach to the head very much like the tec-light, but with different configuration of light. These can be found at Wally World or Sears for about $5.00, but the ones I looked at do not have the adjustable light, so the head is constantly being moved to find the right angle to focus the light on the project. That's just my opinion, and maybe that's the way you might want to go. What works for one person, might not work for someone else. The guild members in question like what they have, so who am I to say otherwise. Hope you find what works for you. Test out several things and see how they work.

Many thanks for explaining about "Pandora" as it's not known around my neck of the woods; at least not by me anyway. Your humor sounds like mine; don't know it that's a good thing or not, but it keeps me alive.

I'll bet that got you into the dog house for sure.

The above mentioned tool makers are the main Sheridan tool people. Bob Beard specializes in the figure carving tools, but he also has a line of geometric (basket weave) that people rave about. The only problem with his line of tools is the price, which is rather on the steep side; but he is about a year behind on his work. But ..... the tools are well worth the wait and the price. I've been lucky and he just happened to have what I am looking for when ever I see him at the different shows that I go to. I'm not really sure about any other maker as my work is usually figure carving and Sheridan. I'm sure there are other tool makers out there that are worth buying tools from.

You might try using what the doctors use - a scalpel. Hide Crafters located in Texas carries them for not a whole lot of money. Go to: http://www.hidecrafter.com/hci/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=203&category_id=82&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=35 and check it out. I think they also carry replacement blades. I've used one for years and have had really good luck cutting those fine details for filagree.

Welcome to a very exciting world of leather crafting. I think that once you've tried it, and did a good job on whatever project you have in mind, that you will be on the way to being a leather addict. The Tandy website contains 22 free videos on many aspects of leather crafting. While they don't show how to make a pouch, if viewed and all the information gathered from them, you are on your way to knowing how to do something. There are also three books put out by Tandy on how to make leather cases. All are excellent books to have and show how to make many things and give hints and tips on sewing, stitching and what not. Also, Hide Crafters (http://www.hidecrafter.com/hci/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1&Itemid=22) carry videos for sale that are also an excellent source for making things. As far as work space, well, right now I'm sharing with my wife the kitchen counter. One corner for me, three corners for her. It does make life interesting.

I usally get their tooling sides in russet color. I only make an order about once a year as being a hobbiest I don't go through lots and lots of leather. I've always had good luck with what they send me and have no complaints about the service. I've dealt with the other places I mentioned above and they also have been very helpful. I don't buy sides from Tandy any more since I've discovered W & C unless it's something I need right away, like lining leather. Don't worry about the terminology, I've been doing this hobby for over 30 years and I still haven't got it all figured out.

I deal with W & C all the time, but I only order by the sides and they will split them to my order for free, but I didn't know they did any double shoulders. Try Siegel of California. Their web site is: https://www.siegelofca.com/default.asp. Or try http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/ and see what they have. Wish you luck in your search.

I'm glad to see that you are brave enough to make the change happen. Many people know they have to change their life, but do not have the courage to do so. For the sake of family and friends, may God's hand guide you to do the right thing. Best of luck to do whatever you have in mind to do.

iwannabe, I can't help you with your problems, but I can assist in the slow leather work. I'm in about the same boat you're in, but my problem is with the lower back. I was forced to retire on a disability from the Post Office due to a back that just would not work like it was suppose to. I've had seven surgeries and none of them helped stabilize the back, or relieve the pain; so it was retirement for me. I love doing leather work, so it's not "foolish for investing so much money". I don't know how much money I've dropped into the craft since I started over 30 years ago, but the back problem happened about 15 years ago and I've had to work around the problem. I can only work for about 15 minutes at a time; and if I'm lucky I can get in about half an hour. It's those long stretches between the work that keeps me going; that and pain killer (Percocet) and now I'm on decaf coffee. I have many projects lined up to do, and I'll be lucky if I get a small part of them done. But ..... that's half the fun. The planning of any of my projects keeps my spirits up and helps make the time go by. Then when I do get around to doing what I plan, I take my time and it may take a couple of weeks to do a simple wallet. You have probably been told how to do things to ease the pain and to make doing anything easier on your shoulders, so I won't cover something a specialist has already told you. Besides, what works for one person doesn't always work for another. Basically, what I'm trying to say is, if you love doing something, you'll do anything to continue with your hobby. And hobby's are a necessity to sanity in this day and the age we live in. Even though I can't do everything I want to, I still go to the different leather shows and rub elbows with other crafters. Some of them are in worse shape than I'm in and it's interesting to compare notes on the different surgeries that a lot of us have had. I still spend money at Tandy and other leather companies. I'm in the process of ordering a side of leather from Wickett and Craig, and the bad thing about this is, I don't know what I'm going to do with it after I get it. I'll still order tools and dye, in fact I have an order on it's way from Springfield Leather Company right now and should be here tomorrow. I am handicapped and I'm NOT going to let it get me down. Hang in there and smile a lot, even if it means gritting your teeth when you do. If you think you love, or even like what you are doing, don't let a little pain get you down. I know that's probably the wrong thing to say, but if I can bare it, it's classified as only a little pain. My wife wonders sometimes how I make it through the day, but I do. Keep up your work and don't let life get you down. I guess it's now time to get off my soap box and turn it back over to you.

I had forgotten about using the veiner, and that is another way that Al Stohlman showed. Using the veiner and the mule foot were the first ways I learned. But like you said, it all depends on the size of the fish. Fish scales, or dragon scales done on something like a belt, is pleasing to the eye, and different looking; it's all in the effect that is wanted by the craftsman.

A Mule Foot, but use it lightly. Al Stohlman gives a good example of that in his book Figure Carving Finesse. It would depend on how big the scales are, but a rounded Mule Foot would be better, depending on what type of fish you are doing.

MadMax has a good point, don't use a background tool on wet/damp leather. Let it almost dry before you begin using the backgrounder. Also, move the tool back and forth, and around in circles until all ridges and bumps/humps are gone. This takes Practice and it wasn't until Tony Laier told me what to do, that I began getting better results. If you hold the leather project at an angle to a light source you can see the high and low spots, as well as the ridges. Go back over these and keep checking you work. And, practice, practice, practice.

I couldn't tell too much from your photo as it was too dark. Did you dye it black or is that the way it came out? From what I could see, you have already mentioned what was wrong, so I won't say anything more about that. The ram's eye looked really good, but I couldn't tell if you put hair marks inside the ear. Paul Burnett has a tutorial of a ram's head for sale on his web site. You might want to look into getting that and see how he does his ram. His web site is: http://paintingcow.com/content/. His figure carving lessons are really good and will teach a lot. I'm not saying your work is bad, it actually looks really good, but as you know, it needs a little help. Maybe Clay B will get into this and give you more help, as he seems to know animals. Keep up the good work.

From my experience on using goat leather, which is very limited indeed, I can say that goat lace is probably the 2nd best on the market; with kangaroo being the best. A lot of goat hides are turned into rawhide to used for lamp shades and such. Zack White Leather in NC sells goat hides and says that they can be used for thin wallets, money clips and other small leather items. Another source says that goat hides were used to store wine, and you can't argue with the Bible. Hope this helps and maybe someone else will have more data for you.