CustomDoug

Thanks wayne, but it's probably not necessary. I do have my current top to see the layout and to copy if need be. I'm just not wanting to go there. I have a shop table I gotta build already, and I'm not going to be able to get out of that one. Not to mention remodeling our front porch.

See, I thought with so many of these machines around that there'd be a common top for them, thanks for the info. Gregg when you say "plywood top", it sounds a little rough... is it a smooth finished surface or what? How much would a set of K legs run?

I need to build a table in my shop (two car garage) to work leather with. I'll want to use it for all the common leather related things (cutting patterns, tooling, etc.) but also I'd like it to be big enough to do some upholstery work on. It also needs to have slots for storing rolled up leathers underneath it. Does anyone have plans to make such a table?

I gotta do some thinking on this... unless someone makes a top that will specifically fit my machine then I may have to make the top myself anyway. Though I really don't need another project. I just called the seller and the recesses for the hinges are routed closer together than my machine needs. Not that new recesses can't be routed but at least if the hinges fit without modification then I'd only have to elongate the machine footprint.

I'm thinking about replacing the old ratty table top that my Singer 31-15 is installed in, and want to get it before I get the servo motor (can only afford one thing at a time). So I will need an industrial style table top with a K leg base. I've found one of these combos local and used (but in really good shape) for $95. Unfortunately the cut out opening for the machine is described as 16" X 7&1/8". It doesn't look custom, just standard in my opinion. Measuring the 31-15 shows it to be 18&3/4" X 7". I own a jigsaw and a router and fill like removing the extra 2&3/4" length wouldn't be a big deal... but is it enough of a savings (over new) to bother. Also, does the 31-15 just have a really long base or maybe old machines do, in general? Is there a standard sizing for modern table top cutouts?

That animation moves a little too fast for me, but it is cool.

$9.99 per sq ft ?? ouch, maybe I should become a tandy club member after all? http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/9200-00.aspx

Yea I thought of that already. But I haven't called them yet 'cause I was hoping that there'd be other options. The reason? Well, besides a limited color selection for upholstery (which isn't really a problem I guess) I figured with W&C I'd be paying a premium, especially with the splitting charge. BTW, which of their leathers would be a good choice for upholstery anyway - english bridle, skirting, harness, etc. I hate to call them just to pose the questions but not actually place an order.

I can find chrome upholstery hides all day long but I want vegetable hide for a couple of upholstery projects I've been wanting to work on. Would need to be in the 2.5 oz or thinner range and preferably pre-dyed. Anyone know of a source or two?

I actually paid about $50 for the head, table, clutch motor combo... but the head needed to be repainted really badly, so I redid it in industrial/battleship grey, about $15 in supplies. The clutch motor basically makes it useless to me right now though, I've got to replace the clutch motor with a servo so I can control the speed, you may consider that too when buying one.

I have one... but I think that $450 is way too much to pay. I guess depending on the condition of each item (table,motor,head,etc). It's a good machine and a classic but they're pretty easy to come by from what I can tell. BTW, a roller foot is a great investment if using these for leather.

This is something different than suede then? I mean I'd guess most suede is chrome tanned but other than that, essentially the same?

"Vegetable Tanned Splits" - what are they and how are they used? .... I of course know what the meaning of veg tanned is and it's characteristics but what is the meaning of "Splits". I always thought that they were the removed leather from a hide that went through a shiver. Trash in other words. But are these sold and do they have a finished side to them? What am I missing?

I've got #20 needles, yea!! - though I have no idea why, since I didn't know I could go with larger thread . Anyway, thanks guys.

A good needle size for #92 ??

BTW, does doing this cause any particular troubles with adjusting thread tension?

Good deal then, I'm gonna order some #92 in the same colors as my current batch of #69 thread. This will be plenty of strength for the items I'm making right now. thanks.

I've been wishing I could use a #138 thread with my Singer patcher but it's a small bobbin model and I've only used #69 with it because I've read that it's about as large as you can go without problems. However, I just realized there's a size 92... which could be a good compromise if it would work. Has anyone tried it? How about if I went with a smaller size bobbin thread, say a #46 ? Doable?

I've just been considering removing the teeth lately... and dipping it in that rubberized coating stuff for grip. I think I'll get an extra one and try it.

Thanks for the explanation, I understand about helping the motor with the handwheel now. And also I do realize there's no feed dog on the patchers - I just tend to say stuff without thinking sometimes . Hey BTW, have you ground down (grinded ) the foot on your machine?

By "just enough hand control" do you mean help at the piece leather, the feed dog area?.... in other words the hand wheel is not touched to get the motor turning because you're helping feed the leather with your hands at first?

Hey Wizcrafts, I was just thinking..... with your setup (handwheel on the front) the smallish motor doesn't have the added weight of the handwheel/pulley combo to try and turn. Do you think the combo would make a difference for the motor's ability in this application?

Sandy - Thanks for the picture. That wheel looks huge, where'd you source it from? Your setup looks a bit more complicated than the 1.5 amp can motor though, and at 110euros, is a little more expensive than the can motor - if I'm not mistaken. Wizcrafts - Thanks too for the pictures, it's always a big help. I like that setup and think I'll be doing this. The leather shim's not a big deal but it would be nicer with the 27.5" belt. Maybe a crazy idea but do you think an auto parts store would have a longer 1/4" belt?

Hey Wizcrafts, did you ever get the cogged belt in and have a chance to install the motor up higher in the back of the 29K72? I'd sure like to see a picture of it when you get a chance, please & thanks!

Good to know, I'll stere clear of the 211/212 then.