CustomDoug

I've not gotten to it yet, but will soon.. the tan english bridle is what I got. It's not blemish free but plenty of usable leather for sure, and I really dig the color! Thanks for checking Tim.. no, there's nothing on my box except a one dimensional UPS label. I give 'em a call in a couple of days if nothing shows up.

Well, my new assumption is that the sale page(s) is not maintained (see both links that I posted above). At least it hasn't been for the last few weeks. If you go by the link that actually has prices, they are wrong by a little, at least the leather that I was trying to order was. Of course it could be updated at any time though.

really? You learn something new everyday... I thought that traditionally an invoice would be sent later if the customer had an "account" with the company (I'm sure most of their customers do but I don't). You guys are right though... I just checked and I got the shipping message a couple of days before my credit card was hit. Anyway, I'm pleased with what I received and will probably go back for more.

My order showed up today from W&C for a side of their overstock "SP" leather, it's got it's uses and I'd probably consider ordering it again. I had them divide it in half (backbone to tummy ) and make one piece 3oz and the other 6oz... which worked out well. My only gripe (and I guess it's kind of petty) is that there was absolutely no invoice or company flyer in the box at all. Obviously the invoice is needed for several reasons... taxes, as reference for future orders, and breakdown for the splitting service and specific shipping cost per weight. I hate to have to call and bother them in requesting one be sent to me when it could have been included (and been done with it). Also, I bring up the "Flyer" because I was asked which one I was looking at when I tried to make my first order (with a incorrect price), supposedly the prices I had were expired. Which brings me to another question or point... there are two places for W&C that show a "overstock" sale, here they are: http://www.wickett-c...verstocked.html AND http://www.wickett-c.../overstock-sale . The first link is the one I was looking at and the prices are exactly the same and the prices are slightly less than what I was charged which is weird. The second link obviously has no details to it, though I think it's their newer website page, which is weird. Anyway, if anyone orders from them, you might want to request a paid invoice and/or sale flyer.

Nice.. so I assume you're still letting both sides get tacky for a few minutes before attempting the maneuver, nothing changes? Does it slide out so smoothly that it's easy to keep the pieces aligned?

Not sure if email is the way to go..... I wrote mr.Siegel back in November about obtaining some garment horsehide (after he'd asked me here to email him about it directly). He answered my email by asking how much I would be needing. I replied something to the effect of "not a whole lot at first, but potentially larger quantities would come" - I still haven't gotten a reply to that. I don't hold it against him though, I knew it was a shot in the dark as HH is hard to come by and maybe not enough profit in it for him to bother with. An email to that effect would have taken two minutes and would have been nice, but oh well. I would have never brought that up if it weren't for these suggestions to email Siegel. I sure ain't trying to be part of any mob mentality, just stating fact here.

I can't comment on the color fade or durability (though why would it be less durable than any other?), but as far as I'm concerned it looks great... and you've done a fantastic job too!

I guess I need to break down and buy some clear-lac 'cause everyone's always mentioning neat-lac... what exactly is it that makes it so popular?

So, neat-lac is no longer available and apparently clear-lac is the same thing... but I was wondering if Springfield's 'Pro Clear Finish' would do the same thing for me? Mostly I need it as the finish over burnished and dyed leather edges. http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/7175/Finish%2CPro-Clear%2C8oz/

oh shoot, you're right.. I missed that.

Yea that is basically what I've been doing though I've been tapering the tips as per Al Stohlman's method, with a blade scrapping the end fibers apart. I honestly see no reason that the same couldn't be done with the prewaxed thread. What got me concerned in the first place is what Stohlman says in his book, quote: "Pre-waxed thread is not good, as proper ends can not be made."

I've only been using Nonwaxed linen thread for hand stitching and waxing it up myself before starting. I like it alot but have been considering buying some that is already waxed (because of the various colors that are available). I know I can dye the unwaxed stuff that I already have but right now I'm not sure if I want to add an extra step or two. So, how does one attach the waxed thread to the harness needle? I assume it's different from the nonwaxed thread because of how you taper the ends by scraping the tips with a sharp blade. Or is it done exactly the same way? TIA.

Thanks for the advice you guys, I do appreciate it. Again, I do understand that the overstitch wheel is not necessary to mark holes if using a pricking iron... but it is not uncommon for it to be used as I'm planning, as a final stitch unifier. I actually thought this was how it got it's name. BTW, reddevil76, that's a great looking stitch job I must say!

Cool... though I don't think I misunderstood anything

IS the newer Tandy one, the one that's called the "Pro" groover ? If it's the same as the seiwa then I'll get the tandy one, otherwise the seiwa one sounds good.

Good to hear Tim, thanks.

Has anyone had a problem ordering leather from Wickett & Craig's "overstock" sale page ? I called today to oder some 8-10oz english bridle from their overstock sale page... the person I talked to (I won't give the name) told me that it wasn't available in the color I wanted (it was showing on the sale page though), only the 10-12oz in that color was available (I figured 8/10 had just sold out and the page hadn't been updated yet). I said ok I'd take a side of the 10/12 then. So then the rep quoted me a price for the 10/12 that was more than what the sale page said. I told the rep of the price on the sales page, they pulled up the page on their end and basically after acting like they hadn't seen the page before - told me I was incorrect (even though I was looking right at it on my monitor). The price wasn't a whole lot more yet it was significant in my world (I'm obviously on a tight budget). Anyway, I got a bad vibe from the general tone of the call and I was also thinking "am I going crazy or reading a different page than this person", so I passed for the time being to get my thoughts together and to triple check. I rechecked the sales page - it was the same. I called back, got a different rep, placed an order for the original 8/10oz item that I was interested in... no problems. But this time I was quoted $2 more than the sales page said it was. I didn't argue about the price difference because it was insignificant. Is this a common problem with W&C or just an off day. My feeling was that it was such a small order that the first rep didn't really care to make the sale. Anyone with similar experience or care to comment?

Thanks for the reply Tony but since I know very little of pricking irons in general, having never bought one - Dixon is new to me... no link? I did a search just now of course and neither of the two places that I find them at, list the stitch per inch count (unless I've missed it at both places). The two sites are "josephdixon" and the other is "siegel". http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Saddlers_Tooling/Pricking_Irons/One_and_Half_Inch_Pricking_Irons.html#ProdInfo https://www.siegelofca.com/view_cat_product.asp?id=41 Also... why are some pricking irons $175+ and others are around the $40 range (goodsjapan.jp) which is made from high carbon steel.

Gary, yes I know the overstitch wheel will not be "necessary" if I use the pricking iron BUT I WANT to use the overstitch wheel after the item is made to help set the threads in a more consistent uniform way. Not to mark where holes will go. The thing is... that none of the pricking irons I see advertised mentions anything about number of stitches per inch - that would make it easy for me. To confuse matters further, I'm looking at the japanese made items which are metric measurements. I may have to break out a math book to figure this out. I just thought someone might have a breakdown of their size comparisons. thanks.

Been thinking about buying a pricking iron and since they come in different sizes, I'd like to know which one will coordinate with the various sizes of overstitch wheels? This should be in direct relation to the number of stitches per inch that the overstitch wheel is made for, right? I plan to use the overstitch wheel for going over the top of the stitching after they are completed, to help the general appearance... so, I'm looking for (for instance) "a size no.6 overstitch wheel would have the same stitch per inch as a 2.5mm pricking iron" [which is just a guess and example].

I'm looking for a better stitch groover than the tandy one I have. I know of the Versa groovers but that's nearly $100 w/shipping. It there something else I should consider?

That's certainly interesting.. so is it more prone to scuffs etc, you think?

Thanks for the info bob, I'll give them a ring. Great pics BTW.

I've come across a few bags from COACH that are marked as being "Glove tanned cowhide". The are very soft and flexible as well as having no gloss/sheen.. I'm also interested in sourcing some if anyone knows of a place that carries it.

Hate to revive a dead thread, but it gives me a reason to use this emoticon . I just picked up an old industrial Reece S2-BH button hole machine off ebay for $75 total... cost me nothing after the christmas gift cards and I am so syched about it that I had to post, sorry. It is cosmetically ruff looking which is not a problem (I'll call it mojo), but atleast it's not frozen up or anything... my fingers are crossed on it being a good one (the seller is clueless about it). If not - I'll use it for an anchor if nothing else. Ya'll wish me luck. Now I need a table, motor and a operating manual for it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=300514432422&si=bKS2F%252BGn1KMj%252FPWiROxM25Th9JA%253D&viewitem=#ht_1163wt_1141