CustomDoug

This knife blade is described as "High Strength Steel for Tool" (via google translator).. I personally have no idea what that means for choosing a stone (or two), but it's also mentioned that the blade can be SHAPED and re-shaped many time (because of the long length) - so it sounds like it wouldn't be a hard thing to do. I have this knife too and honestly I reach for the exacto more often than not... but that's because I've had a hard time sharpening the L'indespinsible too (not that I've concentrated on learning to do it right). I definitely do plan to make this my go to knife though - so apriori please keep us updated on what you figure out.

Thanks Trevor, I don't find a description of how they are made.. do you know if those are forged? I think some punches have a welded seem that can become weak. Doug C

Thanks for the suggestions.. not a bad idea - unfortunately I already have too many projects stacked up to think about crafting my own. Doug C

I'm looking to purchase a set of punches that will allow me to neatly pass a flat leather strap through a closely size elongated hole... from very narrow up to about an inch or so I guess. I see them called oblong punches and sometimes "crew punches" - are these the same things? Anyone have recommendations for a good set? A source for for buying them individually or as a set? TIA. Doug C

Yea, I sort of thought that might be the case. I'm starting to think that a bone one would never be needed over a cocobolo one, as the CB ones probably kill two birds with one stone (as they are better at burnishing). Similarly with the plastic and teflon ones... it appears (according to the description) that adhesives do not stick to the teflon, so no need to purchase a plastic one. robertmeco - thanks for the link, that folder is dirt cheap!.. just to be sure (because it has no actual description / and they are calling it an "awl"? ) is it indeed made of bone? You pretty happy with it? Doug C

Thanks I can see where a curved one would be useful. Seems a plastic folder would be good where it might come in to contact w/ glue, a cocobolo one where burnishing is needed, and a teflon folder specifically where NO burnishing is desired. Is that about right? There are a few on this page that look interesting.. I'm considering the middle one second row: http://www.bonefolder.com/ Doug C

I've been needing to buy a "bone folder" of some sort for a while now. There's a few to choose from - bone, cocobolo, teflon, etc. Any real differences in them that I should consider before purchasing. Which types do you guys prefer and why? Should I plan on getting a variety of them for different uses.. like use this one for jobs involving glue, use this one for thinner more delicate leathers, for burnishing, etc? Good places to buy them? thanks. Doug C

My opinion David, is that they are using two threads for that, starting at the peak of the triangle and hand stitching upwards on each side, towards the hardware. There they are locking the final stitches in by making the last stitch wrapping around and back thru - and often sitting on the outside of the painted edge. The piece would have to be glued before hand, no doubt. Hopefully someone else will weigh in with some better insight. Doug C

Wouldn't these do the same thing? : http://tooltown.com/shop-by-category/clamps/8-sheet-metal-clamp-vise-grip-style/ I saw these at Harbor Freight too, they look very similar but I'm not sure either one locks.. maybe some kind of a strong rubber band strap doubled over a couple of times would work to "lock" them, for a cheap alternative? : http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-jaw-straight-sheet-metal-seamer-98728.html http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-flat-jaw-welding-pliers-93062.html Doug C

The heat control part of the Cambell units have been out of stock for a really long time.. but I don't see why other control units from wood burning machines wouldn't work. Doug C

I'd told myself to avoid the adapters that mounted w/ set screws. My assumption is/was that the burnisher (being a somewhat long shape) would wobble because of a slight offset cause by the set screws. I have no experience to back that up though - do you guys find that's not an issue? Otherwise I'm all for that solution. I need to figure out exactly what size bolts/arbor is on this grinder (M** or 5/8" and what thread pitch). I'd prefer direct mount but perhaps Metric (my guess) to US bolt adapters are not even available for this kind of application. Here's a nifty little drum sanding unit that I'd love to get for the left side of my grinder.. it includes fine, medium and coarse grits all on one drum and is only $44. Looks like it mounts via set screws but there are no mention of the hole diameter: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/multi_sand.htm Doug C

Thinking about making myself a money clip and was wondering - what's the thin "backing plates" for exactly? Also, just to confirm.. they are situated on the outside of the magnets right (w/ two layers of lining leather separating the actual magnets from touching)? Also.. will these magnets damage a credit or debit cards if clasped inside? Doug C

BTW - I read 5/8" off one of the wire discs that's currently mounted... but the Arbor bolt's thread pitch seems to be 2.5mm (I checked with a gauge). The arbor bolts are .625"/15.87mm in diameter. Maybe the bolts are a metric size like M20 or M22 (I don't know the difference though)? If this is the case, maybe an adapter could be obtained for use with tool attachments that might work. Anybody know the arbor bolt size that I have on this machine? thanks. Doug C

Hi folks, I have an 8" bench grinder that runs at 1725rpm with 5/8" arbors. I use it mostly with a wire wheel to help clean off parts while doing car restoration. Works well for that. But reading thru some posts on here, I've come to realize that this machine might be helpful for my other hobby - leather working. Unfortunately it's a little foggy about what I need to make this thing useful. Or if it can even be done. Apparently some people have turned their machines into burnishers. I'd like to do that too with perhaps a variety of sanding attachments for the left side and a hardwood burnisher on the right - If that's possible at all (I've seen the Cobra MP burnisher machine though). Like I mentioned this machine has 5/8" arbors on either side.. which seems a little large to me, but are there a certain kind of sanding attachment that might work with it (maybe some kind of drum sander that would fit)? Or are there sanding "wheels" I should consider? What about a burnisher for the other side? Anyone make one to work with a 5/8 arbor and 2.5 metric thread pitch? Custom makers? Additionally, could this machine be used for sharpening round knives, clicker knives, Bell knives, etc? What attachments are recommended for that kind of thing (I obviously know very little about sharpening stuff - but a quick study who's willing to learn). Doug C

Oh, thanks Silvia - I didn't even see the ligne 16 spring snap dies the first time I looked, not sure how that happened. I probably just gravitated to the first "16" I saw. I think those are the right ones.. thanks for confirming the 4 piece dies. I shall contact Goldstar before I make the purchase. Doug C

After reading several other threads on the subject and according to Art (forum member), Segma snaps are actually considered to be 'Ligne 16' in size... so I'm wondering if that equals to the goldstar dies marked as "dies for metal cover buttons #16 (7/16")" ? And also I'd like to know exactly which dies are in the set.. I assume 4 separate die pieces are needed for the 4 different components of this snap system. Doug C

Does anyone have any idea if the Goldstar machines will set Segma fasteners ? They usually come in size 21 (.150" stud/ball) and 22 (.175" stud ball) .. often used w/ glove making, or at pocket flaps on leather jackets. What type and size die would I be needing for these (Goldstar offers Spring snap dies and Ring snap dies). Thanks. Doug C

I have some edge binder attachments for my cylinder bed walking foot machine that I've never used before (the attachments not the machine), and some ideas for projects that would include binding the edges with a leather strip. I don't need the tape to have finished edges, raw is fine. Is there any companies that sell this stuff, preferably in various widths ? Thanks. Doug C

Yes, it's a walking foot machine, cylinder arm w/ a flat table top attachment. Tension at Presser Foot : I think (IIRC) I adjusted the presser foot to have more pressure a couple years back when I started sewing garments, to help me sew over multiple layers of garment leather where several seams meet. I just have sort of left it at that setting (been sewing garments until lately) and never touch it. Should I back that adjustment off then, to help this walking off the edge situation ? BTW - is this normally done on the fly then moved back to a lighter tension after the thick seam area? Or generally set and left? Glue : Which glue would you guys use - contact cement or tanners bond (PVA white glue) ? I have both. Foot/Guide Choice : Which kind of presser foot and/or edge guide would you guys recommend for going around fairly sharp rounded corners? Like I mentioned I'm using a spring loaded 'compensating' foot because it's great at keeping me a constant distance from the edge ON THE STRAIGHTS (no other edge guide needed)... but perhaps it's spring loaded "blade" is doing too much pushing down at the apex of the round corners. I have been slowly walking the needle around the corners . I am manually lifting the presser foot to see where the needle will go, and like I said it does look nice on the top side when done. Sewing rounded corners advice : The nature of sewing tight rounded corners can be more difficult than it seams.. because I find that you never really take the leather item to the edge guide at the apex of the turn. If I go too deep into the turn, the corner will come out too squared off. I'm thinking that's where my foot might be messing me up - pushing the leather down there. Any advice for sewing tight rounded corners? Thanks so much guys.. Doug C

OK, I'm still having this problem.. it's soo frustrating. I changed out the old feed dog and needle plate for new ones. I am also now using a flat table top attachment. Using #23 needle/ 207 thread / 4-5oz leather (2 layers at the corners) / spring loaded "compensating" foot (to help keep a 1/8" or so distance from the edge). I'm usually only having problems at the apex of the rounded corners - which I slowly walk the needle around one hole at a time. Threads look GREAT on the top side after I've sewn completely around the piece but when I flip it over I'm occasionally getting threads walking off the edge of the under side leather. Here's one thing that I'm thinking may be the problem - I've gotten into a habit of just using the very strong double sided leather basting tape, it works great for my garment leathers (which is what I've mostly sewn up until lately) and is quicker and a lot less hassle than contact cement. I bast the two pieces together with the tape and hammer around the edge on both sides. The two layers are even at that point and all feels solid. You guys think this tape could be the problem? Will the contact cement solidify the two layers better, not allowing them to shift apart (because it seems like that's what's happening to a slight degree)? Doug C

Gump, your statement has confused me a little bit (probably my fault, sorry).. because I'm not seeing any mention of 'round' in their chart at all. But I think you're suggesting a common 135x17 (non leather) needle (no special point) for sewing soft thin garment leathers, for tighter holes and more SPI. Right? Doug C

J Hayes .. That is a huge help, thanks a ton for taking the time to make that sample up and post a picture of it. Think I'll try those "S' tips. Doug C

J hayes, do those "S" points leave a slanted appearance to the thread that is laid down? Looking at the Campbell Bosworth chart.. the thread appears to be slanted upward (S point picture) - I like that particular angle, can you confirm it's true?I ask this because that same chart has the pictures of the LL and LR mixed up (or perhaps those are pics of the back side, or switched photgraphically somehow). http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html Gump - yes I am sewing mostly soft thin chrome leathers, some chrome w/veg linings though. Anyway.. the round point needles that you are talking about, would that be the textile needles (135x17 in my case) rather than the leather specific needles (135x16) ? I'm not seeing a round point in the above chart. Is there some other letter designation I should look for? I'm using Schmetz and Groz Beckert (have not worked out a favorite yet). Thanks. Doug C

Yea, I've seen all of these charts.. I was basically trying to ask if anyone had found that they could go lower on the needle sizes with any success. Doug C

I've been using a #23 needle for my 138 polyester and/or nylon thread and a #25 needle for my 207. I don't care for the large-ish holes that are visible in the stitch row however... I was wondering if i could possibly drop the 138 thread down to a #19 (120/19) needle and for the 207 thread perhaps a #22 (140/22) needle? I feel this would help hide the holes a lot better. But has anyone tried this at all? My threads are bonded and some say lubricated. I do not have #19 or #22 needles on hand at the moment and will order some if you guys think this is a possibility. Doug C