CustomDoug

Thanks for that tip wizcrafts.. does this oil darken the leather at all? I'd prefer not, but would consider it either way .. I recall reading a statement somewhere (at some point in the past) that a particular bridle leather had a more flimsy feel to it than others. But I can not find where I read that and/or the details. Seems like it was a european tannery but not sedgewick. BTW - I'm not using it for making bridles. Doug C

I was wondering which if any, of the bridle leathers is the softest and most flexible than the others? Is there one with less stiffness? I'm sure that's just the nature of veg tan bridle but is one particularly softer than the others? I've been using W&C's bridle so far, and love it - but a softer version would be nice. Or perhaps there's an alternative leather I should consider? Something that's vegetable re-tanned maybe? Thoughts? Doug C

Here's the phone number I was able to find for Jay Hardtke Inc in Dallas (they moved here recently).. I'd call them myself but it'll be a little while before I will be able to make a purchase from them. If you call, please let us know how it goes - I'm interested. (972) 803-8953 DougC

I'd like to know where you got both of the leathers, please? Great tutorial too, BTW ! Doug C

Looks great! - that surface plate looks big, what size is it? I need one, where'd you source it from? Doug C

Here's a link to a current thread discussing the same thing. From it - I think I want to try the (dual ended) eye-shadow applicators. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=65053 Doug C

Gawd, kevlar gloves are in my near future! I've 'surprised' myself a couple of times with a head knife but not more than a nick. I always think "dang I'm getting better at sharpening a blade". My knives do not have a blade cover but after reading this thread, it's next on my project list. I shall force myself to use it everytime. Doug C

Wow Dwight nice illustration! And I have to admit that I have not tried pulling the leather across the sanding belt like that. I've only thought to run the sanding belt perpendicular with the leather. I will give it a go and try to look at my 1" vertical belt sander with new eyes. Sure seems effective from the look of your straps. I do sort of feel like that's going to take a good eye for "wavy-ness" in the line .. but I have a good eye (haha). What I was thinking (w/ the horizontal unit) is to make a sort of thin wooden clamp to sandwich the leather in - think two paint stir sticks clamped together with wing nuts/bolts or even just simple office bull clips. Clamp it about 1/8" from the edge of the leather or so, then sand it level holding the piece perpendicular to the horizontal belt. This would help develop an even line quicker and control the strap at the same time. I like that Rigid machine too. Does harbor freight have similar? Doug C

The only problem with the 1" version of HF's sander (for me) is that there is not enough room to work longer pieces. The base plate is in the way. Maybe if the whole sanding belt protruded completely and could be mounted so that the belt stuck out past a table edge it would be a lot better. A horizontal belt sander on the other hand is completely open on both ends (and is longer). Dwight wrote: "..Anything wider cuts far too much of the leather, . . . leaves valleys, . . . etc..." - Dwight are you saying that a wider sanding belt causes those problems? I'm not sure how that would be the case as the grit is going to be the same between the narrow and wider belt. Do you have experience with a horizontal sander? If that's true I may need to reconsider. Thanks. Doug C

Except that the future of the art world (particularly fashion and music) seems to be inclined towards collaborations. But I get your point. Though, to say that a disclaimer should be presented with any display of a repurposed piece of cloth having a logo.. well you sound like their legal team with that one and I disagree unless moneys are being made from it I guess. But still I have to say that I don't like someone having control over something I bought after I paid good money to own it. LV is an exception though because their gaudy logo has permiated modern civilization so well. Doug C

I thought I needed a belt sander so I ran out to Harbour Freight and bought one of their small vertical belt sanders that sits on a table top. It uses like a 3/4 to 1" sanding belt (can't remember which). I do not recommend this version of a sander - it's only useful for the shortest pieces like small card holders, wallets, etc - with straight edges of course. It was cheap so I'll have it when needed but honestly I'm really still wanting a much bigger horizontal belt sander. For long belts and straps my little sander is useless and frustrating. I feel like a bigger horizontal machine with like a 3-4"wide sanding belt would be a heck of a lot better.tion I also plan on getting drum sanders in some configuration, definitely needed. Doug C

Any reason Hemp Rope would not be a good choice for bag handle internals? Wasn't this the traditional choice? It's cheap and easy to source but will it set off bells at the airport? alternatives? Doug C

Why would their website still be up I wonder? Perhaps they're going to re-up at some point? http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/ Doug C

Has anyone here purchased from a UK company called A&A Crack and Sons Ltd. ? I just happened upon their website and the leathers are pretty impressive. They carry leathers from some of the more well known tanneries.. for instance Annonoy (owned by Hermes), Weinheimer, Horween, etc. Here's the website : http://www.aacrack.co.uk/catalogue.asp?page=home# Anyone purchased from them? Thoughts? Doug C

BTW guys, it's a known factoid that LV is on Wickett & Craigs's client list... perhaps they're getting this type of leather from W&C, they'll split the sides down to 2-3 oz for free... but I've never specifically heard mention of them offering 'calf' - but then some folk's refer to any hide under a certain sq ft as 'calf', and W&C may be the same. Charles Hardtke, who is a large-ish seller of quality calf skins in the US is supposed to be relocating to Dallas soon.. I intend to stop in and see if he has anything close to vachetta once he gets his place set up. Hopefully soon. Doug C

I'm looking for some of this leather too. Is the Siegel calf the one that's referred to as "Natural, Fair, English Calf" ? .8 -1.0 mm, what ounce would that be (don't have my cheat sheet in front of me)? It seems kind of thin for a lot of things I'd be making with it, unless it was doubled up. It's be nice it they offered a thickness option. The leather in the first group of pictures that tontotex posted is Florentine "vachetta" leather.. sourced from Italy no doubt but I have no idea the particular tannery (probably privately owned). Would this not be the same thing : http://www.waterhouseleather.com/kip_tooling_leather.htm Then this place may have something very similar to vachetta: http://www.masure.be/en/ Ko-cho-line is a leather dressing and this type of leather tends to retain water spots, etc: http://essentiallyequestrian.com/en/for-the-stable/302-ko-cho-line-leather-dressing.html Tontotex - please let us know if you find some of this leather that's satisfactory, thanks. Doug C

I'm looking forward to Hardkte coming to Dallas too.. hopefully it'll be an actual store to visit and see the leathers in person. I've been considering getting some of his calf skins for a long time now and just never have. Doug C

Thanks for those tips Ferg, it will be helpful I'm sure. As far as complaining goes - don't look at me. I purchased this machine when I had the extra money to do so (a rare moment).. knowing I would not need it for quite some time. It has been sitting idle in my garage/studio - but not out of frustration. I just haven't gotten to the point of NEEDING it yet (collecting tools and trying to perfecting my craft in general). Learning it has been on my list of things to do. Your advice makes it seem all the more possible - again, thanks. But with that said: Someone shoot a good bell knife sharpening video - pleeeaasse ! ;^) Doug C (wanting a professional Clicker machine, but not needing it yet)

I have the same issue - I have one of these skiving machines too, had it for a year or so. After a few practice skives on chrome tanned (which did fine) it started 'pulling and mangleing' the leather. I tried the built in sharpening stone - lots of sparks but still not sharp enough to run the leather thru. I now have a bell knife with a very light coating of rust. We need a bell knife sharpening video - anyone ? Doug C

Wow thanks hitokiri8 .. that's currently about $225 US (for the basic set up) and they'll send a paypal invoice for billing. Good find! Doug C

There's also this heat control unit (and it's single hand-piece counterpart).. if you can figure out how to get 1/4" phone jacks to work with a soldering iron : http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/125467/Detail-Master-Excalibre.aspx Doug C

There is this machine from a S. Korean leather supply company, the head comes to about $118 + shipping (first link). And the handle is about $35.50 - with and adjustable tip for varying the crease line from the edge (A GREAT IDEA IMHO!), second link: http://handon.co.kr/front/php/product.php?product_no=326&main_cate_no=29&display_group=1 http://handon.co.kr/front/php/product.php?product_no=708&main_cate_no=29&display_group= Then there is this tip too.. still reasonably priced: http://handon.co.kr/front/php/product.php?product_no=327&main_cate_no=29&display_group=1 Or, the following adapter could be used with a standard soldering iron (and a wood burning/pyrography temperature controller) to attach the tips from Campbell Randall (using a small brass threaded adapter between them) : http://handon.co.kr/front/php/product.php?product_no=879&main_cate_no=29&display_group=1 Doug C

You mean this explanation of why the tips are soo outrageously expensive, from post #134? : "...* the accessories/tips - they're just better. " - no, I didn't miss it the first time.

The single set up comes to about $750 from the only US vendor - which is more than a price for the hobbyist IMHO. I'd prefer more than just one tip too ! those tips are ranging from $130 to $210 each ??? seriously, why ? Doug C

My .02$ - I'd actually rather have to sharpen the chinese ones rather than have to start from scratch and make a whole range of corner punches from conduit or round punches... though I have no doubt that they'd work just as good or better. But if needing a range of them the Chinese ones are a cheap way to save a lot of effort IMHO. I'd look at buying the ones from Goodsjapan since their tools usually get a bit better reviews than the tandy tools.. and they are reasonably priced too. On the other hand, I have had the following set in my 'watch list' for a while too - they are chinese yes, but they certainly look a lot more refined than some of the others (FWIW): http://goo.gl/nPZa2Y Doug C