Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CustomDoug

  1. Hey Constbulary, that's un-waxed thread right? If I'm not mistaken 3 cord is usually around .50mm which generally will equate to about a #207 (Tex 210) thread of say bonded nylon.. So assuming the machine will normally handle #207, and if I go slow and use a thread lubricant.. I have to think that UN-waxed linen might have a chance - or is it just too weak for the machine action? What is it about the waxed version that would keep this from working? Is it just not strong enough to handle the action of the machine? I think I might be willing to except the extra machine clean up and maintenance if I could use this stuff. I can see how a needle eye could easily become clogged though - are there no special needles for this thread available? Doug C
  2. Hi Wizcrafts, here's what Campbell Randell says regarding linen thread: "Linen Thread is still a favorite for hand sewing, as well as machine sewing. Our customers range from bookbinders, to shoe repair shops, to re-enactment costumers. Flax Linen thread wears longer than cotton. For easy hand sewing, linen is the way to go! If you are machine sewing with linen, we recommend our Campbell's Thread Lubricant for your wax pot." So, machine sewing with it seems to be possible with the lubricant.. Here is their "thread lubricant" (I get nothing when searching 'Lax Wax' or the other one), so I'm not sure this is what you're using: http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=thread%20lubricant&product_id=526 Also Abbeyengland.com says this about Barbour linen : Coats / Barbour reverse twist linen thread is suitable for hand and machine sewing. Available on 250g cops only A 250g cops contains approximately 600m of thread. So, same thing - they mention machine sewing too. Of course which machine specifically is not mentioned. Doug C
  3. I'm wondering if anyone here has tried using Barbour thread through their industrial sewing machines? There is a Barbour unwaxed linen that I'd like to try but the spools look small (200m fr the ones I saw). Maybe there's one that's lightly waxed or lubricated, that I could try thru the machine? Does anyone know? Also... I have been able to come across one mention (and only one picture) of Barbour Bonded Nylon on industrial sized spools. Has anyone used that and know of a good source (looking for colors if possible). Thanks. Doug C
  4. Thanks jpherold, I like that sanding sponge.. it would even be useful to wrap loose sand paper around when the sponge's grit has worn away. Doug C
  5. Thanks Billy - I got an idea after your last comment, to help hold the thinner leather better while I try to burnish. I was thinking that maybe I can leather wrap a couple of paint stirring sticks from the hardware store, put rubber bands around one end (left there permanently) and add a spring clamp around the other end (for ease of opening and closing). The idea being to install the edge of the thin leather (barely) exposed for burnishing. Thanks for the inspiration.. I'll let you know how it works out. Doug C
  6. At this thickness, it's floppy as heck... any good clamps to use? I'm thinking something long but with a good gap (bigger than bull-dog clips) for allowing more leather than a narrow watch strap has. Doug C
  7. Do any of you guys have any tips or suggestions for edging thin veg tan leather... like wallet interiors, etc.? Anything 2.5oz or less . It almost seems like rounding the edge is a wasted effort sometimes. I do have a #2 edger but that leaves more of a bevel than a round edge.. I haven't bothered ordering a #1 edger because it seems unlikely that it's worthwhile because the #2 takes off such a small sliver of leather. Still though rounded edges are more professional looking in general. How do you guys handle this? Thanks. Doug C
  8. Yes that's it, recognized the name immediately. Thank you! Glad you found what you were looking for too. Doug C
  9. Hey Zen - No battle of semantics needed... it's just that I know of legit replica companies (mostly making replica WWI & WWII items), and you made it sound like replica = counterfeit. Simple as that. And NO I don't need your take on what the differences are, thank you. The site in question states 'replica', implying a permission. I have not researched this company, nor have you. So neither of us have any real proof whether Hermes has given them permission or not. I was just taking them at face value. None of these websites say anything about 'genuine' or 'with exclusive permission from..' or anything like that - so the safe bet is no. But again IMHO, anything could go on behind the scenes. I think you some how got the impression I was all for selling replicas without permission - trust me nothing could be farther from the truth. I asked the question in my post: "..Or perhaps international laws regarding copy rights muddies the waters too much for Hermes to stop them?" - and you not being a lawyer but having some lawyer friends were able to confirm my suspicions, thanks again. And Zen, you know what you can do with your BBB, Trustwave, VeriSign logos - just saying, rude while only making your 7th post in a forum is usually a sign of things to come. BTW, to pull this back on track... I did a quick search and found several companies that sell Louis Vuitton cloth (textiles) and "vinyl".. none of them say anything about being authentic - buyer be ware! I guess that's the route all of the custom car builders on TV (West Coast Customs, etc) go when providing their clients with LV seats. Doug C
  10. Your counterfeit is their replica. I don't see how it's possible - they run a website that is blatant and in your face with stealing the identity of this company. Unless, of course Hermes has a hand in it... not saying they do, but at the same time it wouldn't be a bad business decision with each bag being $500 or so. That kind of thing's been done before. Then again maybe Hermes only allows high quality fakes (doesn't seem likely though)? Or perhaps international laws regarding copy rights muddies the waters too much for Hermes to stop them? This company excepts Visa and Master Card so those accounts could be seized if Hermes wanted (via court order, lawsuit).. they also claim to be members of the BBB and are VeriSign Trusted, etc.. To say that the purchasers are more dishonest is debatable IMHO, especially if the above were true. Doug C
  11. I was just discussing this with a friend, not really knowing what you guys were discussing in this thread.. but what's your (collective) impressions of how the following company does what it does [see link]: http://www.hermesbirkinbagsgo.com/ Doug
  12. ? oh, wait a minute.. I just realized Mockingbird, that the links that you posted seem to have a few places that offer leather... so did you find what you were after? Doug C
  13. There are definitely some leather to be had in Japan.. I don't think you mentioned if you speak japanese or not (I'm thinking not though, for some reason), the problem is going to be a website that links to an English translation page.. like some of the European sites have. I remember a couple of years back coming across a japanese website for a famous tannery there that was known for it's horsehide. I apparently didn't save the link, wish I had. I'm still looking for garment horsehide, so if you come across it in your search please let me know. I can not "recommend" the leathers at the following link (because I have not bought from them), but it does appear to be a tannery website.. that I found using google language translator. So I'd say try more of that. Also, why don't you ask the folks at the 3 suppliers that you've found, if they can recommend a tannery? http://himeji.jibasan.jp/leather/category/index.html Doug C
  14. Hey Juan.. I must have posted a fraction of a second after you did. Thanks for posting that picture.. I hadn't thought about attaching with cord. I may try that first and see how I feel about it (since it's easily reversible). It's a good idea. I see relatively thicker veg tan is possible with that technique too. Doug C
  15. I left the very top 2-3" untouched, just stripped, so I wouldn't think adhesion will be a problem. Although, the Formsby stuff might cause probs.. who knows. I guess I could try the elmers.. and if that started to delaminate, I could go to the contact cement. I imagine cleaning off all the elmers would be much more do-able than the contact cement. I'll look for the wood bonding super glue, thanks for the tips guys! Doug C
  16. Having had my eye on the $200 Vergez-Blanchard stitching clam for a long time but knowing that I would not be able to drop the $200 on one for some time - I landed a BEAUTY of a used stitching clam the other day, for a fraction of the price. It's not exactly like the VB, because this one has a handle built in for prying the ends apart, the body's shorter over all and is slightly chunkier, wider. The wood it's made from is really nice though, I'm thinking walnut or possibly old growth oak.. I don't know, but certainly not pine. I stripped the old grime and shellac off of it with Formby's .. rehydrated it with tung oil.. gave it a final polish with a home made beeswax and oil mixture. It's kind of stunning now ; -) .I'd post a picture if I still had a free picture hosting account (what are you guys using ?). Anyway, I'd like to add a layer of chrome tanned leather around the two ends, to further protect the pieces being stitched. Would regular elmers glue be fine for this? Otherwise I have weldwood contact cement.. but that seems so permanent. Then again, maybe there's not a reason to think it'll ever need replacing? Also, there is a small crack I need to try and repair. It's not bad but I don't want it getting any worse. It's located on the side where the pin is (that goes thru the side, to hold the leverage handle). It's about 1/2" long, I thought I'd fold some sand paper, rub it inside the crack, fill with wood glue, clamp with a good sized pair of vise grips covered in leather as to not damage the wood. Sound about right? Doug C
  17. What, the James needles are now made in China? As I stated above, Redditch England's where my NOS pack (mentioned above) were made.. yes it's a real disappointment to hear they've gone the china route. Doug C
  18. All I can say it that they must have a supreme confidence in the "cement" they are using. I personally like the minimalist effect this technique gives. Doug C
  19. I think the Brockman was discontinued, but there is the P&S version which is basically a copy. I've been thinking of getting one of these myself. This website does not list a price, if you find out here or elsewhere - let me know please (it'll be a while 'til I can pursue getting one): http://www.pandsengraving.co.uk/other.htm Doug C
  20. It's been a long while since I made a purchase from Wickett & Craig.. but I know they had a website that worked then, now it doesn't seem to. Do they have a new web address? thanks. Doug C
  21. Hey David, check out this video, it explains pretty well how it's done. Watch from 4:10 to the end... unless I'm misunderstanding your question. I'd say if you are laminating two pieces together (flesh to flesh), the hammering would be of utmost importance. Doug C
  22. It helps to have that corner leather skived thin as possible, and then after the leather is folded over and stuck down, gently work over the area with a hammer and bone folder around the curve. Doug C
  23. David, did you ever purchase any leather from leather-online.it ? Doug C
  24. Hi - I've been seeing a lot of instances where the craftsmen working a particular piece of leather will run it past a stationary grinder machine that's obviously got a sanding wheel mounted. Besides having the spinning wheel running in parallel with the length of the edge (both leather and wheel in the vertical axis), they'll often do passes perpendicular to the wheel.. (leather piece held in a horizontal way while the wheel is spinning in a vertical axis). I alway thought doing the latter was kind of a no-no. Seems most efficient if both were in the same axis. Maybe the other way (different axises/cross grain) is best for the rough sanding? Does anyone bother doing it this way, when not using a large grinder? Also, I read on this forum the other day, someone mention that they only sand in one direction thru the total of the edge finishing. Do other subscribe to this technique? What are the advantages? Thanks. Doug C
  25. BIG help Gerry ! - any problem using a 22 or 24 needle with that 240674 feed dog? I only ask because the one I see looks like it has a tiny hole, but that could be just the picture of course. Thanks again. Doug C
  • Create New...