CustomDoug

Wait a minute.. would this piece (in the link) be all I need to be able to mount one of the drill-bit type wood burnishers onto my Bench Grinders ? This is a Chinese company (probably not the easiest to deal with regarding shipping and a wait).. is this a common item, that I could find in the states? A quick search didn't locate any using the same description. http://sell.lulusoso.com/selling-leads/1765438/Drill-Chuck-Bench-Grinder-Attachment.html

Got it, thanks Mike.

Would laying a drill press on it's back be out of the question ?

You wouldn't have a picture you could post of this set-up would you? I'm considering this over the drill press.

That seems like a great set-up Bigfoot. I like the idea of a horizontal mounted burnisher so much that I haven't made a move on getting a drill press for the job yet. I keep thinking something will pop into my head to get it mounted horizontally. Any other ideas, guys?

Thanks guys.. Gregg was right there was a color diagram on the side that cleared everything up. It's purring like a kitten again, and the plug looks nice too. I appreciate the help as alway.

Thanks Gregg - I actually mis-stated the new replacement 3 prong plug.. it's got screw terminals for black/white/green (no red), instead of white being left out as I wrote above. Since my green wire has obviously not been used (it's cut off even with no exposed wires), that leaves me to believe that it is the reverse wire. Remember I saw the motor working in it's normally installed configuration and the red wire has an exposed copper tip that's obviously been used (probably crammed down into one of those electrical outlets). If this is the case, I will have to install the red wire to the green plug terminal. I will search for a diagram but I don't recall seeing one. Anyway Leaving the reverse wire (which ever color I find that to be) out of the new plug (taping it off, inside the plug I guess) will be ok with me and I will explain the situation to any potential buyers.... or is there a way to power it also (maybe combined it with another terminal screw)? Thanks again.

I forgot to mention, it's a 110v 400watt 3450rpm Arrow clutch motor.

I've got a spare clutch motor sitting around collecting dust and thought I'd put it on craigslist and sell it. The problem is that the plug end was - somehow, someway cut off by the previous owner. He showed me the motor working with the bare wire ends just stuffed into an electrical outlet ! And the motor did work just fine. So anyway I picked up a heavy duty three prong electrical plug at Homedepot but when I got home I noticed that the cable coming from the motor is made up of 4 wires (red,black,white,green) and the electrical plug I got only has 3 screws (internally) for attaching wires. They are labeled red/black/green (no white). When I look at the ends of the wire cable only the green looks like it was not used (at least not for cramming into the electrical outlet bare), there are no exposed twisted wires on the green one. So, is there some way I can use this plug? Maybe hook the white wire up to the "green" terminal of the plug and tape off the actual green wire? Anybody have an idea? Thanks!

$300 is a great price IF it includes table/legs/motor/bobbin winder/light/thread stand/knee lifter/etc. I do not think it would be too complicated for you - as you have experience with the home machine and could probably figure this one out. The big negative (in my mind) is the lack of a reverse, it's awfully handy especially if you're used to having it. Good luck.

That's an interesting idea, I really like the being able to see the burnishing part. Thanks for the input guys, I suppose if there was such a table with a hole attachment (or whatever) you'd have to keep one hand on the lever to keep the burnisher at the correct height... unless there are presses with a locking feature? Sorry I've never owned a drill press before and don't know much about them.

I'm going to be getting myself a cocobolo edge burnisher as soon as I can and I'll be needing to get a drill press at the same time. So, my first question is this - Is there some kind of an "add on" table with a hole in it, for the burnisher to lower into, so that you can get to the desired notch in the spindle (for the various sizes of edges). This so that the leather piece is always sitting on a solid flat surface while it's edge is being rotated. Or, is everyone just suspending the piece in their hands and working it that way. Perhaps there's drill presses that have such a built in hole feature (big enough for a wooden burnisher), that I need to look for? Second question - Is there an optimum drill speed or a minimum power rating I need to look for? Thanks.

My machine takes the 134-35 needles... but like I mentioned the 135x16 system fit it too, only they are 6mm too long. Which is why I'm asking about moving the needle bar up - I should just give it a try. I thought maybe someone might know whether this would cause a problem of some kind ( like possible 135x16 incompatibility with the Pfaff 34 hook or something like that). I'll try it and see though. I've not used 207 thread up to this point so I have none on hand, will need to order some before I can retime the shuttle or open clearances - or find out if I need to. IF the machine won't do 207 without changes (like some of the 31-15s obviously will) I may just scrap the idea or settle for 138 on top, 'cause I wouldn't want to loose it's ability for smaller thread. We'll see. Thanks Wizcrafts for discussing this with me, I appreciate it.

I have made a couple purses where I used the common satin linings material like is used to line every kind of fine clothing. I just grabbed what seemed appropriate at my local fabric store but I think a thicker variety would have been better (if I planned to use this stuff again). However, I saw a bag making tutorial where they used what was called "bonded nylon" if I'm not mistaken... maybe it was bonded polyester (I can't remember). Anyway it was a thick looking material that just had a nice professional finished look to it. I'd love to source some but can't find it - does anybody know of it? Conversely, does anyone have a preference to any other lining material for purses and bags? Thanks

Here's a thread at another forum that deals with the same issue of using 207 thread in a 31-15, again it worked for this guy: http://customcowboybootsandshoesforum.com/discus/messages/23/2474.html?1119533753 . BTW, the name Doug in that thread is purely coincidental, not me. So maybe there is something to yours being an older model affecting it's ability to do so. My Pfaff 34 certainly will accept the #23, it's kind of odd that the Singer won't being as they're so similar (maybe it's my Pfaff's subclass). The point about needle deflection is a good one, I'll have to see what happens when I try it I guess. Anyway, the 207 would be the occasional project for me, where I was wanting the thread to be a prominent feature of the piece - and I wouldn't plan on the leather being any thicker than the machine is capable of. That aspect can't be fudged. Good point about the small bobbins too, but I'd only use smaller bobbin thread and these would be small pieces like wallets, coin purses and key fobs mostly. Not that you could get a ton of 138 on that bobbin either, I guess. Can you go two sizes smaller on bobbin thread or is it just one step down only?

I'm just going by the fact that Singer not only mentions a #23 needle in the operating manual for the 31-15 but also bothers to describe it's uses. A #23 needle would have us in the 207 thread range. Let me say that I understand that this is not the ideal size thread for a machine of this class and I'd assume before trying it that smaller thread in the bobbin would be a given. Anyway, this.. along with what was said in a previous thread has me feeling like it's not out of the question. In that thread, our forum moderator 'Art' mentions that the shuttle needle alignment would possibly need to be adjusted for using a size 24 or 25 needle. BUT I'm talking about using a smaller #23, and would still consider the adjustment might be necessary. Then a couple post down in that thread the original poster named 'AlcoveShop' said of his 31-15 ".. and fyi, 207 sews wonderful in this beast." Here's the thread - http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1446 . I can't say how much sewing he actually did with it, maybe not much. Anyway, do you know about the needles or the question of raising of the needle bar in the Pfaff 34 ?

Post the price.

I have an old Pfaff 34 (which is very similar to Singer 31-15, but with reverse), that I've never used before and that I need to get some needles for. I took the only needle that came with the machine (a size 100/16, system DPx35) and compared the length to a DPx17/135x17 (size 90/14). The 135x17 was about 6mm longer. Just for giggles I tried to mount it in the Pfaff, not expecting it to fit the needle clamp hole because the needle's shank is a bigger diameter than the Pfaffs original needle. To my surprise it fit just fine. I mounted it, turned the hand-wheel slowly as I thought the new longer needle would hit the hook/shuttle area and try to break... but it did not! However it did not pick up the bobbin thread either. So for the sake of keeping things standardized, would it be a problem to move the needle bar up about 6mm and just use the 135x17 system on the Pfaff? Also, I read a post here where someone had good success using size 207 thread in a Singer 31-15, as hard as that may be to believe. I'd be interested in doing the same thing on occasion with the Pfaff 34. Are these machines similar enough to assume so?

I did not know baby oil and paraffin oil were the same thing... will these oils not stain the leathers? Also, what's "white spirit"? On the same note though, I read an interesting idea somewhere that mentioned someone used a mixture of Paraffin and liquid starch in their wax pot. I assumed it was paraffin wax but now that you've mentioned it Les maybe it was oil.

The Mercury machines were a brand put out by Morse distributing who made "knock-off" Singer machines in Asia. They are no longer in business, at least the Mercury brand is not still being produced by them. There is a company out of New Zealand that uses the name Mercury for their sewing machines but it's not the same company - I contacted them not long ago about this. As far as threading it goes, it's probably fairly straight forward but not being familiar with this specific model.. it might be best that you post a series of pictures on how you have yours threaded now (a hassle, I know). Or if you can figure out what machine it is a clone of (most machines are a clone of something else), then you may find the threading procedure easier to find. Is the M-406 a walking foot machine or not? I've wondered the same thing about the Consew CS-1000 servo. Welcome to the forum!

SHARPENING BLADES! TRYING TO KEEP AN EDGE ON ANYTHING.. I never imagined that leatherwork would be so dependent on this aspect. I now would imagine that even fairly small companies would need someone dedicated to this. It seems to be a huge learning curve all it's own.

Brilliant! I like that simple straight forward take on things. However, this machine uses the 135x17/16 system and the largest I've seen those in is 25. Anyone know if they come bigger than that? If 25 is indeed the largest needle then 277 could be used tops (according to Mr. tnawrot2's theory). But then that does not mesh with the "up to #8" statement that the manual says, in anyway I can figure out. Still confused unfortunately.

Hi Eric and welcome to the forum. Now that rubber feed dawg sounds handy! Can I get one for my 45K machine?

Yes I know, and my concern is that I want to be sure that it will actually sew with 277. I doubt I'd ever go as big as 415. What has confused me is whether terms "#8", "8oz", and the metric measurement of thread, in this case ".800 millimeters" all mean the same thing. I found a spool of what I think is the thread described in the owners manual, on ebay... the description read: "100% cotton thread 8oz heavyweight Carpet, Tent". I wrote the seller and he didn't know the actual thickness numbers (so I could compare it to bonded nylon), but said it was perfect for leather, heavy tent fabric or carpet thread. So, at least this tells me that "8 oz" is thick thread. My assumption now, is that all of the above terms are the same. I'm just kind of shocked that this machine would do the thick 415 thread.

I got an answer back from the Italian company http://www.grassi-fi...sing.php?id=120, he says he's a retailer (I think he meant wholesaler) and can not sell only one item. I wrote back asking what the minimum quantity is, you'd think he would have said... also, you'd think he would have offered the names of some actual retailers who he thinks might help. If there is any. Bummer.