CustomDoug

can you elaborate on the advantage of the brushless servos please? (besides the fact that brushes wear). thanks.

, oh a "creaser"... duh. I really should have known that. Honestly, it's one of those tools I've dismissed as not necessary (or whatever), but now - I think I need to pick one up. Thanks.

What tool would be used to make those type of creases? They look pretty precise.. maybe it's a product of the press and dyes? Could you get the same effect with hand tools? I have an edge groove tool but this doesn't look the same to me.

Does anyone here have a manual manual for a Pfaff 34? Specifically it's a 34-6-28S , but any manual for the general 34 range would be helpful I'm sure. If not then how about some general info... what needles, what thickness will it sew, foot lift, etc. Is it basically a heavy duty drop feed lockstitch machine with reverse?

I emailed them several days ago and never got a reply. I figured they didn't want to mess with the special order hassle. I will try again though. Thank you.

BTW, the body of this machine is pretty much exactly like the Juki DDL-5550, if any info could be deciphered from that. The buttonhole attachment fits Singer 31-15's and a ton of other high-shank makes and models.

Hi guys, there is a Mercury "Industrial" (actually looks the part) sewing machine that I have access to for dirt cheap. It is supposedly a model# M1110 and comes with table, legs, clutch motor, thread stand, light. I can not find any info on this particular machine. I know it's not a walking foot machine so I'm assuming it's a high speed straight lockstitch machine. I would only be sewing thin leather linings or wallet interiors with it, as well as cloth interiors for bags. But I'd also want to do buttonholes with a high-shank button hole attachment that I'll be getting. Problem is... I don't know if it's a high-shank machine or not. Does anyone know? Or know of a way of telling?

I can't find any mention of left facing teeth angles on the Vergez-Blanchard website. Of course I'm finding the long list of pricking irons but none are described as being lefties. I am translating with an internet translator btw. Do you have a particular term I should use in the search area, to find them? Other than that, I was considering the price too. I wonder if a machine-shop could whip a couple of these up in a rough form and I could sharpen them?

BTW, when I say chisel I'm not thinking of the ones with the plastic or wood handles.. but more like a mason's chisel or like the punch chisels. Also, since I'm dreamin' here and willing to make it myself... I wouldn't mind it being capable of piercing completely through the leather - like the strap punches are supposed to be able to do.

I've been searching for left slanting pricking irons (aka "portmanteaus", opposite from normal ones), which is basically impossible to get, and the one's that are mentioned anywhere are over $300 for custom orders. So, I got to thinking... how hard would it be to get a good quality chisel, grind a series of 45 degree slits at specific spots and see if it works? I completely understand that it would take a huge amount of refining before the tips would be consistent. Never the less, it seems kind of do-able. If I gave it a try - could anyone recommend particular metal (of the chisels) and methods for making the cuts (as in.. grinder, dremel, etc.). Thought? General comments? thanks.

seanafk, That's a helpful bit of info, thanks. Just curious - why is there an extra $12 fee for the 532 size ?

Wow, man I'm impressed!! I like that idea, will give it a try I'm sure too. Tell me about the handle you have there.. did you make it, and how ?

Yep I believe the 'lax wax' is what it's called, though Campbell-Bosworth doesn't call it that on their site that I can see. It's just liquid paraffin wax that's water soluble, called Thread Lubricant. Spending some time cleaning will just have to be the trade off. Edvin - be sure to let us know how things go with your 45K25 when you get a chance. If you decide to go the liquid wax route, you'll need to find an old machine being parted out to get the pot. If you find one let me know - I've been looking for an original bobbin winder.

Yea I wouldn't recommend using beeswax either but this other stuff is parafin wax. The official description of this product is "Water soluble Stitching Wax". I know it's not beeswax, I'd imagine this stuff would be gentler but who knows.. I'll post my results once I've tried it. BTW, I recently read a thread here called "Reasons for using Linen" or something like that, where someone had a lot of experience using liquid wax in an older machine with good results (besides the mess). To each his own.

Dang it! all the sudden I'm finding better and closer examples of the knife I'm after. Where were these the other day? Here's an even better one than the one I just posted : http://www.grassi-figli.it/accessing.php?id=120

Well. I hope it doesn't cost too much because I've found a better looking one since writing the above, that I want more. It's from a German company and it has what looks like a scratch awl on the opposite end from the blade . See "Utility Knife MUNDUS" (the one on the left side of the page). It holds a true clicker blade as opposed to the replacement blades of the rubber handled one above. Here it is: http://www.schein.de...ge.html?marke=2 . The good news is that this website has a British (English) language option.

The 45K25 came from the factory with a wax pot or at least some did (mine has it's original still mounted as I mentioned earlier) and as Mr. Saddler said earlier, it was meant for 4 Cord Linen. So I think this is the ideal machine for what the original poster is trying to do. As for the wax "clogging up the machine"... well, I'd think you'd have to clean the tension disks, thread spring and thread retainer just above the needle on a regular basis - but the internals of the machine should not be effected in any way, assuming the bobbin thread is not waxed. Removing tension disks is not a big deal, but probably a bit of a hassle if done regularly. I still think it would be worth the effort. By the way Campbell-Bosworth sells the wax needled, it's called "Thread Lubricant" and is water soluble (can be remelted by adding hot water), they say it's good for edge burnishing too. Here's the Link: http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=lubricant&product_id=526

...... I know. Here's the closest thing I've been able to find to what I'm looking for, it's from an Italian company and doesn't give much info or a price until you register. I'm not sure yet if they'll even sent stuff internationally, but I'll see. Anyone here from Italy and be willing to proxy for me, if not? Here is the link..... http://www.actosc.it...per-tagliatore/ The description translates to: Cutter knife with rubber handle and replaceable blades. Tool needed to accurately cut all types of leather. To be used on a steel sheet zingata or even better on the stump for cutter. Replacement blades in packs of 100. Cutter knife to skin . Register to see prices and purchase products!

The link only took me to the search page.. which I'd used before starting this thread. I did use the word 'portmaneau' this time though (thanks for that) and found a couple of threads but no mention of where to get them. I thought I understood that saddleries in various countries (France, Italy, etc) often sew stitches in the opposite direction to what the US does. I know a pricking iron is not absolutely necessary (awls can be angled differently) but seems like they'd be at least offered by some European makers. Who'd be a go to for a custom one?

Edvin - also make sure you are installing the needle with the long vertical slit (I forget the name of it... fid?) to the left hand side. The smaller "notch" where the eye of the needle is, should be on the right hand side.

You didn't say which needle you are using in this video and pictures but you said you got the following with the purchase of the machine. A 200 needle would be for #207-#277 poly thread, A 180 needle would be for #138-#207 poly thread, A 160 needle would best be for #138. Three cord linen thread is equivalent to between #138-#207 poly thread SO.... try it again but this time use the needle that says "160" on it. Let us know how that does. 4 cord linen is equivalent to #207-#277 poly (your 200 needle for that). 6 cord linen is like #346 poly thread, just for reference. BTW, $400 for that machine in it's condition seems like a great deal to me. BTW, I think the linen choice is going to be nice, though most others will probably disagree for reasons related to strength. It should look nice, but it looks like you're using unwaxed thread so you may want to mount a wax pot on the top of the machine.. then have to get some wax and add it to your pot. This will strengthen the seem a lot.... may even be necessary for the linen thread to run in this machine correctly (I don't know for sure). I've been planning to do the same and just haven't gotten around to it yet, though I already have the original wax pot. As for now, try the smallest needle.

Thanks Gump, here's the link to that ref guide: http://groz-beckert.com/website/media/en/media_master_376_low.pdf . They seem to agree with Schmetz on the angle of LL and LR. Unfotunately they both contradicting with Campbell-Bosworth. Does Campbell produce their own needles? If not, who's do they sell? They seem to use the same illustrated symbol to describe the hole made, but they are labeled opposite. Can someone check to see if I'm not looking at this wrong? thanks.

I'm looking for a pricking iron maker who produces an iron that makes a "left to right downhill" shaped hole... which is opposite of all the others I find and/or have bought. I want the hole to be high on the left side. Does anyone know of a source? Thanks.

That "S" needle made stitch you did looks a lot straighter than the picture on Campbell-bosworth page where the thread looks more like //// (which is what I'm after). Thanks for posting that picture, I'd love to see others with their personal work done using the other needles. Unfortunately Campbell-bosworth and Schmetz are contradicting each other. I wish I could get one of each including S and maybe another or two besides the LL and LR - just to know for sure.

Thanks Tom (et al)... unfortunately it looks like the "seam appearance" picture (on the Schmetz pdf) of the LR/RTW (as well as it's corresponding LBR & WD R TW) needle is wrong. It shows those threads sewn in an LEFT side LOW - RIGHT side HIGH pattern, which is what the LL needle should be producing [////]. It's done correctly on the Campbell-bosworth page btw. The "seam appearance" picture of the LL needles on the schmetz pdf is hard to make out but it appears to angle opposite of what it should, ever so slightly.