CustomDoug

oh sorry, it's the newer Consew 277RBFS [not the 227] - it's a narrow cylinder arm machine with synchronized binder that uses a large bobbin (M), presser foot lift is 1/2" w/ foot pedal. The guy that has it tells me that he's only used 207 thread in it but that he hasn't tried larger thread and is not sure what the maximum is. The manual that he has says "Thread: silk, cotton or synthetic thread can be used in this machine. Uses up to #8 thickness. Always use left twist thread for the needle and left or right twist for the bobbin."

I'm looking at a machine who's operating manual says, in regards to thread - "Use up to #8 thickness" - I'm seeing from a quick search that this roughly equals a size 415. Can there be another meaning to the quoted size #8? Because this particular machine, I would not expect it to sew with that thickness of thread.. but I could be wrong.

Ferg, I really like the handle you made in the above pictures - great job. I also agree with you on the big round handles as wrong for cutting, specifically precise cutting. When you watch those European artisans, you can tell they have the knife figured out. I sent an email to the Brazilian company that Moody posted, we'll see if they write back but I'm not too confident that they will.

Yea but I think Mr. Dirtclod has the right idea for you, it's just that you'll want to modify the dowel. It'll need to have a long groove down the middle of it, so that the small pins will no stop the bobbin from being mounted. I can think of a couple different ways of doing this off the top of my head. Split a dowel down the center, use a belt sander of something to narrow the inside parts of each side (just the length of the bobbin), then glue them back together at the shaft area with wood glue. Or maybe use a bandsaw to create the groove down the center of the dowel. How about those bamboo chopsticks that you usually try to break apart before using? But don't separate them, perhaps they'd work. As someone told me on this forum the other day, "use your ingenuity."

By the way Moody - this is the knife I like the best, it seems to have a built in scratch awl on one end, which would be real handy : http://www.grassi-fi...sing.php?id=120 I wrote them (translated) and never got a reply. Are you anywhere near Italy, and could forward one of these knives to me (for a commission) ? Please let me know. Thanks ~ Doug

I haven't purchased mine yet despite finding the info so many weeks back.. I'd written a couple of places and gotten no response. I wonder which place would be most cooperative to US buyers, any idea?

Hi Moody, welcome to the forum! I started a thread a few weeks ago about these trimming knives. I believe that is the "L'indispensable" made by vergez-blanchard (or some other version of it). Here's the link to my thread (ignore the first page, go to the second): Clicker Knife . And here's one place that I found that sells it, where are you located? http://www.decocuir....p?ItmID=9980813

Holster making is going to take a machine that will do multiple layers of thick leather, if I'm not mistaken. I wouldn't expect any of the home machines to handle it. Check our classifieds, I have a machine there that would do the job and there are several Tippman machines that would be good too.

Thanks Ron - do they both use the same line of pressor feet and accessories (Singer 111w) ?

When comparing cylinder arm machines - how do the techsew 2603 machines compare with the 227/2700 machines? Would be used to sew handbags, purses, wallets (large and small), several types of caps and hats, jackets and vests, belts, and possibly some upholstery. Does anyone have a preference for the smaller diameter of the cylinder on the 2603, or is that more of a non-issue. Not sure why, but I seem to lean towards the smaller cylinder. What's the maximum thread size each will sew consistently? What about thickness of material?

Here's the website - kbar463, can you comment on what they offer as far as raw material go.. sides, hides, species, tannages, etc? Their website only mentions their finished goods. http://ludwigsleather.com/

For Sale: A 1919 model Singer 45K25 cylinder arm machine in good working order. This machine is the workhorse that has been a staple used in tack and saddle shops for ever. It is to my understanding basically the same machine as a modern GA5-1 and therefor will use many of it's parts such as pressor feet etc - I've been told (I haven't actually bought any and tried ). This machine comes with one pressor foot (a left side zipper type foot). It would benefit from a roller style pressor foot which I would definitely add if keeping it. There is no leather belt on it for the foot treadle, but they're pretty cheap - however, it does work fine by the hand wheel as it is. There are 4 or 5 extra bobbins and a handful of needles included. The original cast iron treadle and bi-level table top are in good condition as is the head of the machine too. There is some chipped paint as you'd expect from a machine of this age. The treadle has a nice original wooden pitman-arm (see pic). I'm located in Dallas, TX. and would rather not ship though I would consider it. I could also possibly deliver it to the Wichita Falls roundup show that is coming up soon too. Note - the picture of the stitches included adjustments to the stitch lengths. See my other add for a Singer Patcher. I'm Asking $700 for this machine. Let me know if anyone needs more pics or if I can answer any questions about it. Thanks ~ Doug

Mods - please delete this particular thread. I accidently posted it twice. Sorry for that.

Oh, I wanted to post a pic of the stitch it makes -

For Sale: a 1945 (if I recall correctly) Singer long arm patcher machine, model 29K60. This is one of the models with the larger bobbins (several extras are included as well as an extra pressor foot). I've installed a small but powerful motor to assist with long straight runs. It works great but two small issues I want to make known is that the pivot bolt for the hand lever on the back is not original (just the bolt) but the lever works well and raises the pressor foot just fine.. and secondly, the darning tensioner is missing from the front of the head - I've never had a need for this feature but they can be sourced fairly easily. I'm located in Dallas, TX and would prefer not to ship, though I may consider it anyway. Also, I could possibly deliver this machine to the Wichita Falls, TX show that's coming up soon. Asking $700. I can get more pics if needed or answer questions if anyone has any. Thanks ~ Doug

For Sale: a 1945 (if I recall correctly) Singer long arm patcher machine, model 29K60. This is one of the models with the larger bobbins (several extras are included as well as an extra pressor foot). I've installed a small but powerful motor to assist with long straight runs. It works great but two small issues I want to make known is that the pivot bolt for the hand lever on the back is not original (just the bolt) but the lever works well and raises the pressor foot just fine.. and secondly, the darning tensioner is missing from the front of the head - I've never had a need for this feature but they can be sourced fairly easily. I'm located in Dallas, TX and would prefer not to ship, though I may consider it anyway. Also, I could possibly deliver this machine to the Wichita Falls, TX show that's coming up soon. Asking $700. I can get more pics if needed or answer questions if anyone has any. Thanks ~ Doug

Notice from the original picture that's on the first page of this thread... the stitching of the handle attachments are going in the opposite direction to Hermes traditional stitch. They look hand stitched to me but in the angled in the opposite direction that hermes does their straight-line saddle-stitch. Is that normal for them ?

It's the 4-3/4" splitter blade of Tandy's small "High-tech" bench mounted splitter. I'll see if I can find any specific details for sharpening splitter blades. That angle on the tip is really small though.

WOW! That video is awesome, very helpful. I learned alot and will keep it as reference. No, my HF hones are way off those numbers... we're talking #200, #300, #400 @ #600. I do have some 1500 wet dry sand paper though. I suppose I could use that as a final before the strop-ing for the time being.

Thanks you guys. I'll proceed with the soapy water then. As far as the actual using of these stones... do I just try to follow the beveled angle of the very tip of the blade (1/16" apprx)? I mean the main angled part needs no attention, does it? I'm off to research strops now.

..oh, btw - that reviewer said that the oil dissolves the glue. I'm not trying to have that happen if I can help it.

I picked up some Diamond Hone Blocks from Harbor Freight for my sharpening duties.. a couple of the reviewers (on their website) mentioned that their diamond surfaces delaminated from their heavy duty alloy steel frames. Another reviewer (who loved these hones) mentioned that this delamination was probably due to them using OIL for lubricating, said that was a no-no. He supposedly used dishsoap and water. I'd be concerned with that on metal blades, wouldn't it cause rust or oxidation? Is there a better lubrication I should get? thanks.

Thanks tnawrot2, from watching that video.. the guy says that the one vertical thumb screw (on the bottom) controls the thickness of the skive (or split), and that the two thumb screws on the back side are used to adjust the roller under the blade. If that's the case, then are there situations when those two thumb screws would need to be adjusted once set the first time? Or are they set and that's pretty much it? thanks again. BTW - man my blade must be dull, I was practically pulling the table away from the wall !

Hi, I got a second hand "Hi-tech splitter" (tandy hand-pull type 4", bench mounted) the other day from one of our other members and I just got around to messing with it.. It didn't come with a manual and I didn't think I'd be needing one seeing as how simple it seems. But.... I'm a little embarrased to admit I can't figure out how to make it work. Well, I'm pretty sure it needs to be sharpened (that's a whole other subject I'm researching). But besides that, I'm a little confused by how the adjustments are supposed to be made. The other thing, is that there seems to be a slightly wider gap between the blade and the roller. This wouldn't make for even splitting I wouldn't imagine. I can only see that gap when I work the roller's lever btw, as I can't seem to create a gap there by just moving any of the knobs. Can anyone explain some to me what I'm doing wrong? Sorry for the amateurish problem. Thanks.

WOW!