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@ mikesmith648, I checked youtube first but after watching a couple of pretty long videos that ended up having nothing to do with the stitch patterns I gave up.. do you know of a specific one I need to see out of that list? @ greystone, those campbell-bosworth links are very helpful - Thanks a ton.

I'm trying to decide between the LL and LR shaped machine needles for leather and was wondering and hoping that I could see some examples of the stitch patterns that they lay down. I read somewhere that Schemtz made these needles and supposedly there were videos showing these patterns (among all the various different points they offer), but I can not find it on their website. Does anyone know of the link? Also, are there any other brands I should look to? Pictures possibly? Mostly looking for the 135x16 system in various sizes. Thanks in advance.

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Wow Art, that's quite the collection of scalpels you have. Thanks for posting that. I'm sure I'll end up with a few of those too down the road. I'm thinking I'll give the clicker blade idea a go first. Thanks everyone.

I'm looking at a machine that is described as having a "combined top and needle feed" mechanism for feeding the material. What is that exactly? Seems pretty obvious that there are no feed dogs on the bottom but I thought the needle feed was considered "top feed".. this machine's description makes it clear that it's something else. So, does the foot move in a way that advances the material separate from the needle? If so, how? Also.. would a machine like this probably use a grooved foot and therefor mark the top of leathers easily (I'd mostly use it for thin chrome tan leather, wool and canvas). Thanks in advance.

If this is the one you're talking about from Warren https://warrencutlery.com/store/product-info.php?pid185.html, then that's a really good price to include 6 separate blades! I would prefer the longer handle ones though and I'm not seeing any on that site. Hmm at that price, maybe I "need" both kind .

Where are you located ?

Hi Chuck, I also like the longer bladed type more (from just a 'looks' standpoint) as it's more similar to what I've seen in those videos... Do those also fit into the handles posted? That seems like it would not be proportionate (long blade ,short handle). So, maybe there's another handle option? Or some DIY option - like wrapping pliable metal around it and flattening with a mallet. Freeze the following video at 19 seconds for a good look at what I'm looking for:

@ Art - I know nothing of scalpels (imagine that ).. are there any handles that are similar in shape to a carpenter's pencil (which just seem perfect to me for some reason), or do you have a preference that you'd share when it comes to these things? It seems that blades are interchangable on some and and not so on others (are those just olders ones?). Thanks .

I've been watching a few videos that show detailed pattern's (think fine Italian shoes and bags) being cut out using what looks like a thin handled knife with a long-ish pointy exacto blade. The handle of this knife seems to be shaped flat like a carpenters pencil. Anyone have an idea where I could get something like this? It looks good for very detail patterns in thin leather with lots of turns and corners. I'd be willing to try and replicate it if need be - I need to look into whether exacto makes long blades, or are there other (better) choices? The closest I came to finding a similar object in my searches, is a knife called a "clicker knife" but most of those have a thin hooked blade. Does anyone have any experience with those?

That super skiver sounds like it could be pretty useful - I was thinking of getting one of those putty knife looking skivers (with the angled end) from goodsjapan to do edge skiving.

OK I need to invest in some tools to help me thin down leather.. and I'm confused by a few things. I've been reading all the related threads but honestly I end up just feeling more confused. I'm making bags and some of the straps etc would benefit from thinning as would the seem edges (for sewing a multiple junction area). 1. Is there a difference between a skiver and a splitter ? My understanding is that splitting is done on a whole piece of leather (no matter how small it is) often because the rough "suede" texture is desired, while skiving is just thinning down an edge or a section of a piece for the sake of getting a thinner version of the finished leather you're using... I'm I off on this? 2. What are my options for thinning (skiving) just an edge of leather - like the seem allowance on chrome tanned upholstery leather (handbag, chap leather) ? 3. What's the difference in the "3in1's" and the "5in1's" bench mounted hand cranked machines? and will they thin down just the edge of leather or will they only skive a whole piece? Will they even skive chrome tanned leather? 4. What's the best value in those bench mounted skivers (skive only) and do any of them do both whole piece and just edges too ?

Is there any reason this fusible stabilizer would not work on chrome tanned leathers too? Does it fuse to it as well as it does to canvas and cloth? thanks.

Good tip on the press rather than iron.. I'll keep it in mind. And I hear ya on the gummed up needle situation too. @ Red3 - I think bondtex is carried by Tandy too if I'm not mistaken, and I have a sale coupon for this month (and there's one close) so I may stop in and pick up a sheet just for the heck of it. I'd thought of that earlier but from my memory of it, I thought it was too thick for my needs. But that's just based on a 3 second glance at it from about a year ago. Before I thought I might need it for anything. I'll check again. What glue would be best for it? It is probably going to be cheaper though to use the fusing mentioned earlier I'd think, if needed on a regular basis. We'll see.. thanks for everyone's input.

Thanks for that Sylvia !! So.. the ironing thing is pretty much permanent, is it? Do you know if it becomes effected by moisture such as rain or anything? I suppose scotchguard would probably be a good idea on the outside anyway. But just curious.

I've made a few canvas totes (w/leather trim) lately and they look pretty good but I'd like to give them a little body. They collapse like a wet noodle when set down. I know that's usually the nature of the beast when talking canvas totes but I was wondering if there was anything I could do to combat this a little bit. Perhaps there's some kind of fusing material that could go between the outer shell and lining? I assume there would be sheets of something used for this purpose but I know nothing about it - how would it be applied (spray glue, etc?) ? Thanks for any suggestions!

Is there a thread/needle size that's best for sewing the acetate and leather together? Seem's like you could go too big pretty easily. Is that not the case?

Hi jdbfish - not sure if you ever picked up a machine but I noticed that you said you were in Temple, TX and I thought I'd mention that I'm in Dallas and I've got a 'Consew 18' walking foot sewing machine that I'm going to be selling pretty cheap. It's a flat bed machine and comes with table, clutch motor and some extras. It works great and is in good condition. You're welcome to come up and try it out.

Ah, I can see from the lack of pictures of that 31-32, that it going to be a rare bird indeed. Anyone know what the progression was, what Singer replaced the 31 class machines with? @ Amuckart... what's the specific model Pfaff that you were talking about? I may try to find someone in the states to send one of my attachments to, to try it on for size (assuming it's not a terribly rare model).

I was just wondering if anyone knew whether Singer (or any other company) made a machine like the 31-15 but with reverse? So, that is to say specifically that it would take the same SINGER HIGH-SHANK attachments as the 31-15. Perhaps it's not possible, I haven't tried to wrap my mind around it, regarding the feed mechanism, etc. Maybe someone knows off the top of their head?

those are what the Singer and Adler company copied to make their 29/30 line of patchers right?

Wait, did I miss something - which one are you getting? and which is Luke suggesting? .. guide #2 ?

The kwokhing website is pretty non-specific with it's description (which might be a good thing in some ways).. but do you suppose the 45K and GA5-1 would be considered part of their "Small Sized Cylinder Bed Machines" ?

Thanks Trox for that info. This page in particular has binders for "leather and thick material": leather binders .. can we assume that the thick material they're talking about is the tape to be used and not the material that the binding will be incasing? EDIT - the link I posted is not working to link to the leather/thick binders, but under "applications" you can see it.