CustomDoug

I keep thinking about getting one of these glue containers that the European artisans always have near by. They seem like a good idea because they apparently protect the brush with it's cap/lid covering. Is there a good place to get them in the States? Campbell-Randall show them but are out of all three sizes.

never mind, I got this figured out finally.. well, not really figured out but the number was mysteriously accepted as I had tried it a few times before - website glitch I guess.

Does anyone know how my American cell phone number would be written in French? I'm trying to place an order for some leather tools on a French website and this detail is holding up the progress.. I've tried it all sorts of ways. Anybody know how it's done?

Ouch, so the Mando tips are $95 each! I think 3 would be a minimum really. So there's $300 of it. The Campbell-Bosworth stuff suddenly seems a lot smarter. But btw, the Janik units have a ton of external element tips that can be used with them.. here's some http://www.patrickfa...aphy/wpage5.htm the #23 Flat and the T20 knife edge might be usable for leather?

Andrew, did you ever get the above tool from Campbell-Bosworth? Seems like your order has taken a long time, is there a since that that's only because it was a first for them? How much are the Mando tips and handles separately? Because honestly those wooden and cork handles seem like they'd be better to hold the handle so that you could use more downward pressure while creasing an edge. The Janik S2 (single unit w/ 4 step heat control) is about $111 USD [70 GPB] plus shipping. I think the Mando single unit power box is about $240 - and with the Janik S2 you get the handle that looks like it accepts the same tips as the Mando unit, the mount feral looks the same. Ideally the Campbell tips would work too, though Campbell may have used a different mounting system I'm not sure. Surely their 'in-house' tips fit the Italian Bimac machines since they carry those (more expensive) units too. BTW, looking at both the units (Mando and Janik) it appears that the handle inputs are the same (two small round hole plug) as opposed to the unit that Campbell is putting together (normal pronged elec plug). So, that would make adding the Mando wooden handles to the Janik unit possible. The Mando single power unit is 16v max while the Janik S2 is 12v max and both are adjustable. Would 12v make enough heat? I think so but it's just a guess based on the fact that these machines are probably not run at max for everything they do. As I see it, the 'smart money' method for obtaining this tool would be: 1) Buy a Janik S2 2) Purchase tips from Mando 3) Eventually update the Janik handle to the Mando handles (as funds permit).

I was thinking if sanding by hand, I'd try the flexible sanding blocks (kind if like a hard sponge permanently wrapped in sand paper) - anyone used these for this purpose?

small drum sander is the preferred tool after the hand-held edger tool ?

Wouldn't the hand held "edging tool" be fine for rounding the edges and eliminate the need to sand? - I know there are several tools generically referred to as 'edging tools' but I forget the official name, I'm talking about the ones that take off the square parts of an edge. Couldn't you just run one of those along the edge then burnish?

Wow, the scientific method ! ; ) That's good info. Sounds like the 52" (flexible tape wrapped around the top of both pulley's) was the correct number... and that those belts are measured around the outside diameter. Thanks.

Hi, I'm going to be picking up a v-belt for an industrial cylinder arm machine with a servo that has a small pulley (50mm) installed. I have the motor mounted and sitting in what looks to be the perfect angle (the relationship between the foot pedal and servo arm linkage). When I put a flexible measuring tape around both pulleys (not down in the grooves) I get 52"... when I fit a length of twine around and "into" both pulleys, I get 49". I know there is plenty of adjustment to the motor but since these belts are readily available in all sizes [48,49,50,51,52,etc], and I like where everything is sitting now, which length would you get? I'm thinking 50" would be the best - but I'm not sure if the stated belt sizes are measured around the outside or inside? They look to be about 1/4" thick. thanks.

Thanks wizcrafts, I had no idea they might have it.. but will check out the Homedepot in my neighborhood later today.

Does anyone know the size of chain that best suits the foot pedal lifters? The hole in the back of my machine that the chain travels through looks to be about 8.5mm across. Looking at the McMaster-Carr website it looks like thees would be the "sash chains". Unfortunately, according to the drawing diagram on their page, the width is measured at the chain's narrowest part (which is strange)... so if I get an 8mm width is wouldn't fit.. and on top of that they come in standard sizes like "8,12,25,60,etc". Does anyone know which are correct? http://www.mcmaster.com/#sash-chain/=k3zkqq Thanks.

Hey guys I'm really liking the idea of an arbor press for setting the NON-copper rivets, spots and snaps (maybe copper rivets too??). Forget the 1/2ton - there is a 1 ton on sale at Harbor Freight right now for $48 dollars. A machine shop will need to drill a few holes in it but it's still much cheaper than one of the hand presses from Tandy etc.. and more versatile. Here's a great video on the subject (if you can sit through the long LaBron James add at the beginning), it's worth a watch. Arbor Press for Leather and Kydex Work . I think I may get one of these. I just wish there was some way of adding a spring back feature to the lever, but oh well.. I just wish there was some way of adding a spring back feature to the lever, but oh well.

Nah, you didn't get under my skin, I appreciate your input. I like the idea of "doming" the flat side of the copper rivet though on certain items. Here's the description from Sheridan ... " This tool domes the head of copper rivets to give your work a finished, professional look. " I think I'd get a small 'cupped' anvil (normally used for double capped rivets) and drill a hole in the center so I could use this "rivet domer" tool more effectively though. BTW... I'm wondering if this tool, the "rivet domer" is the same tool as a 'rapid rivet setter' used on the tubular double cap rivets? It looks the same but the domer may be more concave, not sure about that.

FWIW - I've been referring to this tool made by Douglas tools (and I assume other) ever since Art posted the link to Sheridan Leather http://www.sheridanleather.com/Rivet_Domer_p/dt-domer.htm . Sheridan sells a three piece set of copper rivet tools for $55 that includes a "rivet domer". SO yes the copper rivets come flat to begin with BUT you can dome the head side for a different look. That's all.

I feel bad that you wrote all that TwinOaks - maybe I didn't make it clear enough that I understood how the whole things work.. I already did, but thanks anyway. What I was asking about was the "domed set(ter)" that makes a dome on the opposite side.. the large head side. What I'm questioning is : when the assembled rivet is turned over (peened stud side down) wouldn't you need some kind of anvil with a hole in the middle (to accomodate the peened stud) while the "Dome setter" is doing it's job? Otherwise it seems to me that the dome on the rivet could come out crooked - because it's all teetering on the tip of the peened stud underneith.

Hi Art, I like that little Wonder, I need to look into it. One question though.. when using the other tool(s) - for setting copper rivets (3 pieces Douglas tools) what happens to the side that you've clipped and peened when you have it flipped over to use the rivet "doming" punch on the other side? Seems like it would need to sit in an anvil with a hole in the center (to accomdate the peened stem). Otherwise, the dome side may come out crooked, no?

Yea, I knew how the copper set worked but I wasn't sure if the hand press could do the operation too, and whether a dye was available for both parts of the procedure - thus negating the need to buy the small hammering tool. Doesn't sound like that's possible though. I guess it doesn't matter, I was just trying to get as much done with the machine which I want to get anyway. Are there much difference in the new hand presses compared to the cheap old used ones you find on ebay? I guess finding out the hole size for the dyes is crucial. Also, do either utilize a dye on the top part for certain operations? If so, how's that held in (threaded maybe)?

Really? I'm surprised.. you're saying that hand press at Springfield and Tandy is too light weight for copper rivets and burrs? But earlier you linked to a smallish (I assume) hammer punch kind of setter at Tandy.. but also say that you would not use anything less than an arbor press.. I think I may have gotten confused. Do you or have you used the tandy punch style setter? Also, I know nothing about arbor presses.. but Harbor Freight has a 1/2 ton one for $35 in your opinion would this be suitable for setting copper rivets into leather? http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html Thanks you guys.

I mostly agree but there are some items where "double cap" rivets are esthetically better for finer items. So.. one of these hand presses for double cap rivets and a hammer type "set" for the copper rivet and burr... OR does anyone know for sure if the copper rivet and burr style can or can't be clipped and peened after setting with a hand press? I ask, because I've used the hammer style "sets" on snaps and eyelets/grommets with less than perfect results. Which is a big reason I started looking for a better option.

I'm not finding an individual tool (single item) used for rivets when searching their site with the fraise "rivet set". Maybe you were meaning the "Rivet Setter" which pops up a single item (that you strike with a hammer) but I think even that needs an anvil under it. Regardless... I think what I'm most interested in is the bench mounted hand press type rivet setter http://springfieldleather.com/30137/Press%2CHand/ , of course you can get old used ones on ebay for much cheaper (usually Rex brand etc).. but I'm confused by it. Are extra pieces needed to do a variety of rivet sizes (like various die or whatever) - does anyone know? Springfield's add mentions a die for line 20 snaps but what about the various rivet sizes? And if so, could those pieces still be sourced somewhere?

Yea I guess the pop-riveter probably isn't the way to go then.. I want it to look nice on both sides. Now, the ones on that Holster look great! What do you use to set them with?

I've been in Harbor Freight a couple times lately... and keep wondering about the hand riveters and wondering if they'd be any use with leather. Rivets seem like a whole can of worms in general to me and I need to research what kind of rivets I'd even need to get but I'm thinking of stuff like copper rivets, etc (like on jeans and boots but on leather in general). Various sizes of rivets would be important - Does anyone know if those hand held riveters at HF would work for this? Until I can get a more professional one any way.

I'm sure my grinder's shaft is not bent - I can not detect any unevenness when just running it without anything mounted. Those two extra adapter pieces are though. I just held the adapter combo to a straight edge and it's obvious. So I went ahead and ordered the toolfetch adapter. I'll report on how it works out. It's coming from the NY area so, with this current storm situation I'm afraid it'll be a while before it arrives. I just hope our forum members from that area have kept themselves safe!

Wow Tom that balancing technique is a brilliant idea. I would never have come up with that. Thanks! I'm thinking that since this setup from TOOLFETCH is made for this sort of thing, a lot of the imbalance will have been engineered out of it. Actually, when just watching the shaft of my grinder rotate it looks very straight (of course added length will accentuate the slightest bit). But the two parts I got from the industrial bolt supplier were not intended for the use of rotating mass as a team. If you look at it the male threaded piece seems very straight on it's own.. but the long hex piece was obviously drilled and tapped at a slight angle. So causing the unevenness when put together. Here's one more thought - would it be feasible to shorten the grinder shaft's threads (cut part of them off with a cut-off wheel) and also shorten the 5/8-11 end of the hex piece from toolfetch ?