CustomDoug

OK I'm back on this (sorry).. and I think I'm getting closer. I bought a low RPM (1725) 8" bench grinder off craigslist local for cheap (it's made by woodcraft). Unfortunately it's got a 5/8" shaft with 11tpi threads on the end or "5/8-11". This thread count is fairly rare, and I can find no drill chucks to match it (lord knows I've tried). So today I went to a local industrial bolt supplier and picked up a long hexagonal nut (3" or so) that has female 5/8-11 threads on one end and female 1/2-13 on the other (to be the first piece after my Grinder's shaft). I also got a short length of threaded stock that's male 1/2-13 on one end (to fit into the end of the hex adapter) and 1/2-20 (for the chuck to mount onto) on the other. Harbor Freight has a threaded drill chuck with that thread count for $10 that I want to use if possible. The problem is that when I mount the two adapter pieces onto my Grinder's shaft there is a quite obvious unbalanced thing going on (the adapters are not completely straight together). I thought of heating the assembly up until glowing red and then whacking the top of the threaded end (with a nut mounted to protect the threads) to correct the alignment. OR.. I found the following website's adapter that looks kind of right and is described the way I think it should but I'm not sure - does it seem like the right item to ya'll? I don't know why there's two hex pieces there and that's kind of throwing me. Also not sure if that small threaded side is long enough to mount the chuck. http://www.toolfetch...s/541404609.htm What do you think?

A Consew 227R is the closest to your machine with reverse, it's based on your machine.. I don't think you'll find anyone that'll tell you the reverse parts will fit, because more than likely it's never been tried. And they may not work, but I suspect they would. It'd be a risky and expensive experiment though. I always wonder why Singer didn't eventually make any of their popular workhorse machines with reverse - they could have, the Asian clones companies prove it was a viable endeavor.

I'm saying I BELIEVE they are the exact same machines as the RB, if there is a difference I don't know what it would be. I can tell you though that they DO indeed use the same feet, as any 206 machine is going to use the same feet as the Singer 111w*** machines, which is what they are a copy of. That portable version that was mentioned earlier, the CP206R will share the same feet as a Singer class 16 or a Consew 18 walking foot machines. HTH.

I've wondered about this too - I've had two of these machines, the plate on the front of both of them said "206R" but the manuals that came with both said "For 206RB and 206RB-1". The "R" is usually for reverse and is in this case I'm sure. With Consew the "B" often stands for binder attachment (though my 206's didn't come with any special binder features). I have a Consew cylinder arm machine who's designation is "RBFS" and is a Reverse Binder Feed Synchronizer system. So, not sure what the B is for on the 206's but I also believe they are the same machines too.

We're pretty much on the same page I think... I have a "high speed" (slowed down with a servo) high shank industrial straight stitch machine (essentially a Juki DDL-5550) for sewing very thin fabric liners such as acetate and satin as well as linens and cottons. Then I have the Pfaff 34 for doing thin leather work or where thinner thread is needed (leather wallet linings, coin purses, etc) plus decorative scroll work with the roller wheel. Then I have this Consew 287R for everything else (upholstery, leather handbags, caps etc.). I will eventually be getting a 441 clone for doing the thicker items that the 287R can not handle. No rush for that though as I have enough on my plate before tackling holsters and harnesses. Oh, and I actually plan to get one of those real cheap Chinese patchers soon too, for double topstitched cylinder shaped items. So, yeah a variety of machines but kept to a minimum is my goal. The 441 clone up front would have been nice (I do get that they'll do a larger variety of things), but the reality is that I could never afford the big price hit all at one time, besides I like having the small thread in a separate machine and having fewer adjustments when switching between tasks.

Apparently it's used for heavy duty carpet and tent work too. You may be right but I feel confident that this machine will do the thick #8 cotton, since the manual names it specifically. I don't know what you mean by "compressed material", it's intended to do leather work according to the manufacturer but I wasn't planning it to take the place of an Adler 205 or one of the 441 clones that are so popular around here - if that's what you were meaning. I asked the question about the thread before buying so that I understood it's limits before the purchase. BTW, #277 thread is not a problem. I actually ended up getting the 287RBFS which is the same machine but with a regular size cylinder arm as opposed to the above mentioned 277RBFS' narrow arm. This machine is basically a chunkier 227 or 2700 cylinder arm machine but with Consew's "centra-lube" semi-automatic lubrication system (probably the reason for most if not all of it's chunkier profile). They are made for: Suitable for sewing such products as caps, cushions, boots, shoes, auto, boat and furniture upholstery, tarpaulins, covers, sails, tents, awnings, umbrellas, tops, bags, luggage, handbags, travelware, accessories, sports and camping equipment, wearing apparel, orthopedic appliances, slippers, etc. This is what I'll be sewing with it. Thanks as always.

OK upon further research - I found the link to the buffer's manual and the end nuts that hold on your buffing pad, etc is 1/2"-12 . So I'd have to see if an adapter is available somewhere I guess. The motor parts break down shows a "Rotor , spindle, and housing", uses a capacitor, circuit breaker - I see no mention of windings or brushes.

I just noticed that the Jacobs chuck has a 1/2"-20 thread count... I have no idea what the buffer's thread count is though. They did look awfully course though. I suppose a thread adapter could be sourced if nothing else. Here's the chuck: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-jacobs-keyed-chuck-45731.html

Original Poster here.. I wanted to get you guy's opinions on this possible motor set up to do my burnishing (remember I'm wanting a horizontally mounted burnisher). Harbor Freight has a 6" bench mounted buffer for $40, it has a 1/2" threaded arbor. Plus Harbor Freight also has an electrical plug thing that's called a "Router Speed Control" which essentially turns any "AC/DC Brush type motor" into a variable speed unit. You plug this into the wall then the buffer into this and it has a speed control knob on the front. Here are the two items: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html and http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html . This would make the 3450rpm buffer run at a slower speed, if they'll work together... the 6" electric buffer would be a "brush type motor" wouldn't it? . HF also has a universal Jacob bit drill chuck BUT I have no idea what the thread pattern is on it and whether it would thread onto the Buffer's arbor.. so I don't want to get it without knowing. Thoughts, comments on this set up ? Thanks.

Hi Rich, you do realize you can turn the speed up on the motor for the bobbin winding, right? Just reach down under the table, turn the knob on the end of the motor all the way to the faster sider, wind your bobbins then adjust it back to where you were. Hope that helps.

No, I have the exact same set up that you have on your 31-15. The problem is that I bought those when I had a 31-15 and now I have a Pfaff 34 (which is essentially the same machine but with a reverse). Unfortunately the single row feed dog and associated needle plate won't fit the Pfaff (slight difference). I can use the actual roller that I've already got - but why even bother to get Pfaff's version of the single row feed dog and plate if it's not necessary. Which is what I'm trying to figure out. Thanks.

That bench is showing $159 when I check the website, rather than $129. Regardless, that's a good deal! I'm going to head over there tomorrow and pick up one of those rotary punches.. I've been needing one forever. Will get that $7.50 air die grinder too while I'm there. I need the die grinder for mechanical things but I wonder if it could be used with a dremel burnisher bit instead of a dremel rotary type tool? Or maybe it would be too fast.. Thanks for the heads up.

Are there certain instances when the Single Row feed dogs are a better choice with the roller style presser feet or are they pretty much always going to be the best bet when using a roller foot? Why?

Yea, better get him to send you some machine oil and needles too... I hear he's the only one that's got any.

Oh my god, this should be labeled the "Call Bob Kovar" forum sub-section. Bob's a great guy, extremely helpful and I personally like him very much but come on.. there are better more thoughtful answers. Ramrod, these guides are not manufacturer specific, you can find them many places including ALL of our sewing machine sponsors.. amongst other obvious places. There are the ones that screw into the bed of the machine (see two small holes next to the needle plate?) and magnetic ones too. As a matter of fact any foot that a Singer 111 uses will work on your machine (for future reference), so you can use that term to do searches if so inclined. Of course the sponsors will hook you up quicker with no need for the research. hope that helps.

I think this depends. Sure they are round but whether a skiving machine cuts a tapered edge or a leveled edge probably comes down to which foot the machine left the factory with or that the mechanic installed on it before placing it for sale. So you are probably ASSuming they are all like yours. My guess is that the newer skiving machines may more often come with a curved foot (or set of feet) which apparently can produce a level skive. I say this based on the fact that some of the adds are mentioning a special foot for beveled edges (a straight bottomed foot). Here's a graphic that I found on another forum showing that the foot that came with this persons machine was making straight skives (they preferred beveled) so they figured out that a flat bottom foot was needed for the bevels (see item#5 of the second picture). BTW - they were considering making their own with teflon until they found them [ENLARGE THE PICS AT THE BOTTOM OF MY POST]: I would not ASSume anything (thanks for inadvertantly calling me names, btw) - I would not assume that certain feet would be available (although, the truth is that all of these new skiving machines look like clones of each other, I'd be real surprised if there were much difference between them). Besides like I said, the special feet are mentioned in the adds of some of them, so no assumptions there on my part. Disagree. The fact is that they will do level skives - too much info out there pointing to it. There are some conversations on the net (if not on this very forum) that can be found where people get help working through problems they are experiencing. So that helps. Besides, chewed up leather and a learning curve is a given IMHO. I don't think anyone should be discouraged if wanting to pursue this machine as a "next step". My apologies to the original poster for the slight detour from the original subject. The above is just my $.02

Sounds perfectly logical to me, I do know the bell knife is round and wondered how it managed to make level skives.. but I didn't pull that idea out of the blue, I got it from reading things like Bruce Johnson's comments in this thread: Leather Strap End Skiver And Splitter Machine - quote (hope you don't mind Bruce?) "For softer leather like that, I use a bell knive skiver. I can set them to level split up to about 2 inches wide. I have run straps through crosswise and done laps." Also, if you look at this thread Not A Sewing Machine, But A Skiving Machine!, the pictures of the skived leather looks very flat and level to me... though it could just be an illusion I admit. So you're saying that probably these guys did multiple passes through the machine with various distances from the edge to get the flattened area? Even so, that's gotta be faster than hand skiving chrome leather if nothing else. Then again, looking at the original poster's list he may be using veg tan mostly. Oh, also there is my memory of reading somewhere about an optional pressor foot for the machines that was better for doing beveled edges - but that sounds backwards and I can't find where I saw it.. so who knows. I'm keeping it at the top of my list. PS - I just located where I got the special pressor foot for beveled edges idea.. it's part of an add I read for a particular skiving machine. It reads "Also suitable for bevel skiving with use of special presser foot - available on special order."

Keep in mind that if you get the motor driven bell knife skiver, they will typically skive an edge up to 50mm which is 2". So my understanding is that it could be used as a splitter too, up to 4" strip of leather, if both edges are run through. Ya'll correct me if I'm wrong on that (as I haven't actually got my machine to try it yet). These machines also typically have a built in sharpening stone which is a God send in my opinion - keeping a table mounted splitter sharp has been a challenge for me. Of course you might need to split larger items, so I'd think you could just do the edges of a 5-6" wide piece and hand skive the center with round knife or whatever. I think most of these machines will bevel the edges too (can someone confirm this for me). I noticed that Wizcraft's list has #2 Skiver and #5 Edge Beveler.... Wiz, are there separate machines for these things that do a better job than the combo bell knife skivers? This is what I've been looking at getting next. Followed by the strap cutter, then Riveter, then Arbor Press and dies.

I have to get another bobbin winder for a machine that uses the 10656 bobbins (which is size G I think), are the average "table mounted next to the belt slot" ones compatible with a wide range of sizes? I'm unsure if the center bore of the bobbins are the same amongst the small and medium sizes machines. So in other words are they pretty much universal with the exception of the much larger bobbined machines (say on the 441 clones, GA5-1, etc.)? I know the bobbin center bore of the patcher machines are too small for these table mounted winders, so that has me wondering about the rest. The machine I'm dealing with is a Consew 287R cylinder. Thanks.

NO they don't - they are out of them, I checked several days ago.

Then there's this bench mandrel too, that would work with a common run of the mill motor, they have the matching chucks too. http://www.grizzly.c...earing/G5548 - Why'd I ever get rid of those old electric motors? edit - not sure why that link won't go to the correct page, just search item# G5548 and G5555

I'm not over thinking it - I just don't want to make a mistake and buy something I'm not happy with after a short while. It's a lesson I've learned from sewing machine purchases and it's gotten a little old. As it stands I prefer the bench mounted grinder option (if it's possible) over a rigged up hand-held drill. Especially since it'll be an expense for me either way. I hope to be using this thing for a very long time. To me the bench grinder just seems a little more compact if not more,..professional (FWIW). So my question is still, are the 3400rpm motors going to necessarily cause burning of the leather? I guess I could try to get a "slow speed" grinder or a variable speed one - here's a cheap unit from Harbor Freight but the reviews are not that great: http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-grinder-with-flex-shaft-43533.html

I've just about ruled out the idea of getting one of the tables or pedestals where the machine's arm extends off the side. The reason is because I plan to use the machine as a flat-bed too, if I can. Unless there are ways of doing so with those tables/stands, that I am unaware of? Then there are similar ones with a much lower left hand section.. they seem a better option, but I don't see how a flat-bed attachment table could be used there either. Any ideas? So.. what I'm thinking is I'll get a set of industrial K-legs and set them at their lowest setting (I'm thinking that's 24"), because that would put the cylinder arm and flat-bed tabletop (that fits around the cylinder arm) level to where a "normal" table's height would be. I'd like a cut-out section under the cylinder arm - mostly for my knee movement since the main table would be set so low. This would also accommodate large projects too I guess when not using the flat-bed attachment. So - are these type tabletops available or will they need to be custom made? I see the cut-out ones in pics a lot but never with a flat-bed attachment. Thoughts, suggestions, personal prefs ? Thanks.

Needle and Hook - can someone help me figure out the relationship between the two? I tried moving my needle bar up aprx. 6mm for the 135x16 needles to work. Of course it's done a little unscientifically when you're a novice so I'm not sure if I moved the bar enough, or too much. Anyway, the needle will go down and pick up the bobbin thread with the new 135x16 needle (when I've loaded a new bobbin) but it will not do so while trying to sew. Just a series of holes are all I get. I remember a conversation somewhere on this forum where the needle to hook relationship was discussed and described (by sewmun maybe) . It went something like (just for example) "needle tip should be above the hook by [x amount] just before the needle starts to rise.", or something to that effect. I can't remember which machine was being discussed but I was hoping there is a standard for straight lock stitch machines that is bottom feed only as my Pfaff 34 is. here are some pictures that show my needle (the new 135x16 as opposed to 134-35) in it's LOWEST position just before it starts moving up. It's down past the hook about 1/8" or fractionally more. Thanks for any help.

Good info BUT, I just realized my bench grinder is 3450rpm.. that'll cause burning won't it? I don't see any on Harbor Freights website less than 3450rpm either, even the bench mounted "polisher" are about the same.