TomG

Tandy's Library has downloadable patterns. Here's a link. I've made a couple of these and they are pretty straightforward. https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1225-2697-disco-bag-pattern-pak.aspx?

I haven't used Clear Lac, but I have used Saddle Lac. The only issue I've had so far is that it seems hard to spray on a very light coat. And too thick of a coat will make it actually flake off. In your experience, what is the difference and why do you not like the SL?

Tandy has a few different contact type cements. The new low VOC has had universally poor performance reports. The original works well. They also carry Barge cement with folks here swear by. Other pros on the board here swear by Weldwood contact cement from the hardware store. I've use both Weldwood and Tandy's original and not seen a whole lot of difference. I took the new low VOC stuff back.

Get a shallow plastic tray and use it under your bottles when working with the dyes. Fold a sheet or 2 of newspaper to put in the bottom of the tray to absorb spills. I also use the syringes to transfer dyes for dilution. Go to your local pharmacy and look for 60ML ones. They are big and hold lots of dye. You will need one for each color you will work with. Some 18 gauge needles would be useful as well. After use, store them in individual ziplock bags for next time. As for the tongue slot, you are looking for an Oblong punch, also called a Bag punch. You can get them from most leather tool suppliers... Tandy, SLC, etc. There was also a thread just posted about tools, jigs and so on that had a user show his homemade punches. He used conduit and from the pictures, they looked better than some of the commercially made ones.

That was it. Thanks for finding it.

Some time back, this centering discussion came up and someone posted a photo of a simple jig that was self-centering on a strap. I just spent and hour or so looking for the thread and looking for the JPG on my PC, but can't find it on either. It was basically a square of thick Plexi, a line drawn down the center with a hole drilled in the middle to allow the punch to fit in, and 2 pins along that line on either side. You put I over the strap and rotate it so the pins touch the leather on either side and that centers the punch hole. If someone else remembers it, maybe they can post the link or picture.

OK. So spill the beans.... Did they have any idea of the thread size?

I just bought a guide for Gregg at Keystone for my Singer 111W155. Although I had to drill and tap 1 hole, it was a pretty easy task and works like a champ. I think it was a clone/Asian version of the Juki, but he can fill you in on any particulars for your needs. He's good to do business with.

Just an FYI to this thread. I modified a Consew CS-1000 and it works great. Just a couple of notes. This motor (new last month or 2), has a VERY bright LED. A piece of paper did NOT work. I had to use a heavy piece of plastic (cut up old gift card). I made a modified sloped pieced and taped it under the original arm. One issue I noticed is that with the original heavy paper I used, it started sagging and changed the amount of light allowed through. The plastic will stop that, but I don't trust the tape for a permanent solution. I have also bought a couple of spare arms from SE Sewing and am going to modify one to make a shallower slope and will report on how it works.

A machine shop will have thread gauges to tell you if it's a SAE, NF or Metric thread. It may not be so much a secret as no one really knows <g>... Tom

Well, it says you can't get any new messages...

The LL address is via my webhost. I have an Enterprise account and I manage 3 or 4 websites, including my own. I really haven't had issues with anything else. Not to say it's not an internal problem on my end... I switched my email address here to my charter.net address and now get notifications on the forums I follow. Gonna send you a PM with what I see on the server.

True, Cyber, but for some reason, the emails from the forum are coming into my email server as an IP address that IS listed as a poor reputation. That's why they get junked. I changed to my personal email address and am getting the emails. But I'd like to find out why this is happening to my legacyleathercraft.com emails.

I checked with my ISP and they said the server used to send them out here is on a Barracuda Block List. I emailed admin here to ask them to see if anyone else has the issue and maybe send their IP address in to unblock it. In the mean time, I'm going to have to use a different email address and see if it goes through Later

Thanks. I'll check my local welding supplier and see what they have. I haven't brazed anything since high school. Forgot all about that method.

I need to make some custom links out of brass D-rings and round rings. Can anyone tell me the best way to weld the ends back together after I cut and link them? Thanks

Is anyone else having problems following forums? I used to get emails for all posts in forums that I follow but I haven't gotten a single one in a while now.

I know a lot of folks say resist is not for use with dyes, but I have been using them to create highlighted stamped lettering for a long time now. Early on, I had picked up some sort of hard fiber nibs from a scrapbook store. I mount them in a handle and use 100% Resolene for my resist. It worked really well because I could paint the resist on like a pen. After a while, the tip would get where I couldn't trim and reshape it, so I'd replace it. Now, my local stores no longer care them. I'm using a brush now, but it's not my strongest skill <g>... I sometimes get uneven resist layers that let a little more dye through in one area than another and makes the highlights uneven. What do you guys use to apply your resist to letters and such?

Just an FYI --- Harbor Freight has their 20-ton hydraulic press on sale right now for $149.00. That's $130 off. Later

Thanks to all. The Wawak.com site seems to have the best bang for the buck.

Who carries a variety of smaller spools of 69, 138 and 207 thread. I don't always need a 1 pound spool of certain colors. Also, what weight is the standard Coats and Clarke type of upholstery thread?

Dip dyeing is definitely out then <g>... Yeah. Any wax, sealer, gum trag, lacquer etc will block the dye. If I need a smooth back, I sand, do any stamping or carving, then dye, burnish the edges, seal the top on oil or burnish the back and possibly seal it. All depends on what I'm making.

What the above 2 said and then try to dip dye and see if that works for you

This company has a ton of webbing. I have no idea if they have that color as they seem to be sort of an "overstock" supply company, but a quick call can answer that for you. Casto Trading Company 1898 Railroad St Statham,GA 30666 (770) 725-2424 Good luck

Some folks use a piece of 1/2" felt, dip in dye or edge dressing and pull along the edge. I usually use a modified wool dauber. I take it outside and use a lighter to burn it until it's about 1/4" in diameter. It's not critical. Once it's the size I want, I blow it out and knock the shell off. This leaves a hard, roundish ball with a handle. Dip into dye or edge dressing and apply to the edge. I usually use the edge dressing as if I miss and get a little on the front, I can wipe it off as long as I do it immediately. All of this is after I do the edge burnishing stuff.