TomG

Not sure what that is.. I'll do some searching tomorrow. thanks

I need to simply wrap a steel or brass ring with a layer of lace. I have played with a couple of ideas, and since I need it wo be smooth, I would like to just wrap it. However, I can not figure out how to secure the start and finsh ends so that it does not unravel. I need ti as tight a wrap as possible. It will have a lot of rubbing - it's going on a dog collar for a dog that is metal sensitive. Thanks Tom

I have searched the boards for this question. I could swear I saw it. Sometimes when I and sewing and make the 90 dgree turn, the thread on the top stitch pulls into the center, creating a curved corner. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong in these cases. Anyone have a clue? Thanks Tom

Actually, I settled on a Halter buckle from Tandy that I had. It's a bit heavier but looks good, and suince the customer wants "simple", it will do just fine. It's a 3/4", Item # 1503-01

I'm an old BBS and IRQ guy. Did a little with news groups but not enough to remember all the acronyms and stuff. I don't think I ever knew that one.... I'll wait and see what ya stir up outta the woodpile though

Did you ever find a source? I am looking for a 1/2" to 3/4" dress belt buckle like this one. I've tried OTB and a few others but so far no luck. In fact, I'm not finding a whole lot of center bar dress type buckle in any size.

Ohio Travel Bag has a good selection. Here's the link http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/Products.html Standard rivet is another source, but I have not purchased from them and don't know the order requirements http://www.standardrivet.com/contact-us.php Good luck Tom

What's an OP? The J-hook on mine solved most of the problems I was having. The sad thing is that I haven't had to use it very much since it was repaired.... But what I HAVE done was OK Tom

Thanks, I'll try it again. It's about 3 weeks old now. I did a final straining tonight as it had stopped dissolving the steel wool a week or so ago.... I've got it airing out now in a quart jar. Tom

I did a dip the the other night and it was weird.... I could only fit 3/4ths of the strip at a time in my pan, so I dipped until it was black on the first end (about 1-2 minutes) and swapped ends. the second end would only turn gray in the same amount of time. It took about 7 minutes to turn black. I'll try the brush on method tomorrow on my next project. As for the baking soda, I'm doing an extended soak to get rid of the smell.... Water won't cut it. But I haven't tried oiling it after a quick wash either. Later. Tom

I've read everything I can find on this topic but still don't see an answer. After blackening the leather with my Vinegaroon, I soak it in a baking soda soluton for a while, then rinse it well. I rub it with a rag and it seems to come off, blackening the rag. Even after it's dry, I seem to get some rub off. Is this normal? It's not a dye, so am I just getting some of the tannins from the surface on my rag? Thanks Tom

I think Tandy has a free video on their site that shows how to stamp the letters evenly. Tom

Hi all, I've read pretty much all of the posts on making and using the Vig and seems that there are a number of ways and methods to use this stuff. 2 weeks ago, I took some old 00 steel wool pads I've had for years and put in a gallon jug. Poured about 2 qts of new vinegar on top and let it sit, shaking it up every few days. Then, using paper coffee filter, I filtered the almost black liquid to get rid of the fine metal left over. I was left with a very dark liquid. After letting it sit a couple of days it had not cleared so I decided to try it anyway. I dipped a strip of veg-tan into it and within seconds, I had a very black strap. I let it soak for about 10 miutes to make sure it went all of the way though, I took it out and dipped it into a solution of 4 tablespoons of baking soda in about a quart and a half of water (half full 2 liter soda bottle). I didn't see any bubbles. After about 10 minutes, I took it out and washed it thoroughly. It smelled like dead fish. I let it dry overnight and it still smelled bad. I put it back in the soda and got some bubbles. Let it sit for about an hour and then washed it again. Now is smells like wet leather. My Vig still smelled a little like vinegar. So I added another steel wool pad. Within an hour, the almost black solution was clear and has a mass of steel wool floating near the top. I'll let it sit and see how it does over the next few days. So - Long story and here are the questions: 1) Should the Vig always smell like vinegar and steel? 2) How long should the soda dip be done? 3) Should there be a smell after dipping? Thanks Tom

I'll write the owner and see if she will send me the info. She's kind of drop off line for some reason. Thanks Tom

Capsterdog posted a .PDF file he got from Tandy with all of their big stamsp from the past to present. I have comverted it to . Excel spreadsheet so you can add to it and mark up your own inventory. Thanks to Capsterdog for getting it. Tom NOTE: Be sure to rename the file and change the extension to .XLS as the system doesn't seem to want to let me post an XLS spreadsheet. Tandy Stamp List-RENAME EXTENSION TO XLS.TXT

Capsterdog recent;ly posted a .PDF file with a list of all the Tandy stamps - past and present. Thanks. I have converted it to an Excel spreadsheet so you can track which ones you own. Enjoy. Tom

Thanks I think I just need to find her someone she can send it to for repair. I don't mind taking on a learning project, but I think this might be too much to cut my teeth on But I'll keep reading and learning Thanks Tom

I won't get a chance to get out there for pictures for a while, unfortunately. She did send me a message and said she thinks it's a Flex tree... Anyone ever heard of that? She was not sure of the make or maker of the saddle. Tom

Here's the link. It's under Chapter 9 http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14218/index.htm Tom

Yeah.. Sure... Replace the J-Hook myself. Uh Huh.. Actually, I could probably do it. I've aligned the hook on our 12-needle embroidery machine.. And I have the service and parts manual for the W155. And I am very mechanically adept. The question was "Do I want to"??? Hell no.... the hook is $80. Another $20 for the tension and foot stuff. It's actually worth the $$$ in labor to not have to screw with it,. I decided to go ahead and have them do it. I got to thinking and recalled that every time I go to sew up the back of a folding chair we've emboidered, I have to sew a bunch of test stitches to get the slop out of the bobbin side, and that is never a guarantee.... Screw it... I'm tired of messing with it. If they do it right, I'm good to go on several fronts.. If they don't, they are local and I can go and become a pest Thanks for all of the advise. I'll try the different needle/thread combo when I get it back. Tom

I would never sell something broken or in need of repair without full disclosure.... I just hate to keep pouring money into this machine. The place I took it to has a good rep and does lots of industrial business. But they are tell my it won't sew 138 or higher reliably. Folks here say it will. I put some 138 in and it seemed to do OK but has the random bunching and jamming on the bobbin side...same as the 69 thread... so a bad J-Hook makes sense.... Oh.. A J-hook is the device with the point that the bobbin fits into and slings the thread around to make your stitch.... Let's see. I spent $50 on a "tech" to come by the house and "fix" it for this problem a few months ago. Stopped sewing right the next day. Can't get hold of him now.. Surprise.... Just put a servo motor on it to slow it down.... That part is good. So now I have to put another $275 into it for this repair.... With what I paid for it and will have spent, I could have ALMOST bought a new Consew or something else...... I'm just frustrated, I guess. We do not have enough business right now to justify a whole lot of expense for this machine... But I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it.... End of Venting...! Tom

I put the 155 in the shop for a check, as the bobbin tension had a problem. They are telling me that it needs a couple fo tension springs and a new J-hook. Not sure if I want to inveast that much into it or save up for a Consew 206 or something like it. I need something that will do heavy fabric AND leather. Is the Consew 205 or 206 better and what wo9uld be a fair price on a used one? Thanks Tom

Hi Steve. I was inquirubg as to the needle size (20, 22, etc) and the size thread you can use with the 155... 69, 138, etc. Tom

Kevin, What size needles and threads do you use? What's the largest thead you've sewn with? Tom

Thanks Jeff, I haven't seen it yet, so I have no idea of the overall condition. I agree with the teardown.... I wouldn't even attempt this unless I took it apart so I could take pictures during each step. I'll keep you posted if I proceed with it. Tom