LNLeather

Nice Job - And as usual, I like it and I'd be Very proud to use it. Sometimes only us makers know what we might have done differently... and I couldn't guess what that might be on this. Looks Grrreat to me! Very nice website!

I love the pattern on this. Is it your design? Would you mind telling me what color you used on this? Very Nice Work! Oh, BYW - Very Nice Display / Photography!

I totally agree with Luke. "If i could trade it in for a RATCHETING PRESS I would" I bought the 1/2 ton Harbor Freight Press for use in the house, thinking I could work on small projects with it. But it is way too much frustration to get it to do what I want. I haven't used it for at least 10 months. I just use my Clicker for all jobs now, large and small. It sounds like the ratcheting press would be much better. Or who knows, I might just try using a C-clamp like Gawdzilla - really! BTW Harbor Freight is having a sale and the 12 Ton Shop Press is only $129.99 and the 20 ton is only $199.99. There is also a 6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press for $79.99 that looks interesting. Amazon also has the Northern Industrial Arbor Shop Press With Ratchet Handle for $179.99 remember that is Plus shipping Watch out - Buyer Beware - over on EBAY - it looks like someone is trying to sell a plain Arbor Press as one that has a ratchet handle for only $39.95

I just saw this electric guitar stamp also on ebay ELECTRIC-GUITARS-SHOP-PRESS-CRAFT-STAMP hope this helps

Why not ask Double U Leather how he did it in his post with his Smalll 3 Ring Binder Daytimer Small 3 Ring Binder Daytimer

I have a friend that has the electric fence, and three dogs with shock collars that close with the quick snap. They have no problems with the collars coming off but his dogs also don't play with each other in a way that could release a buckle... It might also be a good idea to rub some cayenne paste on the outside of the collar and let it dry - to discourage the Mutt's buddy from playing with his collar. I had 2 young dogs that were playing outside and had one get his teeth caught up in the others collar. In trying to get them out one dog got turned around once completely turning that collar into a tourniquet. It is a very good thing I found them in time to cut the collar off....

Yes, Welcome to Leatherworker.net! You are gonna love it here - so much information is available... I agree with you on your masterpiece. Did you design the horse heads, or was that part of the project pattern? Too bad the hair is coming off... I would use it anyway. Very Very Nice!

Did you try looking through the Search results - for this site? Up in the upper right corner of this page - is a search box - click on the word Advanced and then enter possibles bag in the Find words box then scroll down and click on the choice for -------> Display results As posts Then click on Search now. There will be all of the posts for this subject and it will show those with pictures...... This is a Grrrrrreat way to find all of the posts available - about anything you might be interested in

That is Very Professional looking TR! and - The stitching is Top Notch. Is that Antique Saddle Tan you used? Verrrry Nice!

Here is some more interesting links... http://www.elktracks.net/ JIM LINNELL FREE PATTERNS http://www.sbearstra...s.html#patterns STANDING BEAR TRADING POST http://www.prorodeooriginals.com/clicker-dies#!__clicker-dies PRO RODEO ORIGINALS - CLICKER DIES http://www.bowstock..../saddstit0.html SADDLE STITCH TUTORIAL http://www.celticatt...tish_stamps.htm CELTIC DESIGNS http://www.wrtcleather.com/ WILD ROSE TRADING COMPANY

So much help here (at Leatherworker.net) and many different products to try and decide what is best for your different projects… Since reading this I think I am going to get some Acrylic Resolene for the pieces I have that are colored and use up the Super Shene & Satin Shene I have on un-dyed pieces….. * Seems like I remember reading that a good way to put the Shene on - is to put on 2 really light coats when being used for the final finish. I tried this with a small (3in x 3in) cotton rag and the leather had much less of a plastic look to it. Dwight said above that "I use both Resolene and Bag Kote, . . . resolene 50/50 with water, . . . bag kote is 60/40, bag kote to water." I never had read that these things could be diluted, so this is a great information. Same as with the Antique gel. Not only does it last longer / go farther, you can also get many different shades of the color. (Also – I suggest you don't 'Dump the Super Sheen down the drain'. Better to find a proper way to discard any chemicals, or give it to someone that can use it. This a 'How To' guide for 'Antiquing' Leather that was sent to me by Raymond Tipton from BUNKHOUSE TOOLS He also has an auction site on eBay duckcreektraders. This is a box top I made using this guide. First I put Super Shene on the horse because I wanted it to stay a lighter color. Then I put diluted Fiebings Antique Saddle Tan on, because I wanted the surrounding area darker. *. If you want the whole piece to be lighter, then put your resist on the entire piece, let it dry, and then add the antique. You can go over it till it looks just right. let that dry and then put a Finish coat on. *. Some times I want the leather a dark color so I will just use straight Antique Saddle Tan gel on the entire piece. First I used Feibing dark brown # 124 on the horse and cross, let that dry and then the Antique Saddle Tan. That way I get the color I want and the antiquing also gets into all of the border tooling. Let that dry and then add a finish to that. Whether you use Super Shene, or Resolene for the resist, or finish with Bag kote… that is up to you. Seems like everyone has their favorite products that work for them. Before you mess up your good piece - you could test what you have in mind on a sample till you get your preferred results. I hope this helps

Great Looking Wallet Kevin! Thanks so much for sharing your 'How To' with us!

OK, to update here… I had a job to clean old sports equipment for someone – old basketballs, old footballs and old baseball mitts. Since they were not mine, I needed to make sure not to do any damage, and I actually wanted to make them look as good as possible. I had dome a search on-line to see what was recommended and then asked here. The results and recommendations were pretty much the same. After cleaning them up some people swear by Lexol, some swear by Vasoline. I talked with a good friend and she said an old cowboy had restored some dried out reins of hers by putting Murphys Oil Soap on them and working it in for about 1/2 hour. She said they were like new when he was done. So that is what I used on the leather sports equip. First, I brushed off all the clumps of dried on dirt & grass. Then I cleaned everything up with some warm water with some Murphys Oil Soap. I washed everything with that and then let everything dry. The basketballs and the footballs all looked great and not at all dried out. Then I needed to do something with the baseball mitts. They looked alright but the laces were all stiff, hard and dried out. So I used straight Murphys Oil Soap and worked it into all the laces and lightly over the entire glove. When I was done they looked and felt like new. My customer was totally amazed at how good everything looked.