Big O

"OLD" military type? Ugh. I sure hope you're just talking about the color..... .....because I was issued one of those, in black, a mere 22 short years ago......

Do you wrap the manila folder around the handgun to do this?

I've been having some trouble in positioning the stitch line closest to the pistol accurately. I have an idea, but I don't know if it'd work. Here it is: Heat up a sheet of kydex and mold it around the pistol. Scratch the stitch line into the kydex. (as well as other features, including belt slots and the outline of the holster. Reheat the kydex and lay it flat again. Cut a narrow path along the scratched line. (as well as cutting out the outline and the other features) Use the hardened kydex template to mark everything, INCLUDING the stitch line, on the leather. Has anyone tried this, or something similar?

First revolver holster I've tried. Overestimated the spacing around the gun and had to put in a new line.

I've been making holsters, and what would be handiest for me is grooves for double thickness 4-5oz and double thickness 8-9oz. The 4-5 for IWB holsters, holsters for smaller pistols, and magazine pouches, and the 8-9 for most OWB holsters.

Interesting idea. Initials of loved ones on a holster could serve as a reminder of what you're fighting FOR.

After. I'm actually "cheating" - using leather that's already finished. I have some undyed leather on the way, though.

I got a small stitching awl, with a size 1 blade. Cuts right through even a double layer of 8-9 oz leather. I love that. BUT.....I've got this thick 4 oz Nyltec waxed nylon thread, and I have to use pliers to get the needles and thread through the holes made by the awl. I mean, I have to push the needle in from one side, and then pull it out from the other. When I'm finished sewing, it looks like there's a puckered area around each hole. Is this because the awl is too small, or because the thread is too thick, or because I'm pulling the thread too tight, or some combination of those, or something I haven't thought of?

I've come across a whole bunch of vegetable-tanned splits on eBay, mostly in the 4-5 oz range, and got to wondering: Would those be suitable for making IWB holsters with, since the body of the holster is out of sight, out of mind?

In 22 years of law enforcement, I've never ONCE encountered a hairball wearing a holster. Guns, yes. Holsters, no.

Looks great! (but I'm with Hicks when it comes to the body shield. if the SHTF, it's gonna be pinched between the thumb and the gun.)

Beautiful design! I really love the stitching, especially on the right. The shape of the trim piece looks a little odd to me, but I like the contrast in texture.

Very nice! I see you cut the back far enough to clear the magazine release, which can be important for two reasons. First, to make it less likely that it'll be inadvertently pressed. Second, to make it possible to deliberately press it (which is something I typically do to top off the magazine after chambering the top round - and I usually do that right after I stuff the pistol in the holster. Something about only having two hands.....)

I have no idea if you've tried any of these ideas, but just in case you haven't, here goes: 1. Wear pants one waist size (2 inches) bigger for use when carrying IWB, and adjust your belt accordingly. 2. Use an IWB holster with a body shield to keep the pointy, edgy stuff at the rear end of the slide from digging painfully into your torso. 3. Wear the holster in a natural hollow around your waistline. A lot of folks have success with about a 4 o'clock or 5 o'clock position. I, too, prefer OWB carry for comfort, but I also prefer carrying a full-size pistol in a caliber that begins with "4". If I can't get away with the fashion crimes necessary to accomodate concealed OWB carry, I'll resort to IWB. (I have a whole HELLUVA lot more experience in wearing holsters than I do in making them)

I'm not very experienced. I'm up to ten holsters now, and before I found this forum, most of what I'd learned came from my OWN mistakes. I'm seeing two possible practical problems here with that GORGEOUS holster of yours: 1. It looks like there might not be quite enough open space (space not occupied by leather) at the rear of the trigger guard for you to get a solid grip on the pistol in order to draw it. 2. It doesn't look like you took the travel path of the front sight into consideration when molding. (but the green tape suggests that I could be wrong about that) Still looks better than my first 5 or 6 holsters, for sure, and the stitching looks better than ANY of mine.

That looks AWESOME! Solid, too. I really like that decorative line of grooving just inside the outer edge. Hope you don't mind that I'm stealing that idea for my holsters.

LoL Except for the subcompacts, the magazines are all the same size.

That's exactly how I've been doing it. And, once the second one is done, pull both threads as tight as they will go.

I've got a Seiwa size 1 awl on the way. Also just got some more waxed nylon thread - 240 yards instead of just 25. BUT.....it looks to be TWICE the diameter of the stuff I was using before..... Thanks for the explanation, TexasJack. I'll watch out for the digits.

Thanks, Mike. I'm actually looking for a suitable awl. At this point, I'm thinking of the Dremel press as a back-up for stitching holes, and a go-to for sanding and maybe burnishing. If this evolves into more than a hobby, I'm going to have to start looking at motors, pulleys and belts.... From what I've gathered on here, the ideal awl will have a short shaft that is four-sided, smooth and sharp on the edges as well as the point. I've had no great luck with this on eBay so far. Also with a small cross-section for this type of work. If there's a particular model that anyone could recommend, I'd appreciate it. FWIW, I'm in complete AWE of your work!