Big O

This is all I could find: http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/24399/Skin%2CShark%2CBlack/ But it's $18.99 per sq ft, and it looks like the minimum order is 5sf.

Seriously considering buying the M&P from you, BUT........what is it you find less desirable about the Duncan's mold?

I'm not sure I'd be comfortable going to 6-7oz.. I think I'd at least add a welt to fill the entire area not taken up by the pistol, to add stiffness. That would actually INCREASE the thickness in the belt slot area, while reducing it throughout the rest of the holster.

I'm in the market for a dummy of a Glock 30, if anyone has one they wish to sell.

Half the thickness of the pistol. And that's drawn around the outline of the pistol. (not understanding the "center line" bit) Measure the width of the slide, divide that by 2, set a compass to that width, and follow the outline. For an open-bottomed holster, I'd leave the muzzle end as is, making it either flush with the end of the slide or just a wee bit longer. For a closed-bottomed holster, you'll definitely need that extra leather.

The "proper" cant is that which works best for you. Here's how I figure it out: I take the UNLOADED pistol and hold it in my hand in a proper, full, combat grip with my index finger along the frame. I put it against my belt in the position where I intend to wear the holster. I move it up and down, and cant it back and forth, until I find what feels like the most comfortable position. Then I simulate a few presentations - a dozen or so. When I put it back against the belt that last time, I make note of where the top of the belt crosses the pistol at the top of the slide (or topstrap if a revolver) and at the bottom of the trigger guard. I then mark those two points on my traced outline, and put a line through them. That's where the top of the belt goes. Measure down the width of the belt and draw a parallel line. There's your belt, on your pattern.

I love the DETAIL of the molding! What's your secret?

NICE!!!!! How stable is the 1911, riding that high? I've been thinking about a high-ride design, to reduce the required length of a cover garment, but have been leery of it because of stability concerns.

Particle, your design certainly looks workable to me - just not really "pretty". Eh, it's a prototype. The only potential problem I see is that the belt slot attachment looks a bit iffy. Maybe cut out a half-circle on each end, beyond the holes for the badge pin, and sew along both the outer and inner perimeters? Or, maybe, and this might be a little wild, cut out a circle the exact diameter of the holder, and then cut a half-inch section out of the middle. Sew the two halves to the edges of the holder in such a manner as to form two smaller belt tunnels rather than one larger one. It'd have room between the halves for a trouser belt loop if that's where the customer wanted to wear it on his waistband.....or not.....the point is that he would have that option. It boggles my mind a little that someone would NOT want the clip for a badge holder.

I would either abandon the "tie down lace" entirely(1st choice), or make it a wider tab that attaches to the rear of the holster on one end, and then splits and slips over the hammer (from the side) on the other. That'd provide both added retention AND some slight measure of safety, by inhibiting contact between the hammer and the firing pin - but at the expense of speed, and with the possibility that the lace could get in the way and foul the draw entirely. And I'd cover the trigger guard, because the bang switch (trigger) is the primary, if not ONLY, initiator of unintentional bangs - as well as intentional ones. And if you're going to have the muzzle and, more significantly, the front sight protruding beyond the bottom of the holster, it is absolutely essential that a sight channel be molded in, and HARD. The last thing anyone wants in extremis is a "speed bump". All of the above is solely my opinion, arrived at from a whole lot more time WEARING holsters than MAKING them.

US Army was still using those holsters (in black) as late as 1990. It took awhile for the Berettas to get distributed to all units. I was very disappointed when they got around to mine.......

I've never used saddle skirting, just shoulders. 12-14oz is godawful thick. ENTIRELY too thick for IWB holsters. I made one using 8-9oz, and that was even too thick. Felt like smuggling a brick. I could see using 12-14oz leather for a field holster, which is meant to take heavy abuse. For IWB, I'm thinking anywhere from 5-7oz would be good.

Gorgeous! And, 3 hours? Wow.

The stitch line right up next to the gun is as close to perfect as I've seen. A lot of people have trouble getting it tight enough. The stitch line around the outside seems a bit far from the edge. The stitch line around the belt slot seems to "wander" a lot. Are you grooving the leather? It helps. The belt slot itself is problematic. It's either not long enough, or entirely too wide. They look better with rounded ends. I use a punch to make a hole at either end, and then use a wood chisel to "connect the dots." Edges need burnishing. All of them, including the edge of the reinforcement piece, which must be done before it's stitched. Needs more molding. Doesn't look like there's enough space to get a solid combat grip on the pistol while it's still in the holster. Even if you're not going to dye the leather, you should apply a top finish to it, to help preserve it. Hope this helps.

The only problems I've had with dye running during wetforming have been with horsehide. And neatsfoot oil on cowhide. I've used Fiebing's leather STAIN with no problems, and will soon be trying their Pro Oil Dye.

Heat. Folks here have recommended constructing drying ovens, which heat the newly wet-molded holster to 120 degrees for 20-30 minutes. I'm way too lazy/cheap for that at this point, but what I've done is to run a hair dryer (blow dryer) over the holster, back and forth, all sides and angles, for about half an hour. It does make the leather significantly stiffer. (unless you've used neatsfoot oil in the process, and overdone it, in which case you're pretty much stuck with a well-formed but buttery soft holster. ask me how I know that. LoL) I'm using the hair dryer on every holster at this point. It works well for me. Mind you, I make one holster at a time, no more than two a week. If I was doing mass production, I'd think that a drying oven would be the way to go.

I'm thinking you could also make a "standard" Avenger, but instead of cutting an oval slot at the front end of the belt tunnel, cut a "C" shaped slot, so that the flap - the enclosed end of the "C" - provides more belt contact surface. Hoping that makes sense to anyone but me.....

I had a pistol, a Springfield XD45 Tactical with a 5" barrel. Couldn't find a leather holster for it. Found plenty of holsters for the shorter-barrelled .45s, a few for the 9mm and .40 Tacticals, and a whole bunch for the shorter-barrelled 9mm and .40 versions......just not for that particular combo. So, I decided to make my own, and started researching it. I bought a piece of leather that was way too big, and decided to make more holsters. Friends saw the holsters and asked about them and, before long, they each told a friend, who told a friend, who told a friend.........and before long, I was buying more leather......

I've found that sometimes, after the molding is done, the slot and the tunnel (my name for the "front loop") are a little "off". I have successfully avoided this problem by moving the slot DOWN by one double thickness of the leather I'm using. (this might explain the rearward cant that the OP ended up with in his "vertical" holster)

Great design! I've been planning something like that myself, but with detachable loops that would be closer together. I love the stitching. What kind of thread did you use?

Very nice! I like the reinforcement pieces on each side. They should give the struts some added rigidity. And I like the color contrast (tan/dark brown). Critiques: - one of my pet peeves: there doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance at the bottom rear of the trigger guard. I want my holsters to allow a FULL grip on the pistol right from the get-go. I tend to not cover the ENTIRE trigger guard, just enough to block access to the trigger itself. - the dye job doesn't look very consistent. I do mine with multiple light coats, one right after the other, until I'm satisfied with it. - how solid is the holster pocket opening when it's empty? Will it collapse under belt pressure, making reholstering difficult? If so, I'd add a reinforcement piece. - why dark brown for the belt loops? Is this what the customer wanted, because he has a belt that color? And, if so, is that belt sturdy enough to support the gun? I ask this because the vast majority of the GUN belts I have seen are either black or tan. Holsters are merely one part of a carry SYSTEM. The world's best holster on a crappy $9.95 K-Mart special belt makes the entire system crappy. When I make a holster with a sweat shield for a 1911, I always wet-mold the sweat shield to conform to the safety lever, in the "on" position. Sometimes I also mold it slightly around the rear of the slide, and then bend just the tip of the shield backwards so that it "locks" the pistol in place a little better, but is not too much in the way for easy reholstering. I ask my customers lots of questions if they're vague to begin with. Ideally, I have them come and see me - bringing the pistol with them, and wearing the pants and belt they intend to use the holster with. I'll triple-check the pistol to be sure it's unloaded, and have them position it on their waist where they want it, while maintaining a full grip on the pistol. This gives me the EXACT angle and height. I make note of where the top of the belt crosses the pistol. Sometimes, it's unrealistic, and I'll explain why and have them adjust it accordingly. But.....before I agree to make the holster, I'm going to have them commit to EXACTLY what they want me to make for them, right down to the color of the thread.

Very first holster, for a Springfield XD45 Tactical. Made from pre-dyed, pre-finished shoulder leather using ordinary nylon thread, holes punched and drilled, Total abomination - Latest holster for Kimber Gold Match. Made from shoulder leather, Fiebing's Walnut Leather Stain, Neatsfoot oil, and finished with 50/50 Resolene and water. Holes made using an awl, stitched with white Nyltex waxed thread. Somewhat less of an abomination -

Please don't take this the wrong way. I've seen a lot of the pictures you've posted on here, and your holsters are nothing short of amazing. The edges, the molding, and especially the stitching are typically PERFECT. On this one, the stitching, while still damned good, looks a bit imperfect. Can't put my finger on it, but it just doesn't have that perfect look I'm used to seeing in the pictures you put up. And it's not just the drip of dye. Were you tired or distracted when you did this one? Don't get me wrong: that's still better than my BEST work. But you're not me. I'd say restitch it.

Nicely done! Maybe a bit more coverage of the trigger guard, at least over the trigger itself. And the stitching could be a bit closer to the bottom of the barrel.

I've bought two of their awls through their eBay store. They're ridiculously sharp. You don't even feel them go into your finger, just wonder where the red dye came from...... BUT.....it doesn't last long - about 1.5 holsters. And, the blade will pull out of the handle fairly quickly. The prices are very, very right, though. So.....keep a sharpening stone and a tube of super glue handy if you're going to use their awls.