Big O

Nice molding and stitching, and BEAUTIFUL edges! I haven't yet been able to achieve edges like that. The holsters are very........angular. I'd put in some curves. I'd probably want the stitching to follow the bottom edge of the slide, just in front of the dust cover, a bit closer. (Note: I HAVE gotten that a bit TOO close before.....) And, with that much space between the pistol compartment and the belt slots, I'd feel more comfortable with some stitching along the inside of the belt slots, rather than just the outsides. My belt slot cutting technique has evolved to this: Punch holes using a 3/8" punch, and connect-the-dots with a 1" chisel. One of these days I might just splurge on a bag punch and simplify the process.

I've just been using double shoulders, and horse butts.

This is your world. We're just living in it.

Check to see if you've got too much finger on the trigger, if right-handed. Ideally, the pad of your finger should fall across the center of the trigger face, rather than the tip or the crease. Also, THINK "press" rather than "squeeze". Sounds silly. Works.

Thanks!!!! A bit......complicated, but that might be just the ticket!

You're right. While I did test the holster out, and it seemed perfectly stable in both positions, that might well change with time and wear. I apologize for taking it personally, and getting snippy. This is a design I've been struggling with. I made one previously, for a Taurus Public Defender, that was more stable and secure, but also monstrously large. It might just not be practical in anything other than a pancake design. Any ideas, anyone?

The crossdraw position does not use the belt slot, as your photoshop clearly shows. Hence my earlier comment that it's not as stable in that position. Look, a "jack of all trades" is, of necessity, a master of none. This customer wanted a multi-tool. Should I have sold him pliers, AND two screwdrivers, AND a file, AND a saw, AND a knife, instead?

What hardware did you use in this holster to attach the belt loops to the body of the holster? Pull-the-dot snaps? Line 24 snaps? Chicago screws?

Dick, I might just try the airbrush route. I've got two airbrushes left over from my custom truck obsession days. Yes, I brushed the finish on. The lower cutout in the Beretta holster is a second belt channel. The holster may be worn either strong side or crossdraw. More stable in the former than the latter, which is what I explained to the customer.

The guy I made it for liked the western design, so I started out with the intent to make it much like a western holster: I thought it fit quite well at that point. But he wanted it molded, so I molded it before applying the finish. I was a bit surprised at how much "open space" there was after that.

For a first try, that looks GREAT! I'd want the stitch lines a little closer to the outline of the pistol, but that's something I've wrestled with a lot myself. There's something in the finish that looks odd in the first picture. Could be gouges from boning, could be hairs from the brush you used to apply the finish. Hard to see. I really really REALLY like the concentric stitching.

Resolene and water. Somewhere in the general vicinity of 50/50, as several here have recommended. I'd love to find something that has about HALF the shine. LoL! Thanks, but I don't think their ACTUAL owner would have appreciated that.....

Nice! Where'd you get the hardware that holds the flap closed? Looks like the same kind of setup the military used for the old leather flap holsters.

Doesn't matter to me what others do. It's not for me. I've spent my entire adult life as a soldier or a cop. ....which means it's a major plus to leave this world with no more holes in your body than you came into it with.....

I'd be asking myself, first of all, if such a compact pistol was worth wearing all that leather for. And, secondly, if I would be willing to wear a jacket all the time. Beyond that, I second Lobo's opinion.

Oh, why the hell not? Add me, please.

Agreed. I carry full-sized pistols, mostly OWB, and, as I like to put it, I am willing to commit all manner of fashion crimes to facilitate this. High-ride is a good idea, but it has its limitations. I think it'll allow you to use a cover garment that's simply loose, instead of loose AND long.

I wouldn't think it'd be much more difficult. You'd have to be careful about more area of stitching, to be sure it isn't too tight anywhere, but, really, as long as it's tight ENOUGH in just two spots, there shouldn't be a problem. One thing I might consider with a barrel that long is speed of presentation, if he's using it for competition or even hunting. (Pretty sure combat use is out of the equation with a barrel that long - also, is that a .41 Magnum revolver, or a S&W MODEL 41, which IIRC is a .22?) With long barrels, you might consider some sort of cutout or split to reduce leather-clearing time. Along the front edge of the holster if it's a strongside, along the rear edge if it's a shoulder holster or vertical crossdraw. Front crossdraw should be fine as it is. Also, if it's the big revolver, it's gonna be HEAVY, so I'd make a large, sturdy belt attachment. Might even consider making a reinforced belt, or suggesting that he use one, anyway.

Can you borrow the gun?

Pigskin?

I'd think it'd be PLENTY stable with just the tunnel, and not the rear slot. ....for anything short of a 40-rd AK mag..... Looks flat-out GORGEOUS, though, just like everything you make.

It's not at all NSFW. I'll take some pics tonight and post at least one here. I'd do it now, but I mostly host my pics on my Facebook page, and all my friends can see them, and this is intended as a suprise.....

I did this for a Halloween costume. I'm dressing up as Jayne Cobb from Firefly/Serenity. Since I don't own a LeMat, but want to keep to the western flavor of the show, I looked over the "Cowboy Holster Tutorial" and made this: