marine mp

BigO,, All very nice pieces...without a doubt. I would like to see the harness for the shoulder rig, if you don't mind. It seems like it would be a simple, clean rig and I like the lines of the holster. Take care. Semper-fi Mike

You can rub some Kiwi Neutral Shoe polish on it and buff it off. Should be good to go. I really don't know about the other satin "Sheens" I use Resolene 50/50 on all my holsters. But....other than the shiny part, you did a bang-up job on the holster. Semper-fi MIke

pman The "roon" doesn't necessarily turn black. It isn't a "dye" ...per se. It will become "dirty" as soon as you pour the vinegar to the steel wool, nails, metal filings, etc., This concoction reacts with the tannins in the leather to turn it black thru and thru. It will do this within a few days of mixin' a batch. But for the best effect, I find 2 weeks at a minimum. A couple other pointers. !) It isn't necessary to get the nails, steel wool etc to rust before putting it in the vinegar. The vinegar is gonna do this all by itself anyways. 2) I find boiling the vinegar before pouring it into the metal media works better. (pour it in OUTSIDE) 3) Don't tighten the lid, leave it loose or punch a gas release hole in the top. 4) Read the tutorial in the "How do I do it section". 4) www.cascity.com has some good info on their forum also. Semper-fi Mike

Eaglestroker, Understand on the shortage of "dead presidents'!!!!! !)Canning Wax..$5.00, 2)Can Saddle Soap $4.00 3)Glycerin Bar $5.00. The canning wax and saddle soap is available at most any store and the Feibings Glyceryn bar (saddle soap) at a western or feed store. Plus a old pair of jeans for burnishing as I only hand burnish. I use1/4 inch leather punch for the belt slots. For myself, I find 3/8 gets to wide after the wet molding and forming. !/4 inch ends up stretching wide enough to accomodate a c/c heavy duty belt. Again, I also bevel the front and back side of the belt slots with a hobby knife so they almost come to a point. This makes for a smooth belt transition. Semper-fi Mike

Eaglestroker, Nice job and sewing looks spot-on. Just a few things I would change, beside whats already been suggested...bevel the outside of the holster on both front and back and also bevel the holster slots on the sides where the belt passes through on the front and back. Makes for an thinner cross-section that isn't pulling against your waist. Also, look on the "how do I do it" section and read "Hidepounders" (Bob Park) post on "Finishing Edges". I use his suggested method and the edges really do make a great difference on the overall appearance of the holster. Good job. Semper-fi Mike

Robs456, I stand corrected. I should have added.......rub the piece of leather off good, as with any "black" dye", then add lubrication then a sealer of choice. I just figured that was a given. Then, if the "roon" was made properly, (and you admitted you made several mistakes when making yours), the venegaroon shouldn't rub off. I should have been more clear. Thanks. Semper-fi MIke

Troop, I've never used stingray, but I'd say any of the finished will do fine. It is naturally waterproof, so......... Semper-fi Mike

Bobby, A sure-fire way, other than the one which have already been mentioned, which are good also, is to "vinegaroon" the item black. You can find the process in the "How to do it" section or on the CAS City.com site. Vinegaroon is a reaction with the tannins which are used in the tanning process. It turns the leather black thru and thru. Not just a surface dye. All my black items are done thias way now. Semper-fi Mike Rayban, Resolene seems to leave streaks when it isn't diluted. I've used it both ways, and as Dwight says, dilute it 50/50. Works better that way. I also put 2 to 3 light coats on. Give it time to dry in between coats. Hurrying the processon anything w/leather usually results in a POS!!! Patience is the key. Semper-fi Mike

Sixer, I use a 1/4" hole punch and a 1 -1/4" SHARP wood chisel. I also lubricate both before using. Has worked for years. Semper-fi MIke

Nice work indeed. The basketweave on the knife sheath looks the best I've ever seen. Holster is also stellar work. Semper-fi Mike

Andy, I've founfd that it is a whole lot easier to tool before I use the vinegar black. I've done it both ways and if you do it after, it seems you have to work harder to get the imprint of the tooling. Don't know why. I just do it before now and I dip the entire piece for 1 minute and then let it rest for 10 minutes the dip it in a solution of 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 quart warm water then wash it all off with warm, running water. As far as the transfer to tools or the transfer of fingerprints.........vinegaroon is a chemical reaction with the tannings that are used n the leather processing. It "blacks" thru an thru and I've never had any thranferring. I do wipe it off several times before putting my finish of resolene /water on it, but I don't think it should transfer if it has been fully dried and a finish coat put on it. I am not an expert...I learned this from the tutorial on this forum and another one on the CasCity forum. Semper-fi MIke

Mojo66, Elmers Yellow glue. It's carpenters waterproof glue. Semper-Fi Mike

Olliesrevenge, Your buddy is "spot on" when he says that the 4-5oz is the most comfortable IWB that he owns and its his everyday carry. The IWB holster is another "pocket" for a weapon that is shoved inside your trousers. Should the unfortunate occasion ever arise that the weapon has to be drawn a fired, the last thing that person is concerned about is re-holstering the weapon. Therefore, if is does "collaspe", that is a moot point. He probably is in the fight of his life and putting the weapon back, (probably hot) won't be the first thing on his mind. The next thing is "how about when I practice" and the thing collaspes with every draw. Its "practice" and you can work it out by using 2 hands to re-holster. The IWB holster is a "tool", like none other, that is used very seldom. The idea is to get it out quickly and put it into action, the "collaspe" part of it, in my opinion, is something that to many people dwell on in the IWB holster arena. I believe the "comfort" (to steal someones else's thunder "a gun isn't supposed to be comfortable, it's supposed to be "comforting") aspect of the thinner leather far outweights the "collaspe" issue. Again, just my opinion. Semper-fi Mike

I agree w/Lobo and Troop. I use 6-7 oz. for the outside piece of a pancake holster for the lighter weapons, such as Kel-Tec-9, S&W 642 and the featherweights. A holster is a pocket to carry a weapon is all. Take that piece of 6-7 and try to tear it in half with your hands.(send the video, I wanna see it). It does hold the molded shape and it will carry the weapon fine. Again, a lot of holstermakers have overlooked a treasure trove when they say that the 6-7 is too lightweight. I probably wouldn't use it for a fullsize steel 1911, but I would use it for a alloy (Kimber) or the lightweight class of larger caliber weapons. JMHO Semper-fi Mike

Is the Leather Sheen or Satin Sheen waterproof??? Also, do you believe it is a better finish than resolene on a holster?? Thanks. Semper-fi MIke

Cowboy Thunder, I sent you an e-mail. Semper-fi MIke

I agree with Tac. I would do the 2 strips of leather the height of that killer front sight would be best. I would think glueing them would surfice. Glue is super tough and would stay the where you put. it. Semper-fi MIke

Particle, Thanks for the rundown. Semper-fi Mike

Particle, My preference for the j-frame (alloy or steel) pancake is 8-9 oz in back (or against your body) and 6-7 oz. on the outside. I also don't re-enforce the throat, minimum boning except in the trigger-guard area and a straight shot up from the cylinder. As per Dwight, I also "funnelize" the throat opening for the cylinder.I also, make the holster in less of a "body molded" shape as I want the operator to tighten the belt in such a way as it pulls the thinner weight leather in the front just a little tighter against the weapon for added retention. Hope this helps some anyways. You have created quite a beautiful piece and I always enjoy the pictures of them. I really don't know how to post pictures, but when I do, I'll have some to show. My belief (JMHO) is that a lot of concealed-carry holsters are made with leather that is a bit to heavy for the piece. Thie holster is a "pocket" that is carrying a piece that doesn't weight a whole lot and leather is quite strong. Again, just my opinion. Semper-fi Mike PS. Question, not to steal this thread, PM if you wish. I realize you must sew as a last operation, so how do you keep it so clean? Thanks

rdb, Thanks for the info. I'll check it out. Semper-fi from the west side!!! MIke

If anyone has the book..."Gun Digest of Holsters and other Gunleather by Roger Combs" and wants to sell it, let me know. Thanks Semper-fi Mike

Hyde, you can get rid of the tackiness that resolene leaves by rubbing on some Kiwi Neutral Shoe polish and buff. Semper-fi Mike

RWP, I believe your thinking of the HF-1 from Tucker Gunleater. I've made something similiar and William Tucker was my inspriration. I will not sell them as it was not my design, but thats just me. It was not an easy holster for me to make, but it is my favorite. It pulls the 1911 in real close in front and it does allow it to ride high because of all the rigidity from that front piece of leather. By the way, it is a Askins Avenger style, just with a belt loop in front instead of behind the slide. Semper-fi Mike

Banjoman, Try Vinegaroon (vinegar black) and you'll never go back. Use the "search" or the How do I do it section for "vinegaroon". Semper-fi Mike

RWP, Tac's first holster appears to be "full quill orstritch", if I'm not mistaken. All of them-thar holsters, belts and accessories look to be most excellent workmanship in the first degree. Semper-fi MIke