mulefool

My shop was built from plans for a 24 X 36 barn. It seemed big til I put all my stuff in it. One corner has a little showroom area and behind that a small office area. I have two 4X 8 cutting tables with polyethylene butcher block cutting sssurface. I love that stuff, but after awhile it gets pretty chewed up. I heard once you can kind of re surface it by melting the surface with a blow torch, that sounds like a potential disaster to me. Unfortunately I find that one tof the tables becomes storage space for on going projects. My biggest problems are storage of projects and work that is done and needing picked up, and storage of leather scrap. I have 2 sewing machines, a Landis 3 and a Chandler. I also picked up a clicker last year and that takes up a bit of space. Once you set one of those things down, you kind of hate to try and move it again. I've done a few major re arrangement of the space over the last 10 years. A big mistake in building it was not putting in a sink. what was I thinking? But I didn't want to deal with getting a plumbing permit. Next time..........

I'm still using a wood drawdown I built in 1983. Every time I see a picture of one of Rons or Weavers, I want one pretty bad. A few years ago I picked up a hydraulic stand for a beauty shop chair, which I planned to make into a new drawdown. I see them from time to time I picked this up for maybe 20 bucks. My biggest problem, and I know I'm not alone in this, is that if I'm out working in the shop, do I work on that draw down or finish one of the many orders I'm running behind on? Well, I guess maybe if I had a decent drawdown I wouldn't be so far behind...................

Well, I can't help you out on identifying the saddle, but it sure looks like the silver was just an add-on. the carving doesn't appear to have been done with the placement of silver in mind. I do like that swellplate.

I noticed that about the yoke, too. But overall a really nice job!

Thanks Bruce. I might give it a try.

I think it does. On another thread somewhere there was some discussion on this and some people felt if you did a good job, it didn't matter. I'm not sure if on things like pear shaders it makes so much difference, but I sure do notice on things like basket and geometric stamps. The impression is more distinct. Nice and crisp. I think the color os better,too. Since I do this for a living, I can justify the expense of the good tools. Kind of rough when you feel like you have to take out a second mortgage on the house to buy a tool. If I were a hobbyist wanting some nice tools I would probably concentrate on the ones where they need to make a crisp impression, like basket stamps to start with and not feel you have to have ALL expensive ones.

So when you did that, Bruce, did you work the slack UP and tack it at the top? Or did you tack it at the top to hold it in place and work the slack DOWN? I do figure you'd want just the right piece.

Those are dandy. I like 'em.

How do you all cover the neck on a post horn where you stitch all the way around the cap? I have butted the leather together in the back and stitched it together. I talked to a friend the other day who said he knew of someone who kind of made a donut of leather around the neck and worked all the slack out, so there's no seam. Sounded pretty clean and nice and also maybe kind of harrowing. Do any of you do it like this? If not how do you do it?

Bruce, where did you get the set of backgrounders? I've used the same 2 backgrounders for 20 some years. I really like the bargrounders, but only when someone else uses them. I've toyed with getting some from Barry King, but usually just end up getting some kind of geometric or basket if I'm in the mood to part with some money. One thing I do like in regards to the illusion of depth is when the edge of a leaf or some part of the carving overlaps the border. I always think that looks pretty sharp.

Thanks for asking this. I have always struggled with this, too. I get the cuts and beveling deep, but I have trouble with the backgrounding. It seems like if I hit the backgrounder hard enough to get it on the level I want it looks like a big cavern and I chicken out and background lighter. Maybe once you actually get the whole thing done it looks better. I do know it's better when things are properly cased. Does anyone ever press down the background with something like a pear shader first just to get it firm and lower, and then background? I mostly get orders for basket and geometric stamps so I don't get a chance to practice the carving as much as I'd like to stay good at it. Hard to spend time playing around when you're behind on orders.

I thought the saddle looked too far forward as well. I thought I questioned David about that on another thread and he never responded, but I went back and tried to find it and couldn't. :scratchhead: I guess if it's working for you.

Interesting comment by Don. I find I have to stand while I'm carving, too. I thought it was just me!

Well, that would be a high time. Wish I could make it.

That's pretty cool. I was just working out a hitched horsehair pattern in my head and then saw this. It's not quite right for hitching but close, wonder if there's something along those lines for hitching.

Well, I definitely like the "looks" of a Sam Stagg. Definitely gives that period feel and sounds like lookswise it will be appropriate for your saddle. I have to admit I have no experience building a saddle for a Spanish Mustang, mostly QH and mules, plus some Arabs and gaited horses I've primarily built flat plate and in skirt riggings. We all have preferences in what feels right to us so I won't try to talk you into something else. Too bad we can't all get together, pull out your horses and try some different things on them.

WEll, I'm jealous. Someday I'll make it to Sheridan. I've been to the Pendleton show, but I sure do want to see the King Museum. I usually end up buying some tools from Barry King and Bob Douglas.

The way I understand it you would add something like on a Mcclellan, a strap figure eighted between the front and back rigging? I guess I'm with Bruce on this. Sometimes we make things harder than they have to be especially after struggling with a problem for awhile. From my viewpoint I would be surprised if you ever needed more than 3 different positions and that could be accomplished much more simply and elegantly with either a well made flat plate or in skirt 3 way rigging. There's a reason you don't see any Sam Stagg riggings anymore, except on period reproduction saddles. They add bulk and they bind up your stirrup leathers. Just my two cents on it. Speaking of 3 way riggings has anyone used Herb Borks 5085 3 way rigging? It like a "B" rigging, but the middle of the B doesn't connect to the upright. It allow you to move the latigo from the front position to the back without having to unlace the latigo. Put it in a saddle last year and thought it was kind of slicck.

I have used alot of Goliger Leathers mocassin cowhide (Smash) for chaps. It's fairly glovely, but maybe not enough for what you want? I use alot of the "walnut" which is a pretty light buckskin cream color. They used to have it darker, which I liked better. It also seems a bit drier feel than it used to which I don't like as well. I think occassionally Siegel may have what you are looking for, but you never know with them, they get in lots of leather and when it's gone they may not get it again. I hate when they get in something I really like and then they never get it again.

I make quite a bit of pack equipment so I do a fair amount with canvas. I really like the Val A Tearmender latex glue. I use it to glue the leather reinforcements to the canvas. I use Barge when glueing leather to leather. But I sure like the Tearmender and there's no toxic fumes. I've probably saved a couple hundred brain cells since I switched to that.

Although I have bleeder tool I got years ago, I never actually use it. I just use a utility knfe (box cutter). the size of the blade is perfect when doing 3/8 strings. It's interesting what Alan said about lifting the lace up to slide it onto the knife point. I do that too, and never even thought about it. I use 6-7 oz latigo for my saddle strings.

Hmmm, sounds handy. I might do some thinking on how one might be used in my shop and see if it makes sense to get one. Thanks

Thanks, Bruce. Actually that's exactly who I found. I don't have a skiver like that and when I've made my own I did spend alot of time skiving by hand. I'm not sure what a "bell" skiver is though. But maybe I should get one.

Oops, guess I didn't reply right. Thanks for your response, Art. I checked out the Rochford one,but that wasn't really what I was looking for. I have made my own sometimes, but one time I had access to some of the welting used for boots and it was perfect. My supplier quit carrying it. I did find some later today from a bootmaker supply place. They only have 3 colors, I was hoping somebody had a big selection, but maybe there's not that much demand for different colors. Thanks again for your help.