mulefool

I enjoyed your comment about Mrs. Bork. I wondered if I was the only one spending so much time on the phone with her. Just had a nice in person visit when I picked up my order at the Pendelton show. I always enjoy visiting with them. Chris

Weaver Leather has quite a bit of stainless. Chris

I've used a flexible plastic ruler in the same way, but they're a little more brittle, i've broken a couple that way. This sounds like it would be less likely to break. I guess frustration is the mother of invention. thanks for sharing. Chris

Welcome, nice to see another mule afficionado. Chris

Western Horseman magazine has a column called " What's it worth?" where an expert will evaluate readers old gear and give estimated values. email to jennifer.denison@westernhorseman.com. they may have suggestions on where to sell something like that. back in the 80's I picked up an old Hamley formfitter and contacted them to get any info on it. they sent me a copy of the original order placed in 1929. that was pretty cool. if you could get some info like that it might add some value. I have heard that Brighton Feed & Saddlery 800-237-0721 carries old collectable saddles so maybe they would be interested. Chris

I have never used the paste to line new skirts, but I have relined many that were originally put together with it. I've never liked it because as you're taking it apart the paste comes out as a fine powder, or sometimes it comes off in chunks. If you don't see it or brush your table off well enough and then get some water on it makes a mess. Chris

I've always used latigo to line my back cinch and billets. It's more sweat and moisture resistant than skirting leather. Chris

Yes it would be possible, but it won't be easy. You'll need to pull the seat off to do a good job of it. Then depending on what needs done go back to working on it and then put it back together. What is it you think needs to be done to improve it? Chris

the website looks good, I have a Mac and viewed it with Safari. I'm sure surprised though about the comments regarding the phone #. I have mine listed on my website and yes sometimes I wish I didn't answer it, but there is always the option to let it ring. Personally if I had the choice between two makers to contact I would prefer the one with the phone, I have a better chance of getting an answer right now if I have a time sensitive question, rather than wait for someone to answer their email. If there is any problem I have another possible contact method so I would just feel more comfortable. Sure they can always use caller ID and ignore you, but I would just feel more comfortable with as many contact possibilities as possible. With the right message on your answering machine, if you are in the middle of getting things done you can still wait to fit it in to your schedule. But I think I was out voted....so! Chris

I'm a lefty too. I write and eat with my left but throw and bat righthanded. I guess I'm ambidextrous. But my right arm is stronger, probably from pulling the flywheel on my Landis 3. As far as stitch grovers, I've got a Bob Douglas and you can set it up left handed. Chris

Looks like you get your arches from Herb Bork. We designed the modified arch that he manufactures. do you cut your own bars? What kind of wood? Do you wholesale them? If so how much? Chris

Well, probably isn't the most economical, but I think the best leather would be a good quality latigo. I always try to get the best quality so it's expensive, but you might be able to shop around, or there may be places that will just sell a small amount. Chris

You could do it a few different ways. On some saddles you can run those back pad straps to the back cinch rings so you don't need to add anything special. If I build a saddle set up for a britchen I make a tab with a dee with a 1" dee ring and put it under the back jockey right where the back conchos go so that I can screw them in when I screw in under the concho. I like the end of the dee to come just past the edge of the skirt so it's easy to snap the back pad straps even if the rider has saddlebags or a coat tied on the back. I also have made up a kind of plate with two britchen dees and a crupper dee in the middle that can be easily added to a saddle. It can either sit on top of the back jockey or you can pull the back jockey off and install it then replace the back jockey.I wanted to post a pic of one, but haven't quite got that figured out yet. Hope this made sense. I think the important thing is to try and get something strong and easy to get to. Chris

You probably don't need one more person saying the same thing, but I've got to agree it looks like you placed it too far forward. As far as the lump you are describing, if it is indeed a defect, frankly I think the maker should not only fix it at no charge, but also reimburse the shipping charges. It would be good for you to get an honest opinion from another saddlemaker about exactly what the problem is. Another option would be for them to pay to have someone local to you fix. If they figure in shipping costs it might be less expensive for them that way. Stay open with them about what's going on and give them a chance to make things right if there indeed is something wrong with it. Most reputable makers want to stand behind their work. Chris

Hey, Rod, your suggestions are certainly valid and based on alot of miles. I do know that it is possible to get a sore from that knot although many people put it up on the rigging ring without a problem. I have mostly used Deckers and the knot rides just below the board on the half breed so it's not a problem, but I do know guys who like the knot on the cinch ring anyway just because it's easier to get to. Anyway definitely something to think about. On which ring to hook the quarter strap into, I can see an argument either way depending on whats working for you. Some folks like it on the front to help keep it out of the elbows. The cinches in the photo of my pack saddle are actually joined together in the middle rather than two separate cinches, although sometimes its better to have them separate and further apart, particularly on some mules. I really like the Montana Pitch blend dressing for moisture proofing leather. It's a combination of pine pitch, beeswax and mink oil. Especially good on things like hobbles that can really be exposed to alot of moisture. BTW I've read all those Rich Hobson and Paul St Pierre books about your area and really developed a desire to see that country you're in. Chris

A picture on the horse would definitely be helpful. If you are trying to place it on her back based on where you think the cinch should be, rather than where the tree should sit, it could be you are placing it too far forward. But hard to tell without seeing it on the horse. Chris

Glad to hear you went with harness leather. I use a 2 1/2" ring for my rigging rings on double rigged sawbucks. I use 3" on single rigged Deckers. Chris Tornow

Hi Deadeye, I made the last pack saddle you have pictured on the roan horse. Glad you used it as an example of a properly rigged sawbuck. I would like to suggest that you consider using harness leather instead of skirting for your rigging. The harness leather is hot stuffed with waxes and oils to make it more resistant to sweat and moisture. As far as the weight of the leather just be sure it is not too thick to slide smoothly through the conway buckles or you'll drive yourself crazy. Also two quarter straps on each side will help keep your britchen properly adjusted. but if you need something period accurate, I'm not sure what that would be for the era you are interested in. Chris Tornow

Has anyone gotten any Tanners bond Rubber cement lately? I just got a quart and it isn't like rubber cement at all. the consistency is like epoxy and it's pretty sticky. you can't just rub your fingers together to get it off like rubber cement, it's like glue and with an entirely different smell. i just happened to be traveling through Seattle the other day and picked it up at the Tandy's there. I've used it before and it just seemed like regular rubber cement. I'm going to call them as soon as they open, but just wondered if anyone knows about a formula change or something. Thanks, Chris

Sounds like it's unanimous on those graduated circles. Really nice look overall. Did you use hole punches for the outlines of those circles? Chris

"the best way to make it as a full time saddlemaker is to have a wife that works" or a husband. Yep that's true. Part of the problem is the up and down nature of income. If you have a mortgage and regular monthly bills you want a steady reliable income to make sure they get paid. Another problem is health insurance, in the states anyway. We're pretty lucky to have it available through my husbands job, but if we had to go out on the individual market I shudder to think what it would cost, probably over $1000.00 a month for poor coverage that might put everything we have worked for at risk if we had large medical bills. Chris

This has been my full time business for over twenty years, you'd think id have all those bugs worked out by now. My biggest challenge is the same things Bruce struggles with. The fact that a great deal of my time goes into activities that are essential, but don't generate any income. Bookkeeping, placing orders, keeping track of inventory, janitorial work, those sorts of things. There are also alot of things I would like to do, such as research, remodeling the shop area, etc. that would be helpful but yet when the orders are piled up I can't justify working on that when my customer is waiting for an order. I realize many people delegate these things or pay outside help, but I've tried to keep my business manageable for one person. Seems like its hard to find that balance, you're always just alittle too busy, but leery of taking it to the next step and hiring outside help, for fear business will slack off and then you're stuck with an employee. I guess i got a little soured on that when I first went into business. Another saddlemaker and I opened a shop, we got real busy, hired some employees, but it seemed like the employees were the only ones making any money! If you have a slow month it comes out of the bosses pocket. Anyway I think these are common problems for many small business folks. I really admire those that can do the creative work, but are also saavy business people, sometimes that's a rare mix. Chris

Did you check with Sheridan Leather? I got a black angora hide from them a couple years ago and I believe they had brown as well at the time. Trying to dye it seems like it could be a challenge. I wonder how womens hair dye would work? I'd sure try it on some scraps first. or maybe RIT dye. I've used that on horsehair for hitching. Chris

I can't comment on the maker you mentioned, don't know anything about him. In your price range a good used saddle could be a good choice. You might check a publication like Eclectic Horseman's classified section. I've seen some mcCalls listed there and also some reputable makers at what seemed like good prices. Chris

I've always liked that look. I've got some bit hangers I bought in a bunch of silver I bought from a store going out of business. I've also seen some bit hangers made up from the ends of silver spoons. They look cool and are flatter on the back side. Are the spots silver as well? I used to make a similar headstall for Hitching Post supply and Mark Dahl made up the spots in silver. But I haven't seen them made up anywhere else. Chris