mulefool

If you are wondering if there is a way to use the shim idea from Stohlmans book on the 6 1/2" gullet saddle, I don't think that would work too well. If the saddle is too narrow I don't think there will be much you could do about that. Are the molds that your local saddle shop actually trees? it seems like they could just use a bare tree to do the same thing. If you are thinking of getting one of their saddles that might be a good way to go. As far as the Dennis Lane cards, they're really straight forward and easy to use, however you would need to go to a saddlemaker or treemaker that understands how they work I think. Chris

I just got my Dennis Lane cards a few days ago. So far I have only done one horse and one mule. In the past I have always done a tracing of the topline to get a sense of the rock, but what I like about the Dennis Lane cards is that the card for rock actually goes along the part of the back where the tree bar actually rests. It seems so obvious now. Anyway, if you made a profile for rock along that line you could fit that up under the saddle to see how the rock matches up. You would just have to make sure that you marked where the front of the bar would be. It took 10 days for the cards to get from Australia to Washington state. You might be able to get them in time for the Festival. Although if you are only doing one horse you may not want to put out that much. Chris

I can't see it either, and I'd sure like to because I really like your saddles. Chris

Although I can't imagine using anything but a round knife for most things, on the fringe I get great results using a rotary cutter and a clear ruler like the type used by quilters. Run the blade along the edge of the ruler then move it down to the next fringe. Since the ruler is clear you can see that you are cutting consistent fringe and by pressing down on the ruler as you cut you keep the leather from stretching as you cut. Just like with the round knife the key is using a SHARP blade. But the rotary blades are easy to replace and I buy them in bulk. Chris

Looks really good. the design is unique and I like it. Chris

David, there is a woman near Seattle that has one. I have talked to her a few times and also talked to people who went to her to get help with saddles they were having trouble with. Here's her address and phone Gavin Wissler 210 240th St S E Bothell, Washington 98021 USA Phone 425-483-1594 Hope this helps, Chris

About 25 years ago I built a SantaFe style saddle with a mochila. For the life of me I can't seem to remember exactly how I did it, whether I started with fitting the fork or cut a cantle slot first. I'm pretty sure I started with the fork though. I do remember however that I used one piece and did not lace it down the center. On the fork in the middle in front of the horn it was split to pull out the slack around the fork and I used a buckle and billet there. I used my draw down to fit the seat like you usually would. When I cut out my leather I had the back toward the top of the hide and the fork area was towards the belly so it would be easier to mold. The basic shape was square "skirted" although I realize the mochila isn't really a skirt. Since the back skirt area was at the top of the hide it was nice and had alot of body. Since the front corners were towards the belly they were not as good as you'd like (I don't see how you'd get around this) so I remember lining then to stiffen them up so they wouldn't curl. I wish I could find a picture of it. I stamped a Carlos border around the edges and put a flower scroll in the corners. I also had someone make up those sort of oxbow shaped wooden stirrups. I think I got some of the ideas out of "Man Made Mobile". Boy I haven't thought about that saddle in probably 20 years. Oh, I also put a regular ground seat in since I wanted it to be comfortable and rideable. If I were to make one again I would probably do what you are doing Knut and make a pattern out of scrap leather.

Don't overlook networking with your competitors. I attend a few shows a year as a vendor and have become friends with several of my competitors. If I can't fill a customers order for what ever reason I will send them to a competitor. I suppose it might be risky and maybe sometimes I lose a customer to them for other things, but oftentimes my customer really appreciates my help. My biggest competitor is semi retiring and cutting back his business, He has sent me a ton of business over the last year. Chris

Hey Timbo I looked through my scrap and have 4 used latigos. They are USED, REALLY used. They have holes for a tongue and are pretty cracked. But if that's what you want, I'll sent them down to you for the cost of shipping. I keep old parts around for some artist friends of mine that like used leather sometimes, but I have enough to last for years so I can let go of these. Let me know if you want them, and I'll get them out. Chris

You could also install a dee ring for the back rigging the same way you would install it for a front, with a plug, two stitch lines and rivets to hold it in. Chris

When I built saddles with a strainer plate I cut the hole afterward. I started building an all leather ground seat and used the technique with the plug. It seemed like a good idea at the start, but I think on the next saddle I will not use the plug. Now matter how hard I try, when I pull the plug out I find there are some ridges between the layersthat need to be trimmed. I also don't like the amount of work I have to do to make the back of the fork look right. For those of you that cut it afterwards how do you determine the corners? (not that there is an actual "corner", but where you come to the edge of the bar and start up towards the fork.) Do you come up from the under side with an awl to mark the edge of the bar? Do you cut each one from scratch so to speak or do you have a pattern or shape you draw on top to follow? Chris

So what is the reasoning behind wanting a Sam Stagg rigging? Is it strictly for the old timey look?

Thanks for the link. Inspiring work, for sure. That was a pretty cool headstall by Don Butler. Chris

Well, I feel kind of guilty about having so much scrap, but I just seem to generate it faster than I can use it up. I have light to medium weight skirting, plus some 6-7 oz strap. Some are fairly large from lower in the hide, also smaller pieces of the upper parts. I almost hesitate to call some of it scrap, because it's fairly large. I've got a pile up past my knees about 3-4 feet square. I was thinking $2.00 a pound. It seems like it would be perfect for knife sheaths, or something like that. I'd like to sell the whole thing and would be negociable on price for somebody to just take it all. I'm in Northwest Washington state. I'm thinking probably someone within driving distance would be best since you could look it over and the shipping would probably be pretty steep. I also have chap leather scrap, bark tanned woolskin, various hardware I don't use, misc other stuff. Chris YOu could PM me or contact me through my website www.horseandmulegear.com

I was going to suggest seeing if you couldn't find an old saddle that's wore out to pick up cheap and then rebuild it. I was lucky to find an old Hamley for my first project of that sort. I was lucky to find something well made, if it's not you could get some bad ideas. Chris

I've had the same problem with my Landis and at the time ended up doing the screw driver thing to get the thread looped. But it was a one time thing so I didn't want to go messing around with my adjustments. Those skirts of yours do look pretty thick. I've also had problems with the foot marks on heavy leather. I've been leery of lessening the pressure on the foot because it seems like in really heavy leather the awl sometimes has a tendency to stick a bit so if it sticks and there's not enough pressure it pulls the work up as the awl comes up. There's probably a better solution, but on the stitching on the inside of the rigging I run the top piece through the machine first before I assemble everything to make the holes and then just stitch it by hand. It takes a bit longer but I don't have to try and rub out those foot marks. Chris

The billets are 16". I finally got some longer ones from Siegel and cut them off.

Over the years I've seen alot more broken Ralide trees than rawhide covered wood. Also the bars don't have as much bearing surface as most good rawhide covered wood trees, either. I'm not sure I would feel too bad about one in a pony or kids saddle, but for anything that is really used at all, I'm with the traditional tree. Chris

I use polyethylene butcher block cutting board. I have 4 X 8 sheets to cover my cutting tables. It was about 130 for a sheet. I really like it but I've never used anything else , so there could be something better out there. Chris

You know what irks me? When I give a price quote through gritted teeth thinking "Man, this is EXPENSIVE" and the customer says, "Oh, I thought it would be alot more". That's when you know you've probably underbid. Chris

When we talk about a tree having some "life" to it, I'm guessing on these not so much. Chris

I had an interesting experience on my first order with them a few years ago. Somebody accidently added an extra zero to my credit card invoice. When I opened up my one side of leather and looked at the bill it was $800.00!!!!!! They fixed the problem immediately, but what a jaw dropper. One thing I try to do when ordering from a company is establish kind of a relationship with one of the sales people there. I try to always talk to the same person, I try to make sure they understand my quality requirements. By always dealing with the same person I feel they will give me better service and feel more accountable for that, because I will come right back to them if there is a problem and not get shuffled around to different people. Another thing I do is when a person at a particular company gives me really good service, and oftentimes that means they have done a good job of fixing a problem, I will write a letter to management praising them. I think that is the right thing to do, but the upside for me is that employees remember me for that and I feel it encourages them to give me even better service. Glad you got your issue resolved. Chris

Our gelding ended up having it in both stifles and it was on and off. The first time we realized what was going on it locked and I came home to find him frantically trying to run dragging his hind leg. Once you backed him up and it popped back in he was just a bit gimpy on it. At that point it was sore to the touch, but not til then. It seemed pretty dramatic but the vet wasn't that bothered and said often times they grow out of it and to try a very specific conditioning program. It seems like in many cases the key is proper conditioning, although eventually for our horse that wasn't enough. I guess I would have your vet do a work up on yours, and maybe a chiropractor, too. Chris

I was going to suggest stifle problems, too. We have a gelding that had problems at about 4years. For a long time he was just "off" but nothing obvious. Had some chiro adjustments. Eventually he came up with a full blown locking stifle and we think that may have been the problem all along. May not be your problem, but just a thought. Eventually had to have them injected and he's been fine since. Chris

We've probably all experienced something like that at one time or another. The good news is you won't make that mistake again. Especially in this economy we all need to be scrupulous about getting our deposits. People order when they feel flush, but then when the item is ready "Sorry, don't have the money!". Sorry about your deal, but thanks for posting it, it reminds us all to careful. BTW, if it was a good repeat customer, I probably would have made the same mistake. Plus those are really a nice pair of pants.