mulefool

I've had good luck glueing leather to canvas with Tearmender adhesive. I always stitch them as well, but if you good a good bond I think it could do pretty well without stitching. I would definitely hit it well with a French hammer to improve the bond. Chris

They look nice, but I'd like to see them up closer,too. I figured where it looks like skipped stitches was just in the photo. Sometimes I will have that happen, too, and it's frustrating. For your horse trough you might consider tank heaters. Since we put them in it's sure nice not to haver to chop ice, and the stock drink more water, too.

The company was recently bought by www.texascustomdies.com. I just got some dies last week from them. The service was fast and the dies turned out well. Hope this helps. Chris

Boy, I'm really surprised there haven't been more replies to this thread. Guess nobody here makes any mistakes! LOL. I could probably fill a whole forum with the many mistakes I've made. But one which I think encompasses many of them was the idea that because saddlemaking is such a unique craft and business that I didn't have to pay attention to the basic rules that other businesses do to be successful. This was many years ago and with the emergence of publications like Shop Talk and LeatherCrafter and Saddlemakers journal stressing the importance of good business practices perhaps there aren't as many folks making those same mistakes that I did. Chris

I found this in the Tack n' Togs directory: All American Tack 11378 Scout Camp Rd. Bismark, MO. 63624 1 800 595 TACK www.allamericantack.com Maybe this is it???????????Good luck, Chris

I do that on armitas when I use the leather button for the closure, but the strap is only about 3/16" wide and I use a #9 oval punch. I'm assuming you are using a snap and maybe a 5/8" size? I usually do a buckle and billet and on the leg where the buckle goes I punch a bag punch slot into the top of the reinforcement. Then I slide the end of the buckle tab into that slot so that it is sandwiched between the top piece of the leg and the reinforcement overlay. If I use a snap then I slide the end of the strap in that slot and sew it. Around the snap I use a half hitch so that is how it is adjustable. Hope that made sense. Chris

About 6 or 7 years ago I was building some chinks for another company. One night I was surfing the web looking at other makers websites and came upon one. I thought "Gee those chinks look pretty good, kinda like mine................................Wait a minute, THOSE are MINE!!!! They had just lifted the pic from the other companies website. I couldn't believe it. The folks I was building for had copyrighted their catalog and sent a little letter to the offending person and that took care of things. But really, I was just plain flabbergasted, I can't imagine doing such a thing. I guess some people have no shame. Chris

Those are really nice. There's a few things you've done to give them that extra class. Dyeing the edge of the tops and overlays to match the fringe is real nice. I noticed you've put what appears to be a rolled edge on the top of the yoke. That's a nice touch I've never seen before. that corkscrew fringe sure takes some time. I'd say I have about the same amount of time into doing as you do. That's nice to hear since I thought I was just slow. When I corkscrew them I tack them down so I can corkscrew them to all the same length and they stay. then I let them dry. when I pull the tacks there is a little hole from the tack and I trim the ends on a diagonal, it gets rid of the hole and I think it looks nice as well. Chris

Unfortunately Kevin, you're probably right. As far as the halter hardware, I don't actually use regular halter hardware. Most typical mule halters are 1 1/2" wide heavy harness leather. For the hardware where the noseband meets the cheek, on the draw chain halters I use a really heavy stainless steel square, and at the top of the cheek a heavy 1 1/2" stainless steel britchen dee. I really like the rope halters, and use one on my own mule, but most outfitters are probably going to want draw chain halters as persuaders to keep everybody in line in the string. I've got two different styles of mule halters shown on my website www.horseandmulegear.com if anybody is curious about the typical style. I kind of have mixed feelings about them, in the wrong hands they can be pretty harsh but I'm also fully aware of the problems a balky animal could cause in the midst of a string on the side of a mountain. Chris

I have never worked with Biothane, so I can't help you on that, but I do build alot of mule halters, both draw chain and leather draw. I use stainless steel hardware for everything, they can take a beating and usually aren't very well maintained, so I want to make them as durable as possible. Anyway I get all the hardware from Weaver, they have a good selection in stainless. (although the chain is not stainless) If you need advice on a specific piece do you have a picture of the halters? by the time you take those things apart and replace with decent hardware he could have about as much into them as he bought them new I would think. Chris

It takes all kinds, doesn't it.........................Yikes! Chris

I build alot of pack saddles which are pretty much alot of straps. I always buy harness backs, I just don't have a use for the bellies. I do buy sides for the britchen seats and breast collars so I do have some belly if I ever need it. I'm not sure if it works out to much, but you may save some shipping charges in the long run since they weigh less. Chris

As a newbie I'm not sure you want to spend alot at first, but Bob Douglas in Sheridan makes the best groover around. the Versa Groover runs about $75.00 and you can buy the tips for I think $20.00. Maybe one of those tips would fit in the handle you've got. It will be sharp. I don't have his # handy by the computer but if you want to check it out I'll look it up for you. Chris

I got stainless steel escutcheon pins from Sheridan Leather Outfitters. 888-803-3030. 1/2" long. Seem to work just right. Chris

Are you sure that's your first? It looks really good. I really like what you did with the horncap. Chris

I'll bet your girls are going to be pretty proud riding their custom made saddle. Not too many kids get one. Did you have any trouble getting a tree to fit a Shetland? Looks good especially for a first attempt. On the next one you might try keeping the welt on the fork below the point of the shoulder (of the fork). Good Luck, Chris

I really like your overall design and the combination of the floral with the geometric. Your style is a little different. In a good way. Chris

Even if it wasn't torn, I would steer clear of that saddle. The skirts are crooked, and I'm not sure what they lined them with, but it doesn't look good. Are you looking for a saddle for a mule? Ssome manufacturers will just throw some britchen and crupper dees on and call it a mule saddle. Others have a tree with flatter bars, but that certainly doesn't mean it will fit all mules. Chris I also wonder about buying saddles on Ebay. It seems like making sure it would fit would be pretty important. Especially with some off brand or unknown saddle seems like buying a pig in a poke. maybe okay if buying a known brand that you know their trees will fit, but otherwise just seems pretty iffy to me.

I'd have to agree with everything Bruce said. That seat looks pretty uncomfortable to me. I think after a day hunting you might WISH your horse would roll on it and break it. LOL Chris

Thanks, Steve, that makes sense. The fork cover has always been one of the first things I do, after building the ground seat, but there's really no reason it would have to go in that order. There's so many things we go along doing a certain way without thinking if there could be a better way to try. You're probably right about those stirrup slots. too, but I always struggle to get the corners. Thanks again. Chris

I had decided to start cutting the hand hole afterwards, too. Would you mind saying a few words about how you determine the corners and shape? Do you just draw a curve that looks right each time or do you have a template you use to make the curve the way you like? I'm assuming you would maybe come up from the bottom with an awl blade to determine where you want the corners to be. I imagine you could stick the awl through from the bottom to determine the top of the curve behind the fork as well? Or is there a better way? The part that has me worried the most is the curve against the back of the fork. I see lots of possibilities for disaster there. Thanks for taking the time to show us how you do it. One other question, I had been thinking about also using plugs so I wouldn't have to cut the stirrups leather slots afterwards. Is there a reason you prefer not to? Thanks, Chris

I do lots of work with leather on canvas (pack bags, half breeds for pack saddles) I've had really good luck with a product called Val A Tearmender. Apply to each piece, when it's tacky put them together. If it doesn't seem like it is adhering right at first I might tap with a French hammer to help it adhere. Chris

I think comparing our rate to a car mechanic is a pretty good way to go. something I keep wanting to do is have my shop rate posted along with a minimum rate. Maybe more for my self than the customers. Seems like if it's in writing I might do a better job of holding to it. $$hobby, even though you spend more time writing all that stuff down and taking notes, in the long run you will probably save money in not having to reinvent the wheel when you get a similar job, or are trying to figure a price quote. I keep making a stab at doing that, but don't follow through as often as I should. Chris

Those are really, really nice. I'd love to see more of your work. But I almost missed these, just by chance saw a chap post down here. I usually just look at the saddlemaking area. Chris

Turned out good. I'm wondering what you lined the skirts with, it doesn't look like sheepskin. It looks like maybe you used splits over foam? or is it just the photo? Chris