mulefool

Well, they looked so uniform I thought they were clicked. Looks good. I always hated cutting out those billet ends by hand. Chris

There's some happy buckaroos down in Georgia. Do you cut those out or do you have a clicker?

Is this actually going to be used as a bronc halter? Or is it just for a regular horse but with the wide noseband that is popular right now? I make alot of mule halters with the wide noseband and I line with latigo. I would use 7-8 oz. latigo and stitch it on. It will add some stiffness and it burnishes better than chap leather. Chris

Some of those letters have some pretty thin lines on them. (I'm thinking the inside lines in the "U", and the uprights on the "N") If you cut the outline with a swivel knife and then bevel very deeply, you might have some problems with such a thin little piece of leather sticking up. I would probably do a practice piece of one of the letters with the thinnest lines to see how it works out. You might be able to modify the letters some by widening those out or even eliminating them altogether if possible. Chris

You might start with a personalized email thanking the customer for their business and asking about the specific item they purchased and how it is working for them. Then maybe tell them what you would like to do and let them know you do not want to bother them if they don't want it and give them an opportunity to unsubscribe at that point. Chris

Anyway you could post a pic of the name in Old English? In general when I have carved names I usually just cut out the outline and then bevel around it, depending on how it looks I might background around it. I have also cut out the outline and then recessed the letters by beveling the letter itself instead of around it. You might run into problems with things like really sharp serifs on the letters so it would be good to see it and then make suggestions. Chris

I use Hitching Post Supply, too. I have bought some colors from them, but mostly dye my own using Rit Dye, if I want something other than white, black or sorrel. Are you doing hitching? Chris

So I keep looking at this and seeing really nice little details. Also thinking about how easy it would be to accidently get some dye on the wrong part. But I'm curious about the horn. I see your escutcheon pins on the underside. At first I thought it was a binding, but then I realized I didn't see any stitch line on top. Does the cap come down and form the binding and then it is just pinned in place so there is no stitch line? Whatever it is, it looks sharp. Chris

Really nice, kicking it up three or four notches, at least.

Hey thanks for the responses. I forgot Ron made one. This info gives me some food for thought. Chris

Thanks for posting that link. I sure like seeing how others put saddles together. It's also great for his customers to really see what goes into building a saddle. Chris

I have been thinking about getting one of those saddle stands that articulates for different angles and such, like what Weaver carries. I also know it's possible to just buy a sort of ball joint thing separately and make my own. Does anyone here have one of Weavers or any other manufactured one? Do you like it? Are there things you would change on it? I've already got a barber chair stand that raises with a foot pedal that I've been meaning to make a stand out of, but buying one already made that has the bugs worked out it has alot of appeal. Chris

Well, if you are looking for a critique I guess the thing that kind of jumps out at me is the flow of the lines. The front of the skirt is very square but the back is rounded. This kind of thing is certainly personal preference but for my taste I would like to see either square or rounded but not a combination. I would also like to see the line of the back jockey compliment the line of the skirt. it may look more jarring because the jockey, seat and fenders have a border, but the skirts don't and they are also a different color so it just kind of jumps out. If you just finished the saddle it may be that the oil just hasn't evened out on the skirts, though. Thanks for posting your pic. Once I figure out the computer thing I would like some critiques, too. There are alot of people with good suggestions on here. Chris

I learned to build saddles using a strainer plate but about 10 years ago I tried an all leather ground seat and that's all I 've done since. It seemed like it came together better and it was easier to get the shape I like. That first saddle gets rode alot and seems to be holding up fine. Chris

I had an opportunity to ride one a few years ago. It was just skeleton rigged. I liked it alot. The seat felt good and I liked the cable rigging, no bulk at all. Chris

I cut the harness leather strap 1 1/2" X 26" long. I cut a liner of oil tan leather 12" X 4". I fold the outside edges of the liner to the center line and glue and hammer down to form a rolled edge to be sewn to the strap. I rivet the dee into the strap first and then the buckle. Instead of the hobble chains available from hardware suppliers I use 2 Stainless steel 1 1/2" britchen dees and SS #150 1 1/2" buckle. So then I have the two cuffs and I get a heel chain swivel and attach the cuffs to the swivel with quick links. This way, no plated steel to rust next to the leather, and I also have two stake out cuffs if need be. There's other ways to do it, but this has worked well for me. Hope it helps. This link might help to show how I do it http://www.horseandmulegear.com/catalog.php#hobbles. good Luck, Chris

Fried leather????????Yikes, I've seen some leather like that, but I don't think it could happen here in Washington. I remember when I was a kid people would get new gear and stick it in a bucket of neatsfoot for a week. It's funny but sometimes the people who want to take the best care of their saddles are the ones that over oil them to death. I had an immaculate little old guy bring his saddle in and I could barely stand to touch it. Every time he rode he must have had an oil slick on his seat. I had to make him promise he wouldn't oil, just clean it for at least five years. Chris

When I get to the shop tomorrow I'll try to remember to get a measurement on the strap for you. But just a word of caution on lining them with sheepskin. Sheepskin will pick up burrs and debris. Also if you turn them out in a wet meadow to graze the wool will soak up water and it softens the skin on the pasterns, making them more prone to chafing. Latigo or oil tan leather is really a better choice. I use Hermann Oak harness leather for the strap and oil tan for the liners and it seems to work really well. Chris

There is a gal about an hour from here that has one of those computer saddle fitting pads. The way I understand it you put on the pad which has sensors in it that is somehow hooked to a computer. She has the person ride and it shows up on a screen where there are hot spots. She sells saddles, too and will take a bunch out along with different pads and play around with them to get a fit with no hot spots. I have talked to people who felt it was useful for them. Do the English saddle fitters also do the adjusting of the wool in the panels? Or do they just describe what is wrong and then the owner takes the saddle to a saddle repair person? Chris

I don't know if you have a physical storefront, but if you don't are there any local shops where you could sell your wares on consignment? Those bracelets could go in a womans clothing boutique or our local food co-op has a gift shop where they like to have local artisans work. Your cuffs and such would appeal to the cowboy mounted shooting crowd. Is there any of that thing going on around you? any local gun shops that might stock your holsters? you've probably already thought of these things, but I thought I'd mention them. One thing that is so frustrating is that when things are slow you have the TIME to work on building inventory, but not the MONEY! Chris

I'm not sure about this in the legal sense, but maybe if you emailed her and got her to email you back stating that she understands the saddle in not fit for riding that might be sufficient. but as I said, I'm not sure if that would be legal defense in case of any problem. Chris

Just wanted to second what Bob said. I do have liability insurance as well, but I try to make sure I'll never need it. If a saddle is just not going to safe no matter what I might do, or if the owner doesn't want to repair it to a safe condition i pass on it. The only time I may have broken that policy was a saddle that the owner SWORE was only going to be a decoration in their living room. On the invoice I wrote that the saddle was NOT safe for riding and had them sign it. Chris

I agree about keeping the sheets off. Also, if it's not a huge area just keeping a light on can make a difference. Chris

Well, you have inspired me to try some olive oil. I know I like it on a salad so maybe a saddle. What about color? is it less likely to darken leather? I kind of like the color to darken somewhat. As far as ricin in olive oil, I had never heard that. If you are talking about ricin the poison; that comes from the castor bean plant so I wonder if you are thinking of it being in castor oil?

It would be helpful to know exactly what work you want to do on it. But a suggestion if you aren't sure you will get it back together right is to take pictures as you disassemble it, and remember you don't want any parts left over. Chris