catskin

Thanks Wiz for the life size pictures it helps me know what to look for. Twin Oaks, Thanks for the heads up on the vid. BUT with my dialup internet it might take me a week to down load it. If it comes to that maybe I can get somebody with highspeed to put it on a CD.

Well Wiz you seem more optimistic that I will buy that ULS then I feel. But you are giving me VERY valuable advice and I am greatfull. I think it will likely come down to how the other stuff is priced. I think it was most all bought at Tandy which means he likely paid more, possibly a lot more then I can get it from other suppliers. I do expect to see the ULS if for no other reason then that I've never seem one before. Its almost worth 3 hours drive each way just to see it. Thanks for the advice on the fur machine.

After looking at the pictures again I see it has already been done with pulleys and bearings. Looks like about 3 to 1 reduction but by changeing the bigger pulley it could be slowed down more. I just got pictures of the stitchs it made and they look very good. Still wondering if there would be any chance of selling the fur machine if I took the whole lot.

Since you are moving, if I am right Ohio is closer to NYC than LA. is so you could check with Toledo sewing machine too and shipping might be less sent straight to NYC. I think Bob and Steve are both very good sources of both new and used machines.

Thanks again Wiz. Would it hurt to make a speed reducer to slow this machine down. It will likely be at least a week before I see this machine but thought doing my homework so to speak now would make sense. Also can anybody tell me if there might be a market for a fur sewing machine. And at what price? There is one that could come with this deal if I bought the lot. I would likely have no use for it.

Thanks A LOT Wiz. This is very valueable info. This is not a one machine deal it is a case where somebody tried to start a shop and changed his mind due to other work. There is the ULS some hand tools leather, buckles etc.etc. IF I buy I might be pretty much on my own with learning this machine. We will have to see what happens. Would there be a place I could get the instuctions? If they are not included. Down load and print or something? The price will have to right or no deal. I found your ad in used and printed it for reference now I feel I can look at it with a clue as to what should be there.

I came across a union lockstitch for sale within driving distance. Can anybody give me some idea what it can or cannot do. Like how thick it will sew, how hard it would be to keep it sewing. And what the resale value might be IF it turned out to be not a machine I get along with well. Also what to look at as far as where it is most likely to be worn before I buy it. I know some of you have or have had them so would be greatful for your opinions.

I was reading not long ago someone claiming that there is common a needle that is the same as the 97x4 EXCEPT that it is 1/16th or 1/32 longer. But I can't for the life of me remember where I read it. So they just carefully grind the shank down that much and they work. Might be worth checking in case that is true.

Saddle stiching is good, but anybody with a bit of practice can do a good job with an awl that has the bobbin in it.As with any tool you just need to know how to use it. Drilling holes to stitch in will NEVER give you a good stitch by removeing leather in the hole the leather will never settle back in around the thread so if the thread ever broke at one stitch it will all come undone very quickly. Drilling holes is more laceing than sewing. Putting a sewing machine needle or awl blade in a small drill press and NOT running it you can do a good job making the holes to sew in. They are nice and straight down just put a thick piece of scrap leather underneath or a piece of wood with a small hole for the needle to go through.

How about running the thread through a small piece of foam just before the guide above the cone/ spool. This would add just an ounce of tension and keep the thread from looping. I have also heard of putting a knitted tube of some sort over the spool. One lady uses a piece from the leg of worn out pantyhose.

I would check to make sure the thread is coming off the spool/cone smoothly. Sounds like it is binding slightly someplace between the spool and the needle every few stiches.

A boss would be not anywhere near as big as a CB 4500 with stand motor and all. Shipping by truck was $250. from Toledo to Sask. and including closed highways it was here in 10 days. You would have to pay provincial tax on a new machine but likely can't get around that anyway if you buy new.

Shipping I can't guess on BUT there is NO duty on sewing machines coming to Canada. I shipped in a CB 4500 a year ago.

I am looking for a Canadian supplier of buckles and rings. I make mostly pony size harness so need buckles from 1/2 inch to about 1 1/2 inches. And rings 1 to 2 inch. Western rawhide has the style I like but at tack shops they are 5 times the price I pay for heavier ones from Ontario. Where I have been getting them they don't seem to stock the style I like for breeching and hame straps.

What kinds of leather do you use? I take hides right to a tannery in Manitoba and get them done . Beautiful job. I have about 20 sides on hand at the moment so I need to get to work. You can try Halfords in Edmonton 1-800-353-7864 Or google halfords leather. I have not used their leather but they do sell a lot. If I remember right Great west has a store in Calgary too. Or just goolge leather Canada.

As stated it was an IDEA, a random thought, Not even a suggestion .Do I need to explain the difference?

If you read my post it says IDEA. Now you have your opinoins of which I don't always agree and I have mine. Now you also should see that I would not benifit directly from this idea. As for my being a CONTRIBUTING member (nor is this person) I have supported and do support companies who pay to advertise on this site (maybe not yours yet) to the tune of several thousand dollars so in that way I have made a contribution. I also am not expecting to make huge amounts of money from the advice I get or have gotten here as I am sure this person is hoping to. I have yet to gain even $1.00 directly from anything this site has given me. I have leaned some but nothing that has payed me in any way.

Having tanned a few cow hides myself I think Ken hit this one dead on. And the others are all pretty close. I strongly believe that once the hair is off, the hides with the fewest imperfections on the suface get sorted into the garment and upholstery line. So the saddlery and other types get the next level down.

Here is an idea. Since X-tine is NOT a leather worker and by her own admission knows NOTHING about leather but is simply here to get information to make her book worth more than just to fill some publishers trash bin. How about she donate a pecentage maybe 10% of all proceeds to support Leatherworler.net? As a token of thanks to all members who assisted her. Since it clearly would have been worthless without the information members are giving her for FREE? How many agree?

Check with Bob Kovar at Toledo sewing machine. He has ads on this site top of page. He can give you all the info. you need and might even have a used machine with warranty as good as new. He also has new machines for every job at good prices.

As the topic says I am hoping to find a plough gauge type strap cutter. I will consider all even fixer uppers ex. broken, parts missing or damaged

Thanks for the information, I checked them out as best I could. Seems I will just have to keep looking since the amount I would use one I can't justify that price. Would anyone give me a clue as to where they have found used ones. Antique shops or pawn shops and such? P.M. if you wish, I am far enough from most of you I would likely not get one you would find anyway.

I gather you not making this tack just buying cheap tack and jassing it up. What kind of paint are you using? Most paint will harm the leather if it isn't special made for leather. So if the paint is wrong nothing will protect it.

Does anyone know where a new plough gauge can be bought ? I find lots for sale all claimed to be 100+ years old surely somebody has made, or makes them since the 1800s.

My 29K51 has it. I too thought it was on all patchers.