catskin

I know 2 people that have Landis #1's and both told me they use pearson needles. Even if you had to make a bit of adjustment it would still be worth it. I wish I could find one at that price. I know of one and the guy wants $2500 for it. So the $250 is just makeing stealing it LEGAL. Lucky you.

I suggest if the people that make / sell the machine can't supply the needle you need don't buy the machine.

VERY well put !!!!!!!!

I am just poking my nose in here in hopes it might help. While I don't have a Landis #1 I know of 2 and both owners told me they use Peirson needles in these machines. So if you have trouble getting needles this might be worth looking into even if it took a bit of adjusting to make them work.

I know 2 people who have or had #1 Landis machines and the both told me they use the same needle as Pearson machines. So might be worth checking.

While this will not keep your machine exactly original but it will eliminate slipping. I did this on a big old machine, I replaced the belt with sprockets and a chain. In my case I used sprockets and chain from 2 bikes with very little machineing and drilling 6 small holes I was able to put a sprocket on the side of the clutch pulley and one on the side of the pulley on the fly wheel on the machine. All this without harming the pulleys so it could be put back to belt drive in about half an hour if I chose to. Now I can start out with the needle touching the leather and go through 7/8 leather just stepping on the clutch pedal. Don't see why it would not work even if you stay with the treadle drive.

Do I qualifiy for a chunk of free leather to test in my work? I am not too fussy since it would be mostly cut in strips and sewed up for light harness. It would not have to be slaughter free, anything suitable for pleasure driving pony harness would do. Flaws and brands would be okay.

Steve I didn't mean any harm with my question, just wondered since some may not consider a needle SLAUGHTER. Being from Canada I've read some of the stories as to what some people have done with horses. And some is NOT nice.

Interesting subject. Now to through a cat in the tub of feathers. (as the saying around here is) A question for Steve. Would all the horses that are dying in the US since horse slaughter for food, has been banned, from all sorts of things including starvation and the "pet" horses that are killed with a needle (by a vet ) qualify for this program?

Did you ever considered sending the needle bar to Bob Kovar? I bet he can get those screws out and save the needle bar. Postage shouldn't be much compared to if you damage the screws and end up having to get a new needle bar.

Here is a bit of advice based on my RECENT experiance. ( within the last month ) I to am from Canada and wanted a machine NOW. I contacted Techsew and was told they had no 180-2 machines in stock at the time and it would be ABOUT 3 weeks till they got any. They might have some by now. I talked to Ryan at Neels saddlery same story. SO I phoned Bob Kovar he had the Cowboysew 4500 IN STOCK, 10 days later I was sewing with my new machine. They also have a special on where virtually every attachment is included, stuirup plate, holster plate,blanket feet, table, etc at no extra price. The claim is that the attachments are worth $1200. if bought seperately. While they claim they sew 3/4 inch I have gone right along on 7/8 plus like it was butter. There is NO duty you have to pay the tax but you have to any way. Shipping took 6 days including 2 days delay because of closed highways. Shipping was $240.00. Toledo is actually closer then Montreal. Might be worth a look.

Thanks for the help. On the turning hard by hand I guess I got confused after reading a post by Jim saddler saying how easy Cowboy sew machines turn by hand. After checking I find that thread was started quite some time ago. And those machines probably had a different motor /drive system on them. I find this to be a VERY GOOD machine, I am happy with it. I do have one suggestion for the company, and that is to make up and include some instructions for the motor /drive system so buyers would know what they are meant to do and how they are meant to do it.

I just got my new machine and there were no instructions included relating to the servo motor and drive. So here are my questions. 1. Why is it EXTREMELY hard to turn by hand with the belt on? ( such as when you want to lift the needle ) Is there a brake that needs ajusting? It drives fine with the motor. I tried to just put a little pressure on the foot pedal to see if it would release a brake, but it either drives the machine or seems to have a brake on. Should the motor turn when it is turned by hand? If there is a brake should it release even when the power ( red / green button )switch is off? 2. What is the plugin on the back of the motor case meant to be used for? 3. Why when I reverse it is there a bit of thread tangle on the bottom? I only reverse it when it is stopped.

Something for you all to think about. I keep my personal opinions to my self. This is the opinion stated by several psycoligists in an article I read recently. For the majority of younger people getting peirced these days, It is a form of self mutiation stemming from an unstable mental state. This would NOT include those such as the native American who does it for cultural reasons.

To Greenwood, Hi neighbor, (well sort of) I to am from Sask. southeast of Regina 100 miles. I will be getting my new machine Monday. It is coming from the US since I found one on a deal where most of the attachments that are usually optional are included at what they claim is no extra cost. It was supposed to be here thursday but is sitting in Regina, the truckers are blameing the delay on the weather , saying they got backed up because the highways were closed. Maybe we need to get together some time, we might be able to trade bits of information that would help each other.

I was sent info. recently on all the uses of WD 40 and IF it is true, it is nothing more than FISH OIL. It was claimed that it is NON TOXIC. IF and I do say if that is true the claim that it has solvents in it might be questionable. As for its lubricating qualities I am making no claims either way. I will be interested if somebody checks this out as to its true contents. I haven't had time yet.

Thanks Wiz, Wish I'd realized it was missing a few days ago. I am just had some stuff sent from Bob, that spring and a threading rod would not have added much weight. :lol:

Just wondering does the 29K51 have that spring in the needle bar to? If so mine is missing. If it does where are they available?

Nice job on the stand. I have a 29K51 complete with stand made in Clydebank Scotland in 1930 that sews good, all original paint with just a few chips, original treadle drive. Just to see how wide a range of opinions there, are what would you think it would be worth IF I decided to sell it?

I am NOT an expert as some are BUT I just fixed the same problem on one of my machines today. Make SURE the presser foot is pressing down hard enough. On mine the pressr foot was not going down far enough. it was worn so it was holding the leather down enough to feed good but would let the leather lift a few THOUSANTHS of an inch thus the top thread was not pulled far enough back. Its worth a try. Or change feet to see if that makes a difference. Or if some thing is keeping the foot from going down the last couple 1/000ths. After studying the pics again I am wondering if the hole or slot in the foot might be to big/wide. and the material is lifting into the hole or slot slightly ( think 1/000ths of an inch) as the thread is being pulled tight. Or the bottom of the foot is not flat and allows the material to lift at the stitch even though it holds it tight behind where the stitch is being formed. All of these can cause what you describe.

I am curious as to how many of you have tanned hides? Right from skinning the cow to making a product from the leather, as I have.

My guess is that the flywheel is stuck a bit on the shaft it should spin on. You might have to oil it or even thake it off and clean up the shaft and bore in the wheel. Not very likely caused by wear.

First off I will introduce myself. I am from Canada and make and fix light harness as a hobby. I have a singer 29K51 and an Adler 20-2 for machines. Now I sure could use some of your advise. I am considering buying a Techsew 180-2 machine. Can any of you give an opinion as to how good or bad this machine is. Having been reading on here, there seen to be a lot of makes of machines that work pretty well. The reason I am considering Techsew is the dealer is in Canada. Getting one shipped in from outside of Canada could be a hassle. So would be greatful for any input. A couple more questions. Will this machine sew up close enough to double buckles? Will this machine sew several plies of 1/2 wide leather down the middle? Thanks in advance for any info you provide.