catskin

Thankyou both for your suggestions, I tried both and the result was the same. By the time I got the page narrow enough to fit the screen the print was so small it was unreadable, so I guess this is the way it will be. I don't claim to know anything about computers , but still wonder why the pages can't be made to fit the screen like it does when I write an E-mail on a wide piece then change the size of the area it will automaticly make more lines of type so it still all fits the narrower space.

This isn't a complaint more a question. Before you FIXED this it worked fine. Now I would like to know why the pages are too wide for my screen, I have to keep scrolling 3 inches back and forth sideways to read anything. Before it was FIXED (upgraded ) the pages fit the screen. Was much easier reading before. I haven't been on here much the last several months so I'm just noticeing it now that I'm back.

You all seem convinced that there are only 2 countries on earth, China and USA. Last I checked there were several more, like Italy, Germany, etc. I have gotten machinery parts that are made in Italy and they are of the highest guality. Maybe there is some country that still makes quality buckles even if the US no longer has the intelligence / ability to do it.

Are you sure it is not a 29K51? They are a good machine if not wornout, I have one (29K51 ). As for price that depends a lot on where you live. Don't buy until you have tried it on the kind of leather you intend to sew. If you buy it the first thing you do is move that flywheel to the shaft on the front so you can turn it slowly by hand without bending your arm in 3 places when it only has 2 hinges. I am not familiar with the type of bag you wish to sew so will not give an opinion as to suitability.

Every shop has them. The surpriseing part is 90++% of the time in order to see them you have to look in a mirror.

Thank you Thank you Thank you. I checked mine out and it was OFF slightly about a 1/4 of a needle width in 5 stitches so I only had to turn the knob about an 1/8 of a turn. I am guessing we may have to check this each time we change stitch length.

Kevin or Bob, I would be very greatful if one of you would tell me what you adjusted to get this fixed. And if possible post a picture of what you adjusted. Mine seems to be OFF just a bit so I think I would like to check it out. I believe it will only need a small adjustment but don't want to start in the wrong place and make a little problem into a big one. Thanks in advance for any help you give.

From your descripion it sound like 3 pieces of rod 2 drill bits and 1/2 hours time to make.

Helmut, You are a very generous person. If you weren't 2000 miles away I'd have been there in a flash. My only complaint would have been your prices are TOO LOW. I would have insisted you raise them at least a bit. Now here is something I saw happen might be worth a try. This person offered to GIVE away a bunch of things, no takers, So a while later they advertised it price or best offer. Sold most in a week and got a pleasant surprise at what they pocketed. Seems a lot of people have the mind set if its free its wothless, which in my opinion is NOT true.

YES but some people seem to not notice that as long as you are alive the skull is covered with leather ( skin ) so the ugly bare bones are not so obvious. To me skulls represent DEATH as in skull and cross bone on poision. While I admit it takes skill to put them on leather I wonder why a person would choose to put a symbol of death on anything that is supposed to be beauty. This is just MY opoinion others have theirs and I respect that.

Lots of good opinions above. Here is what comes to mind for ME when these terms are used. Leathercraft = leather that has been carved, tooled, stamped, dyed painted, etc. Leathercrafter does the above. Leatherwork= harness, shoes,etc. things made from leather without the artistic part. Leatherworker does the leather work. Some things can involve both such as saddles holsters etc.

Mr. Bearman, You clearly are the one who can make any tool so when are you going to strart making plough gauges? It seems there is only one person in North America who has any and a 1000 who need them.

Is this the leather I keep hearing about coming from India that is tanned in cow urine?

Kinda hard to do if they are WOMEN!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Bruce. I was thinking that I should do some measureing of clearances to make sure they are even, and the roller centered under the blade.

You are right these splitters don't have a top roller. I am thinking of makeing a roller or springy piece of metal to hold the leather down so it feeds in level and mount it in front of the splitter.

Thanks guys, I think the roller adjustment was the culprit. I didn't have much time but made some adjustment and it helped. I still need to fine tune it. I will bring in my micrometer and check for wear on the roller to. I have a steel lathe so I could make a new one if I had to.

I have what I have been told from pictures is a Osbourne 86 splitter. When I pull the leather through it tends to move from right to left so that if I am splitting a long piece it will run over to the end of the knife before it is all the way through. The wider the piece the faster it goes sideways. What are the possible reasons for this? It also sometimes will cut off the leather for no obvious reason. Most of the work I do is strips cut the length of the hide so there is some variation as you go from hip to rib to shoulder , can this be the cause? Thanks in advance for any help.

Bob Kovar will likely be less than half the price of Leightons even with shipping. If you want to sew saddle bags that will carry something this machine is to small. You will soon find that any more than 3 ply of deer skin will be its limit. I have a 29K51 which looks the same and it only uses 138 or lighter thread which is not strong enough for saddle bags. Anything less then 277 is to light.

Is there any reason a suitable size leather point sewing machine needle fitted to a handle would not work? Or start with one and make it into an awl.

I can't help wondering with all the toolmakers on here why somebody doesn't start making a few? The design is not rocket science it would only need the more basic machineing tools. So how about it folks who's the next plough gauge maker?

I make horse bridles and own a CB 4500,in my opinion 4500 or equivalent is minimum.

To bad you are not closer so you could come see what I have. I have some latigo and some customed tanned leather that is latigo or very near. What color do you need? If you are interested I can measure what I have, it may not be shoulder but likely back . I am southeast of Regina. If you knew somebody in this area maybe we could arrange transport and save posage.

I am putting this here rather then Marketplace since some may not look there very often. I have some stamping tools, I believe they came from tandy a long time ago since they sat on my shelf for about 25 years. In that time they did one belt. I learned stamping is not my niche. They are stamped craft tool USA. So I think they may be some of the better tools tandy sold, since some on here have said the quality has gone down as the years have passed. Here is what I have. V407 P206 V417 A104 B200 S724 C431 And a swivel knife of the same origin, it likely needs touching up but looks not worn to me. I am open to offers, you can PM me if you are interested. Include $10.00 for postage. If it is less I will refund the difference, if it is more I will pay the rest. I would likely prefer to sell as a lot but will consider offers on single ones. ( in which case postage would be negotiable)

As to how many white parade saddles I've seen. LOTS, they are not rare by many means. At least in my limited experiance. (about 60 years ) The one you have looks very good by the way.