catskin

I bought one and it is SHARP right out of the box. I use it to taper strap ends and works good. Maybe they send better ones to Canada. How long it will stay sharp remains to be seen. If you had checked the number is different then the regular deluxe splitter.

Thank you I will check with them. I am considering buying this clicker and was wondering if anybody knew anything about it. Am I right thinking an older machine made in Italy might be better made then some of the older Chinese stuff/

I think if you read more carefully you would see that what was meant was they USED better steel back then. MEANING that the ones making the tools ( knives etc. ) now are not as careful about choosing and treating the steel as they were back then. Because of the small market now compared to when harness etc. was a big industry.

From the lack of replies I tend to assume these clickers are either very rare or were no good and so now are obsolete. There might be or have been a name on then that I missed seeing but if somebody had or has one they likely would have noticed the MADE in ITALY on it.

I am putting this here since it seems people rarely look at the machinery forum. I posted there several days ago and my post is still at the top. SO here is my question. Does anyone out there have or know anything about a clicker that was sold by Bogle-Greenwell in Texas years ago the tag says made in Italy. It is grey and about 26 inches wide and 52inches long and the whole machine is the same width as the table not like the ones I have been seeing pictures of where the cutting surface is wider than the base. All I have been able to find out with internet searches is that Rea Bogle died and that the business was offered for sale. The web site is still up but the links come up as can't be found. So I am guessing they are no longer in business.

Arron Martin harness in Ontario.

I also have strap end punches and use it for stamping, when I do some, though I don't do much with stamps. The only limit on what a arbor press can do is ones imagination. I modified mine so it takes only seconds to set the handle so it is at the position you want no matter how long the tool in it.

Actually that machine is intended for beveling outer soles for boots. It leaves a rough mark on the good side of the leather. You can run the ends of the leather through it but you only get a short slope with rough ( tracks) and for a clean cut all the way through you have to run a piece of scrap right behind to push the first piece through.

I thought everybody has been doing this for YEEEAAARRRRSSSS. I have.

I got a look at a clicker press yesterday Here is what it says on the plates. sold by Bogle - Greenwell machine corporation Leather Working machinery Dies + supplies Phone 214-262-8652 3100 E. Main St. Grand Prairie Texas the other plate says Type 36 L serial No 380 2324 motor V 220/440 connected V 220/ 60Hz made in Italy I am wondering if any of you have or are familiar with this type of clicker. I understand that it is wired for 220 volt and hooking it up should not be a problem. It has been sitting outside covered with a tarp so will it likely be damaged from moisture. I did not find any rating on it as to tons. The table is about 20 by 30 inches. ( this is a guess ) the whole machine measures about 26 by 52, this I measured within an inch or 2. Can anyone give me any more information on these machines? For example is this company still in business? Does anyone have parts if needed? Any help would be very much appreciated.

Do you have a picture you could post?

I am going to be looking at a clicker soon that I have been offered and was just wondering if changing the motor would be an option as compared to phase converters. After I see it I will have a better idea of hp. tons it puts out etc. Changing switches would be easy enough for me, I do understand that part of electrical just haven't done anything with 3 phase yet.

Is there any reason that a person can't just change the motor on a clicker press to the power available? ( Ex. 220 v ) For example is there other things on it that need power besides the motor?

As it says I would like to buy a singer 78-3 Consew 206 or any similar machine. I am in Saskatchewan so would prefer in Sask. Manitoba or Alberta. or would meet at the border for northern states sellers. Head only or complete table motor and all. I have a 78-3 and am trying to help a friend find one that will do similar jobs. Starting with gloves.

Since you KNOW so much, and can do anything why not just grab you tools and build your own machine. Then it will do everything PERFECTLY EVERY time. You talk about how wrong the machines you've seen pictures of are, if you know how wrong they are you have to know how to make them right.

Thank you all for the help!!!

Would Lily white be the same as the regular sewing machine oil that Bob Kovar sent for my Cowboy 4500?

A bit off topic because it doesn't sew leather. But we are looking at a JUKI MO-358 sub class 8 serger. It calls for defrix num.2 oil in the JUKI manual. What would be the equal to that oil? And if anybody has an estimate of what it should be worth.

One thing that has not been suggested concerning bottom thread tension is there may be lint or dirt under the tension spring on the bobbin holder/ shuttle. try taking out the screw that holds the little leaf tension spring on and see if there might be something under it that stops it from tightening down far enough.

I don't see why anyone would spend the kind of money I see being asked for round ( half round ) punches when you can make them in about 1/2 hour on a lathe. I made mine and showed the cuts to others and was told that they likely were as good as ANY I could have bought. And sharpening is just as easy. Put in the lathe and redo the edge. Plus there is no limit on the size you can make. I could make a whole set for less then Tandy wants for one. Other shapes could be made with a bit more time and a few basic tools.

I would also check for even a microscopic burr (rough spot ) on every thing that the thread slides over as it goes around the bobbin. Something might just have worn a thousandth and made a burr enough to catch ever so slightly.

Big s, . What I have done with bad thread is run it on the bobbin, I have some VERY expensive black thread from tandy that I can not run on top but it runs okay on the bottom, ( Better the scrapping it )

I THINK I have it fixed, thanks all for your advise. I checked all those things. I had a 106- 23 needle in it, that is what I had been using with 207 thread and it HAD been good. BUT this one had a microscopic size burr on it. So changed to a 180- 24 new one and checked the spring travel and it never missed a stitch in 6 inches, it had been skipping one about every 2 inches. The spring was adjusted about as low as it could go, the stop still has room in the slot but the bottom end bottoms in the hollow in the casting. If it needs to be lowered more I will have to use my dremel grinder to remove a bit more cast.

Thanks, will check these out and report back!!!

I know this has been covered before but have not been able to find it. My CB 4500 is missing stitches when using 207 thread top and bottom I am using the needles that were sent with it for 207 thread. I never misses with 277 or 346. I think it just needs a minor adjustment. But rather then go messing around and maybe getting some thing else wrong I decided to ask you experts, Wiz, Bob, etc. It has been inclined to do it since I got it but seems to have gotten worse. Thank for any help.