catskin

I will when I get it. I am not very digital so have not been able to post pictures on here. They were always too big. I might have to email it to you.

Thank you, I have seen a few places where 29U172 was mentioned but likely not quite accurate. YOU are the one that knows the details.

I expect to have a 29U172 A later this week. What is the difference between a 172 and a 172A?

I guess I didn't put a title that drew attention with my other post. So as this one shows my question here it is. What is the difference between a 29U172 and a 29U 172A.

I will measure the plate and post the measurements in thousandths of an inch since I don't have a metric micrometer.

Plate looks VERY MUCH like the one on my Adler 20-2 see if you can find one of them to try. I was told that quite a few parts are interchangeable. IF that is true it might get you what you need. I don't have a spare or would offer it to you. I could measure if you post measurements and tell you if it is the same.

Also what does the A mean after the 172 ? I missed putting the A in my first post.

I have used every search term I can think of and all I got is we can't find what you are looking for. So either search on here is broken or there is nothing about this machine. I am wondering if a Singer 29U172 is a big bobbin patcher?

The easiest way is a conway loop/ buckle. Easy to change bits, holes no bigger then chicago screws, does not come undone and looks good and not thick.

I watched these vids and the knives sure seem to take a lot more pressure to cut with than I thought they should. Judging from the bulge of arm muscles and the way the board underneath moves in the first one. From what I have read and been told they should cut with very little resistance. To the point of being able to shave with. If that is as sharp as they get mine are as good or better. While I thought I was failing on getting them sharp enough.

I actually have a clutch motor on it. But have not sorted out how to make a convenient lever for engaging it. With my speed reducer it goes at a reasonable speed. Just thought the variable speeds with a servo would be nice. I would add a picture but seems the one picture I posted a long time ago took up all my allowance.

From the number of responses kind of looks like I might be the first to try.

Just wondering if anyone has put a servo motor on a BUSM / peirson # 6 machine? Did a search and no luck.

That price is high. BUT there is someone not far from me that is trying to sell one that does not work for $ 950.00. YES $ 950.00. She tells people it good but friend tried it and does not work. Badly worn.

It is similar to a 20-2 but is not a 20-2 likely some 20 sub class I own a good working 20-2 so know a fair bit about them. The 20-2 does not have the gear inside the flywheel nor does it have that kind of foot setup or the coil spring on the front.

It also looks near exactly like the one on my Adler 20-2 even the base.

My suggestion would be to take leather as many ply as you will need to sew. Then add at least one more and test the machine. The reason for more is to be quite sure you will not be using it at the limit of what it can do. Even try to see how much more it can do if pushing the limit. For example if it will handle 2 more ply then you think you will be sewing that's good. I do not know these machines, what I advise would apply to any machine.

Plus 1 for Bikermutt!!!!!

I know this is a really old thread but this is still on topic for mice. If you could attract a few weasels or turn loose a ferret or 2 mice would be gone shortly and stay gone.

From reading on here a lot it seems that there are more then one company that is copying the juki 441. And some seem to have better quality control than others. And that the poor ones get sold as like Cowboy, Cobra etc. on internet E-bay type of places.

The picture does not SHOW what you are describing. It shows flat pieces laid overlapping.

From your picture it looks like simply putting one on top of the other and sew.

If Cowboy machines now are like that I am glad I bought mine several years ago. There are apparently lots of companies copying the JUKI and some do better than others. That is why I wondered if this was maybe a shipped from china machine that was not from the same place Cowboy comes from. But claimed to be equal. For example those parts in the pictures don't look stainless steel as mine are.

When and where did you get this machine? Hardly any parts look like my Cowboy 4500 the parts on yours are all rough where mine are smooth and shiny I have never had to make any adjustments to any parts that came with my machine. Tension discs thread guides bobbin case all look cheap made compared to mine. Or is this just a copy made by somebody else that is supposed to be like a Cowboy.

With the rosin you may not need to sand paper the pulley. Just rib it on the belt. What I do is hold the rosin in my hand or warm it up a bit and run the belt through my hand. Its best to crush it a bit to a powder. It can be bought at most tack shops cheap. I bought about 1/2 lbs. for a couple dollars a few years ago.