catskin

My comment was meant to draw attention to the fact that pulleys as SMALL as 1 1/2 inches are out there and will work on motors with thin enough shafts. And that 1/2 inch DOES make a very noticeable difference.

Here is one thing nobody else has mentioned. This is on a clutch motor BUT it would be equally true on any motor. I just replaced a 2 1/2 inch pulley with one 1 1/2 ( No one mentioned 1 1/2 ) and it makes a big difference. I just happened to have one hanging in my shop that had the right size bore. SO if you could find one smaller than the one on your motor it would bring top speed down even more. ( the one on your machine looks rather big ) The one I used was just a cheap aluminum one but it will work just fine for what I do. Naturally the smallest pulley you can put on will depend on the shaft size but it sure looks like you can go much smaller than what is on there now.

Just a note of interest. When I bought my machine Cowboy 4500 Leightons price for virtually the same machine ( juki 441 clone ) was 2 and a 1/2 times ( picked up at his place), what mine cost me INCLUDING shipping from Toledo and I got just about every optional foot and needle plate included. When I ordered needles from him they were 3 time the price in Winnipeg.

I have not been on here for a long time BUT I have found it much less costly to order from Toledo sewing machines than buying in Saskatoon. When I bought thread in Saskatoon it was $75.00 a lbs. in Toledo it was $15.00 so even with shipping it was the right thing to do and it got to me sooner.

I have a 29k51, I have it working good. So as I said its the table and stand that are possibly interesting. I have seen a few on here that admired others original cast stands, and the original tables seem rather rare. That is why I said that the head is well worn I am wondering what some of you think those things would be worth if you had a chance like this. I know that making it sew well is a crap shoot. I did get my 29k51 making stitches 5 to the inch. Or very close. But this one may very well be beyond fixing the way I did my 51. If the gears are done. No matter how well I happen to get the stitch length it will not sew good. Thinking possibly screws ( my 51 is missing a couple ) and maybe parts that someone needs that are broken or missing on theirs from the head.

There is a Singer 29k2 coming up on a sale in 2 days. I looked at it and as was expected it is well worn, But the seller says it sewed right up until he broke the last needle. Interesting things about it are, original cast iron treadle stand, original wood flat bed conversion table like seen it old singer books. Table is in very good condition for the age. I am hoping I can get some opinions as to what some of you might consider paying if you had a chance at one like this. If I were to buy it if it could not be made to sew decently I might part it out or sell head as is, ( for parts ) and table and stand separately. According to web site by serial number it was made in 1919 July to December, Clydebank Scotland.

Just a comment from my experience. When I was looking for my machine Leightons price was twice what it cost me to by and ship my machine from Toledo ( Cowboy 4500 ) and I got all the optional plates feet etc. included. So you might also better check Techsew and Toledo at top of page. Was talking to somebody recently that said they know Leighton and was told they are out of business.

Glad my suggestion helped, Sometimes simple is all it takes.

Thank you for your info. I just ( 15 minutes ago ) found that I can get rotary phase converters near here. I will go to them and see what they can supply. The good part is to deal face to face. The price we got on the phone is $ 515.00 for 3 hp. which sounds good. This is not a hurry up deal I am working at it as I have time.

Why not just make your own as I have done. Or if you do not have a lathe a friend can make strap end punches in a few minutes for you. The cheapest ones I found were $65.00 each it took me about an hour to make 3. And the $65.00 ones were likely no better than the tolls this person bought.

Get a proper draw gauge and a bit of practice, with my Osborne's I can run down 8 feet of hide with no problem. Wood warps with changing humidity and may not run true. Any wood one I have seen are a poor tool compared to a steel one, even the aluminum ones are nothing compared to a good steel one.

Just a guess but MAYBE you put the bobbin in the bobbin case the wrong way. the thread coming off the bobbin clockwise when it should be counter or visa versa. Turn it over and try again

Had a similar case with my CB 4500 just loosen the screw that holds the foot on and turn it so the needle goes down the middle of the hole so it does not cut the thread between the needle and the foot.

Thank you both for your advise. I will have to do some more research it sounds like an inverter might be the right thing for me. I have talked to 2 electricians and it neither offered any solution but a rotary phase converter at about $1800.00. I guess I might have to talk to one who does more work with 3 phase and high voltage. The book with the wiring diagram was supposed to be included in the deal but now she keeps telling( ITS HERE) but she can't find it. With the book it would be a lot easier to know how I can set it up. I have found what are called STATIC phase converters on the internet for as little as $69.00 that are for motors 3-5 hp. ( mine is 2 hp. ) but need to know for sure they are the right thing for this job.

I've never seen a jerk needle. So I use what works for me.

For doing repairs there are places you can NOT use a second needle, such as sewing inside a loop for a trace on harness and the lock stitch awl WILL go in from one side and let you replace stitches that let go by putting the thread through the loop it creates. So YES it has its place but it does not replace a good sewing machine.

Thank you Trox!!! What I have seem to be for vests, biker belt, likely some for saddle parts. Some I still have to identify. What I am wondering is would there be anyway that using the length of steel used to make the die as a way of estimating its value. For example if one has a meter of steel ( cutting edge ) in it would that mean it would be worth twice as much as one that has 1/2 a meter in it? I do think that the more bends to create the shape would make it worth a bit more.

Bob is right. I have taken one out of a OLD clothes dryer and used it on my Adler 20-2 for 30 years. It has just a bushing not a bearing but a few drops of motor oil once in a while has kept it going. The catch is it seems the dryer has to be OLD, OLD, OLD, to have them but the price is good. FREE.

SORRY my mistake I was thinking one thing and typed another.! It is 220 3 phase. I will have to have an electrician check out more of the wiring to see if it will need to be changed. The guy here today did not have time to check all the wiring as to what voltage it uses going to other parts. from the transformer that is shown in the book.

Well most of my questions were answered today. Though not the answers I wish they had been. I had a electrician friend take a look at this press, and it is 220 single phase. Neither of them could seem to understand why the plate on the outside did not show that it was 3 phase. So now I have to decide what my next move is to be. I am told phase converters are about $1800.00 which is more than I am prepared to put into it. Here is what I am considering try to sell as is, see if there is a way of changing the motor to 220 single phase without having to rewire the whole system. Or take my lose and learn from it. Maybe the dies that came with it can be sold to recover some of what I put into it.

Edited previous post to correct a mistake.

Did a search and can't find much info. on a Mercury M-280L machine. Does anyone have one? And what can it do? Seller says it is compound feed ( that's good ) and says it will sew up to 3/8 inch. Is this right? Is it a copy of a more commonly known machine Singer, Adler, etc. ?

Thanks Tom, I am hoping it turns out to be 220 single phase. I am not sure how to get the right setting on my multi meter for ohms. so I may not have had it set to the right setting. I have a few other things to check out like possible broken wires going to switches. Another thing that has me confused is that it does not matter if the red or the black button ( power switch I believe is pushed ) the readings are the same. It is when I turn a dial that the reading stop showing a continuity. This dial has a click on /off then you can turn it more like you would a variable speed or like turning heat up or down on a heater.

Thank Tom, Yes the pump likely does run continuously I can see the solenoid ( electro magnet ) that activates the valve. I understand most of electric wiring, (just not 3 phase ) I have done house wiring and have wired up 220 volt motors. What I am having trouble figuring out is this motor wired as 220 single phase or 3 phase. I talked to and electrician on Wednesday and he said that it could be 220 single phase or three phase by what I told him on where there is continuity ( between the black and blue wires ) and not any to the brown one. I will be taking the wiring diagram and pictures of the motor plate and connections in the motor to him and we hope to get it figured out. Even he was surprised that there was no reading between the brown and black or blue wires. That is when he said it might be single phase. There might also be something wrong in wiring or switches etc. Since it is still on the trailer I might take it in and have it looked at. But truth be told I would rather not spend a bunch of money on it if I won't be able to use it. As for the reading between wires it was right to the top the same as if I touched the ends of the leads together that come from the tester.

What is gained by going to all that work as compared to just resurfacing the old one on the sander until it gets down to the size of the steel ends?