catskin

Edited previous post to correct a mistake.

Did a search and can't find much info. on a Mercury M-280L machine. Does anyone have one? And what can it do? Seller says it is compound feed ( that's good ) and says it will sew up to 3/8 inch. Is this right? Is it a copy of a more commonly known machine Singer, Adler, etc. ?

Thanks Tom, I am hoping it turns out to be 220 single phase. I am not sure how to get the right setting on my multi meter for ohms. so I may not have had it set to the right setting. I have a few other things to check out like possible broken wires going to switches. Another thing that has me confused is that it does not matter if the red or the black button ( power switch I believe is pushed ) the readings are the same. It is when I turn a dial that the reading stop showing a continuity. This dial has a click on /off then you can turn it more like you would a variable speed or like turning heat up or down on a heater.

Thank Tom, Yes the pump likely does run continuously I can see the solenoid ( electro magnet ) that activates the valve. I understand most of electric wiring, (just not 3 phase ) I have done house wiring and have wired up 220 volt motors. What I am having trouble figuring out is this motor wired as 220 single phase or 3 phase. I talked to and electrician on Wednesday and he said that it could be 220 single phase or three phase by what I told him on where there is continuity ( between the black and blue wires ) and not any to the brown one. I will be taking the wiring diagram and pictures of the motor plate and connections in the motor to him and we hope to get it figured out. Even he was surprised that there was no reading between the brown and black or blue wires. That is when he said it might be single phase. There might also be something wrong in wiring or switches etc. Since it is still on the trailer I might take it in and have it looked at. But truth be told I would rather not spend a bunch of money on it if I won't be able to use it. As for the reading between wires it was right to the top the same as if I touched the ends of the leads together that come from the tester.

What is gained by going to all that work as compared to just resurfacing the old one on the sander until it gets down to the size of the steel ends?

I seem to have gotten myself into a less than good deal. I bought a clicker that I was told was in working condition BUT it seems it can't be fixed. Included in the deal were a bunch of dies some have never been used. How would a person figure out prices for them? Possibly by how many inches of cutting edge they have? I hope to recover some of my money by selling the dies. I am in Saskatchewan Canada. If anyone is interested near enough to come and see them they are welcome to come. When I get them sorted out I intend to post them for sale. I think there are chap and vest dies plus a lot as yet to be identified.

Here is what I found, Being rather busy today I did not get to opening the plate to see the motor to read the phase. But when I used the meter on the 3 wires between the black and blue it showed continuity. between black and brown none and between blue and brown none. So since the plate on the outside says connected V 220/ 60 Hz I do believe that it is most likely 220 single phase. And that likely the 2 wires ( black and blue ) that show continuity are likely the 2 that I will need to energize for it to run. The book that the PDF was made from showed 3 phase wiring. It is not the book that belongs to THIS press. Any other help will be greatly appreciated. I DO NOT want to hook it up wrong and burn up the circuit board.

I have not seem the name plate on the motor since it is mounted inside directly to the pump. As noted in the first post it looks like it is 220 single phase. There is no plug on it. And the wire colors are not what I usually see here in Canada. Here they would likely be black (live ) red (live ) white ( ground ) green ( grounded to frame ) this one on this machine is black with a yellow stripe. So the wire colors are likely European style. Would there be a way of testing with a multi meter with the switch on and off to tell witch wires are to be the live 2? I think I got a pdf attached that will show the wiring but how do I know by the letters what color the wires are? F36.pdf

I got this press home now and my problem is that the seller has not found the book. And I can't seem to get any responses from Bogle Greenwell or anywhere else about buying a book. If any of you have a book or books that pretain to the set up and use of this press I would gladly pay for you to copy and send them to me. Right now I have trouble figuring out which wires are to be live and which is the ground. there are 4 wires I found which is the ground to the frame It is black with a yellow stripe the others are black, blue and brown. How can I tell which 2 connect to the energized wires.

I just brought home my clicker press. It turns it is a Hudson F 36/ L now my problem is that the seller has not found me the book. I have tried to find one on the internet and did have a PDF of one sent. BUT it seems to me that scanning it somehow blurred quite a bit of it so much of it is not readable. Also either not all was sent or this book does not have the instructions for what and how to use the 2 knobs above the power switch. It has all the parts list and how to assemble it and a trouble shooting page. I would very gladly pay anyone who has a book to photo copy it and mail it to me including postage.

Some likely will think this is a stupid question, BUT has anyone tried to heat the end of a cheap tandy beveler then dunk it in water to harden it so it will keep a better edge. I have made clicker dies from soft pipe that the cutting edge bent when I used it a few times. So I redid the edge heated it to a dull red dunked it in water and it stays sharp and cuts good. I have very little steel tempering and heat treating experiance but this has worked for me quite a few times , shaping things then doing that on parts so they don't wear out as soon.

Art , I think your comparison might be even closer if it were Clutch= manual transmission and Servo = hydrostatic transmission. I wrote this before I read all 5 pages but still think some might understand what I mean.

Am I the only one who wonders where Bruce gets shipment after shipment of these (good ) old tools and nobody else can ever find any?

I am in Sask. I actually do not have them home yet I hope to get them here next week. Once I have them I will have to see what they are. And decide which if any I want to sell or trade.

I am not real sure what all they will be. I have not got them here yet. It looks like most likely chap decorative overlays and other as yet not identified. I would list more once I get them. I don't think there are holster dies since there are not many holster makers in Canada. I was more ( testing the water ) as to how the chances might be of selling or trading some for ones I could use.

Does any one know if there is a chance that used clicker dies would be saleable. I may be getting some included in a deal that I am likely not to have a use for.

The problem is that the person I am buying from never used it, knows nothing about it. She bought out a shop and it was part of the deal but she never used it. So I am mostly on my own. It will not be the first time I Stuck my neck out so to speak!!!!!

Tanks for all your responses. It looks like the deal is going to go ahead. I will just have to wait and see when I get it home. what it will take to get it going.

The one I got has the lever and it does a good job on long tapers. It was sold on there 2 day special here the end of November. It was sold under a different product number then the regular one with the lever. Mine was SHARP right out of the box. Maybe they made a special buy on them since the were limited to 12 per store and mine came sharp. I know what the sent thickness ones are like I have 4 of them in different makes and they work good for long same thickness splits.

Yes !!! Some of us just have not quite reached that level of sharp yet. I was lucky mine came out of the box sharp enough to cut for me.

Axeman Yes you are right. I looked on the plate on the outside of the body it reads as posted in my first post here. That makes me believe it is wired for 220v 1 phase. Is there such a thing as 220v 3 phase?

I was browsing the internet looking for other in formation yesterday and came across the cowboy 800 splitter and it looks exactly like the Tandy I can't help believing they come out of the same factory.

Thank you I will try phoning. I have found a VERY small amount of info on this machine. It seems to be a rare somewhat specialized machine.

I have a couple of pictures but not being very good with computers Have not been able to get them posted yet.

I have been to that site but nothing seems to work. Catalog comes up can't be found. Contact gets no response. Just wondered if they sold after Rea died?