catskin

Yes it is. I started with a winder from a 100 old year old sock knitter . Made a new top shaft with pully and the part that the other end of the bobbin runs in. I tried to post 2 pictures from different angles but got a message that I could not. Will try to post the others on separate posts.

The above post is the bobbin winder I made for my Pearson # 6. Had trouble getting it loaded and text didn't seem to get on. Sorry if I did something wrong mods.

I do agree that the Pearson was and likely still is one of the best machines made. BUT I stand by my comment comparing the 2 machines. BASED on what I have. I do not have any kind of groover. I do not have a rein rounder. I do not have pricker feet whatever they are. Nor do I have any other attachments if they exist. And like big S. is with Pearsons, I have never seen any of those things. I do wonder if it would be any easier to sew rounds with it then with a 441 WITHOUT the right attachment. So WITHOUT the attachments it is I believe limited to much less then with them. And likely very few would be able to find them. I have to wonder if the saddle makers that are replacing them with 441 and copies are doing it because they need the close tolerances that a worn out Pearson can no longer give them. And a new clone can. After all there is rarely more then 15 feet of sewing on a saddle. ( not counting breast collar etc. ) And can't find , or don't feel the cost of a total rebuild is justified. No rounding on saddles nor likely grooving. As for the Landis #1 I only repeated what the owners told me. The saddle maker had several feet for his and maybe other things but still had the opinion that Pearson might be better somehow. He did all his sewing on saddles with his genuine Juki 441. There again maybe 100 plus years of wear made it less then it was 99 years ago.

I wonder if some of those that don't have the various attachments ( I have nearly all of them )for the 441 type of machine don't realize that they are available. Like the saddle maker that was here last winter , he has a genuine Juki 441 ( had it for many years ) but only had the big feet was very surprised that these other feet feed dogs and plates were available. And intended to order them. So like the Pearson if you do not have the right attachments it limits what you can do. I do not know what attachments are for the Pearson or where it might be possible to get any of them. I got only the machine. I made an edge guide and bobbin winder. As my Pearson is ,doing any fine work would be difficult. My Cowboy does that easy. For example sewing 2 stitch lines on 1/2 " wide leather with 207 thread. I would be very happy if those of you that have Pearson attachments would post pictures. I might be able to make my own version of some. As others likely could too.

I guess I am a bit new to the Pearson. Having only had it a few weeks. But with the work I do I have yet to find anything that I would not be able to do on the Cowboy. We each have different things we do. And I have never seen any attachments for a Pearson only heard about them. I would like to see and or get any that there are. I am in no way putting down the Pearson it IS a good machine. If I didn't think it would be good I would not have bought it. . But as stated no machine will do it all , That's why I have 7. But the guys that were stating that a 441 were a poor machine and would NOT do what a Pearson can were wrong. They can do most of it. I speak from experience ( several years ) of using a 4500. I have seen and know several people that have Landis # 1 machines and they thought they were good. But all of then said that they thought a Pearson would be even better, They never told me why they thought that, only that one said that the Landis would only do traces. There is a Landis #1 sitting 2 miles from me that the people have offered me several times but would not put a price on it. Or likely would be owning it. So when I got a chance to get this one I jumped at it. To pinker, I have been trying to post pictures but have not been able yet. You may not have what I used for the drive. It is the winder that is used for winding yarn for 100+ year old sock knitting machines. It works much like the Pearson winder but uses a belt rather then gears.

Well at risk of ticking off some strong opinioned people. Here goes. I waited 60 years to own a Pearson #6 now I do. It is a wonderful machine. I believe it might be among the best original machines around, meaning it has NO welds on it, the needle plate is clearly original and one end is still like new, not beat out like the machines I see in harness shops. No built up rollers. BUT I also have owned a Cowboy 4500 for a few years and it will make a stitch as good as the Pearson, BUT you have to know how to use and set it . Unless I just got lucky there is no reason to claim that the 441 clones can not do good work.. Today I sewed 35 feet of stitching with the Pearson and I can tell you that my arm feels it. But it never missed a stitch. So I am looking at finishing putting a motor on it. I talked to a guy recently and he asked why, he always cranked his by hand. And I believe him, but I doubt many would be sewing 50 or more feet of stitch in a single session without needing a rest and their arm feeling it. To keep it going it seems to need to be turned at about 70 stitches a minute. When I get the motor on I hope to have it at about 60. Speed is not what I am looking for but a nice steady run. I think my opinion is shared by a fair number of serious users since I have read that people are buying Pearsons from saddle makers that are going to 441"s and copies ( clones ) I had to build a bobbin winder which I finished yesterday ,it is not hard to do. I hope to be able to post a picture soon.

I got a deluxe on the black Friday a couple years ago and it seems worth the price to me although I only use it to skive ends on straps since I have 4 other pull splitters. And recently got a American crank that looks like it has done very little. Based on the fact that the blade has barely been moved from new setting ( all of the slot is still behind the bolt that sets it ) and it splits to paper thin.

My solution for thread ( black for instance ) that doesn't do well on top is to use it on the bottom ( bobbin ) it has worked for me.

If you are making harness you WILL have to go over 3/8 thick. Cowboy 4500 will do what you need.

You didn't miss out on much. I have worked on the neighbors 31-15 and while its a good machine for cloth which I believe it is meant for ( sews through heavy denim ) it is near useless for leather it will not feed it because it is only bottom feed. If it does feed it by the time you go a few inches the bottom leather is stretched so when you get to the end the bottom is longer then the top.

I contacted Aron Martin and was told they rethread those places. So ordering from there will not help. They want you to buy THIER feet and edge guides that are rethreaded and the bolts to hold them on. I would prefer to keep this one original. So if anyone can tell me the thread and size I might be able to find them. I have whitworth. metric and unc thread gauges and non seem to fit. Whitworth are 55 degree with a round top whereas unc and metric are 60 degree with a flat top according to my hours of searching the internet. Have any of you rethreaded your machines? And what thread pitch did you use to not ruin the holes and have to redrill and thread a bigger size.

I am not thinking of using that kind of setup. Unless they already were out there. Was just curious if it had even been done before servos and all this more modern tech became available. And Bob I ran an old Massey combine many hours too. That was one of the things that made me wonder if it had been done on a small enough scale for a sewing machine. With the controlled pulley on the motor shaft and the spring loaded one on the machine or mounted on like speed reducers are now.

NO, the shaft is not extended it is that way for if or when you put the flywheel from the front to the side as some do. And for the shuttle area it is likely worn so as to break the shuttle as that one is. I have seen them that way. And it seems the opinion on this forum is that gears for the shuttle drive are no longer possible to get in good condition. Sorry to be giving negative opinions but from my experience and reading this site that seems to be the way it is.

I am wondering if any person or company ever put a variable speed on a sewing machine? Like the ones on machinery used to be,( now most are hydrostatic) where the driven pulley was spring loaded and the drive one had a means of pushing the outside flange in so the pulley narrowed and the belt rode farther out as the belt was pulled in on the driven pulley. Thus changing speed. That way you would have variable speed even with a constant motor speed.

I thought I would put this here since others might be looking for the same info. Could some of you pearson owners please tell me the size and thread the bolts are to hold an edge guide onto these machines. I took a bolt from the needle steady to try and it is the same size and thread. So I took it to 2 different places to try to get bolts, both sold me bolts they said were right but when I got home they do not go in. The thread is slightly different. Arron martin does not list those bolts separately and postage would likely be more than the bolts. So would like to buy closer.

Now I am going to throw out something that might help IF you could find one. I have an Adler 20-2 large flat bed machine. And looking at the link you added I believe it would do all you need to do. I have sewn from 2 ply denim to 7/8 inches of leather without changing feet or feed dog. with from 206 thread up to 346. In Canada they were used in the military for making everything from parachutes to harness. They have a wide range of feet both smooth and toothed. I have made harness on it as well as patching jeans and everything in between. This machine is for sale but distance will most likely make buying it not an option. Only selling it because I have now a cowboy 4500 and just bought a pearson # 6. I don't really need 8 machines for what I do.

Yes that is close to what I was thinking only mine will likely drive with a belt rather then gears. Unless I make it electric. Still thinking. Today I am getting it cleaned up. I think I got lucky there seems to be almost no wear noticeable on it. Might be a few more days before I get at making the winder.

Thank you for your responses about bobbin winders. I think you are all right. I have been thinking the same things. As for my plans for bobbin winder I have not yet got to actually making it but will share when I do get at it. At the moment I am thinking about using parts from a winder that is used for a hundred plus year old sock knitting machine. I have several . I actually have several ideas I am thinking of so depends which one I get at first. Maybe I can trade pictures of my bobbin winder design for close up pictures of your machine heads. I think there may be attachments for this one that I don't have but could make if I had pictures.

I just bought mine yesterday. And it has the all cast stand like the one you have complete with the flywheel and pedals. Only thing missing is the leather belt which I intend to make. Will be a few days before I have it up and running since it needs a good cleaning. It is also missing the bobbin winder. Anyone care to guess why it seems so many of these machines get sold without the bobbin winders. What would the seller keep them for if the sell the machine? I already have an idea how I intend to make a bobbin winder.

Have done some looking and can't find whether a 29k73 is long or short arm and would like to know about when that model was made. Also are any parts available either good used or after market. ( copies )

Thanks for your answers. A friend and I have found a 29-4 patcher that we wondered about. But now it seems the seller wants way to much. She had said we can make a deal and then set a minimum of $ 750.00 for a machine that likely won't work and has parts missing. So likely will pass on it unless she gets much more reasonable its a no go. Saw one sell a year ago for $100.00.

Hi S N , As for using WD40 it likely won't hurt but I recently found that what really worked for me to loosen up tiny rusted parts was john deere hytran low viscosity. Its a hydraulic oil and it seemed to get in and loosen up the latches on antique sock knitting machine needles so it would likely do a good job on other stuff that is not as delicate too.

Has anyone on here dealt with Horse n harness in Ohio they claim to have sold hundreds of 29-4 machines and claim to have almost all parts for them. For same day shipping. Was looking at the website and wondered. Since I might be interested in parts.

Yes I agree he is good to work with, I bought my cb4500 from him plus thread and parts. BUT I am deaf so phone is NOT an option for me. I just wondered if anyone else had ever gotten a reply on his contact us link. Have since been in touch and will try again to do business when I need to.