catskin

For what its worth on my American straight needle it says that the awl is to be slightly offset from the needle so check and see if this is the case with your machine too. The offset on mine is to be 1/64th inch.

Thanks Bob I was on the web site but didn't find them.

I have done all sorts of searches for a manual to print off the internet for an American straight needle machine. I have come up with several statements that they are available to print but not one said where to look. (what web site ) If anybody on here knows where to look I would be very happy if you would tell me where. Or where I could buy one. Someone said on a thread on here several years ago the pilgrim shoe gives them out free but when I went to the web site I could not find any way to contact them. Thanks in advance for any help I might get.

My guess is that you are missing one place in the threading either going the wrong direction through something or missing something that it needs to go over through or around since you seem to never have had it working consistantly well since you got it. The reason I am making this suggestion is I was threading one of my machines wrong for years and it was doing much the same thing. It would some times sew perfectly for miles and then do what yours is doing and then seemingly fix it self. I had no threading diagram. So check the threading as though you are threading it for the first time ever.

I found a brother DB2-B722-405 F40 machine for sale, and a friend is interested in it and asked my advise. I saw the machine and it appears to be needle feed walking foot with also bottom feed dog, all of which seem good. But I am wondering what they were built to do? Are they a machine with oil bath that needs to run FAST in order to oil properly? Would it be suitable for sewing upholstery leather and vinyl? What would the max thickness be for it? How thick thread could it use? Would the toothed bottom feed dog harm the leather and vinyl? Could the feed dog be replaced with a smooth one or removed and a slotted plate be put in its place? Thanks in advance for any insight you can give.

Thanks all for your input. I am NOT an electronics person 99% of this stuff goes right over my head, but now I sort of understand what you are all getting at.

I was thinking of ordering a servo motor from Toledo but after reading all of this thread I am wondering if it is possible to get a servo that works without all this pot and mod and ohm crap done. The cowboy 4500 I bought a couple years ago has a servo that with the nob turned to the slowest speed will go so slow you can almost have coffee between stiches, are these good ones no longer available? I notice the Bob,s have not said anything on this thread I wonder why if they sell these motors?

Thanks Wiz, sounds simple enough BUT everything seems pined to the shafts, the part that moves the hook is definitely pined to the shaft, the part at the end at the bottom right end has a pin AND a screw but I doubt the hole in the shaft is long to allow the part to be moved to change the hook timing. There is another topic on here about timing the hook on a machine but it has screws holding the parts to the shafts. I still would like to know if Schmetz or some other brand of needle would be shorter from eye to point as the needle that came with this machine is,, if so that would solve this problem for me.

I have a singer 78-3 machine, and have been told on here that the original needle system needles are no longer made and to use 135-16 or 135-17 needles. I have original singer needles for my patcher that are marked 135 but they are longer from the eye to the point then the needle that came with this machine so when I set the stitch length to the longer end of its adjustment the needle hits the bobbin case and gets pushed back until it lifts a bit then it pops back into line.( this is a needle feed walking foot machine ) I have also been told that singer no longer makes patcher needles but these were bought about 30 years ago ( I bought 100 ) and they are genuine singer with the singer numbers on them and no scarf on the side. So my question is are the newer 135 needles shorter from the eye to the point if they are then I could use the full stich length adjustment. If I adjust the needle bar high enough so that the needle does not hit the bobbin case at longer stitch length the hook comes at the eye not above it. Being a few thousandths shorter from eye to point would not affect the forming of the stitch I don't think.

I am now looking for a table for my industrial machine. Do not need motor or machine just a table that it would fit into it is flat bed needs opening about 7 X 19 inches. Fixer uppers considered. Prefer in Sask. or Manitoba. My ad for the motor got me one thanks to a member so thought it would be worth a try.

There is a Consew on Kijiji in Regina now for $700.00 It might be worth checking out what model it is.

You need a singer 78-3 I just bought one, and it fits the spec's Bob set out and will sew up to 5/16 maybe 3/8 in deer skin. It has smooth bottom plate, walking foot, and needle feed. It was only about 80 miles from you. And the price was right.

Recheck the threading. I know you did it to the book but I have known several cases where it all seemed right but somehow the thread slipped beside the tension discs even tough it looked like it was between them. So my suggestion is make sure that didn't happen. Hope this gets you going quick.

I am not sure of the speed but I have done a fair bit of fixing and would intend to slow it down (put on speed reducers) . If possible I might make a mount that would allow a multi step pulley on the motor so with just a bit of adjustment could have 4 or 5 speeds. I have slowed down other sewing machines. I am less concerned about getting the speed right then I am about if the motor was a poor make. More input soon would be welcome since we are leaving to go to the area where the motor is on Tuesday.

Did a search and came up with nothing found so am asking here. Has any of you had or used a Samsun clutch motor on your machines. A member on here offered me a motor which I intend to buy, but also found a Samsun that is supposed to be new never used for what sounds like a fair price so I might consider it too to put on another machine. Any comments as to good ,bad or whatever would be welcome.

If these are sold, I have one of those presses if some body is close enough, or can arrange pickup. I will be going to Alberta next week and could possibly meet someplace. I live in southeast Sask.

I think I got it fixed. Yesterday I was playing with it with the needle that came with it and it was sewing, while I was doing that I cleaned out a bit of dust and lint. Today without making any adjustments I put in a patcher needle and it does not hit anything and sews. I am thinking that there must have been some lint and or dirt stuck in some place that was hitting the needle and pushing it and I got it out without seeing where it had been.

Thanks Wiz. I did that and that is when the needle hits the bobbin case. Or maybe I should say the bobbin case hits the needle and wants to break it pushing it forward. In order for the needle to not hit the bobbin holder the hook comes at or below the eye. As Bob said they use a 135X16 needle in these machines so I am wondering how they make them work. Or does the 29k51 not use a 135 needle? The box they came in says 135.

Can someone please tell me what changes need to be made to make the 135X16 needles work. I have lots of needles that it says on the box that they are 135 but they are longer from the eye to the point so when I set the needle bar up so the hook comes into the scarf just above the eye the point hits the bobbin case. They are genuine Singer needles for my 29K51 patcher. Are there 135 needles that are shorter from eye to point?

I would like to buy a motor to put on a machine I bought yesterday. I have 3 other machines with both servos and clutch motors. To keep my cost down I think a used clutch motor would do me well. This machine will get only occasional use maybe only a couple hours a year. I have thought about a new servo but shipping to Sask. Canada pushes the total cost higher then I feel I can justify. Will be in Alberta next week and could possibly pick one up there or even in Manitoba since I am near the east side of Sask. Of course one in Sask. would be ideal. If you have something you think would work, or know of a person or place one might be available I would like to hear from you.

Thanks for your replies and links. Hi Bob, My 4500 is doing fine. I was wondering if it would make sense to move the needle bar up and use needles that I have for my 29 K 51, If I read the box right they are a 135 needle. Also what would you consider the max. as far as thread and needle size to use in this machine? Are other feet available such as double toe or blanket ( with teeth on the bottom ) Am I right that these machines have a huge advantage over the 31-15 being they have the needle feed? I helped my neighbor get a 31-15 running, it sews fine on cloth but has trouble feeding even 2 ply of deer skin where this one seems to feed 6 ply without a problem. I would be very happy to hear from all who have or have used one of these machines, what you have done.

I am posting this because I tried search with several different wordings and found nothing about this machine. If it on here I could not find it. Bought a singer 78-3 today at an auction. Took me all of 5 minutes to get it sewing and it never missed a stitch. I just turned it by hand since the motor on it was just a tiny little household type motor. I intend to fix that soon. Now what I would like some help with is what is the right needle for it? Where might I get a bobbin winder and at what cost. Does anyone else use one of these? It seems to go through 6 plies of deer skin (about 1/4 inch ) easily and with needle feed seems to be suited to leather sewing.

The short answer is NO I have one of each of the ones shown and they haven't worked for me yet. You are much better of looking for something you can see work. I do not believe these are what they claim they are.

From my understanding near identical.

Quite likely distance to be shipped.