ramrod

well, the title says it all.................. i have some questions about the machine i acquired. it's a singer 211g155. it was given to me this past week and i haven't set it up yet. it was apparently used in an awning shop. i'm wondering what the maximum thickness of leather can be sewn on it? and how about the needle and thread size recommendations for leather? is this a compound feed that was mentioned earlier? is it generally a good machine? i also have a singer 591 that was used in a local clothing factory. it seems to be a real beast and is able to punch through anything, but i've never gotten it to run perfectly.....skipped stitches and all. i got a new motor so it can run on household current (replacing the 3 phase motor that came with it). can you tell me anything about this one? thank you for any info.

DOH! you're right. i'll get it posted elsewhere.

annette - if you're willing to sell one of two of those antlers, i'd like to buy them. please let me know. PM me or post here. thank you

this is really a great read, wiz. very well done. i have questions about the machine i acquired. it's a singer 211g155. it was given to me this past week and i haven't set it up yet. it was apparently used in an awning shop. i'm wondering what the maximum thickness of leather can be sewn on it? and how about the needle and thread size recommendations for leather? is this a compound feed that was mentioned earlier? is it generally a good machine? i also have a singer 591 that was used in a local clothing factory. it seems to be a real beast and seems to punch through anything, but i've never gotten it to run perfectly.....skipped stitches and all. can you tell me anything about this one?

cool. how do we do this?

i have used foam padding to pad a collar (on my motorcycle jacket) in the past. i simply used a low density foam that would be used in upholstery work. edit.....i guess i didn't really explain how i did it. in my case, i sewed up the top of the collar about half way. i used a coat hanger with a loop on the end of it. i put the foam in the loop (about 12" x 1" x 3/4" foam strip) and pulled it into the open seam of the collar from one end until it was fully inside of the collar. then i sewed up the opening.

you are welcome.

if the thread is pulling the leather apart at the thinner portions, make sure that your awl is oriented correctly. i'm assuming that the awl is a diamond. if so, the "points" of the diamond at the largest part of the awl should be oriented at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock. they shouldn't be pointed at each other (as in a santa fe design - sorry - the only illustration i could think of). this will weaken the leather at the hole. as for 10 oz......i've never worked with leather that thick. but what you could do is poke the awl through until you feel the point starting to come through, then work from the opposite side to connect them. this is the only thing i can come up with. it will take a bit more time to stitch.

i can't help with stripping off any super sheen, tom. as a matter of fact, i had the same thing happen to me - it peeled off of the belt. so, now i'm using atom wax and buffing it to a nice sheen. you might want to consider using that instead. i like the finish a bit better.

i used to use those needles, but i've snapped so many of them at the eye that i won't buy them anymore. i use the size 0 needles. they have a much smaller hole but the needle is very tough. here's how i thread this needle. i use tandy's machine poly thread to sew. i'll take the end of the thread that i want to put through the needle and melt it slightly it with a lighter. as it melts, i pull it with my finger to make a long, thin thread that will now thread through almost any small hole. after threading, i cut the melted part.

i'm not exactly sure why the stitches aren't consistent on the piece you are describing. i don't think it has anything to do with different thicknesses of material but, i would not punch smaller (closer together) holes on the thinner portions. this will really show up and not look that good. this is what i've done to make sure that the stitches are consistent from one side to another. it's kind of cheating, but my stitching looks very good. i use an overstitch wheel on both sides of a project. i'm very careful to make sure that they line up with each other. then as i stab with my awl, it's easier to see where the awl is supposed to come out on the other side. as you stab, you can feel with your fingertip where it's coming out. then you can readjust the awl if you need to. what i would do also......after your stitching is done, you might want to run the overstitch wheel over your stitching to make it look a little bit more consistent. i gotta tell you - in those pictures on your link your burnishing looks real nice. once you edge it with black, it will be perfect.

i realize this is an old thread, but as i read this it sounds like "spectra" thread that i'm familiar with. extremely strong with no stretch at all. nfortunately, it doesn['t seem to hold a knot, either. i'm not sure how to terminate it when backstitching. maybe a dot of superglue on the underside of the project. i've been wanting to use it for stitching, too, but i think it will cut into the leather as someone else mentioned.

First of all, i have to say that this is probably one of the best forums i've ever seen (or been a part of). the content is first rate and always interesting. as an aside, i'm a member of the crownvic.net forum. they have very strict rules about the posting of pictures - as regards sizing. i've noticed on numerous threads (on this forum0 that the picture size is so large that i can't tell what i'm supposed to be looking at. most times, i'll just close the topic and move on because i can't see what i'm supposed to see. is there a way to let all members know that they MUST resize all pictures to a certain size before posting. it really would add to the overall benefit for everyone posting and lurking. can we do this? thank you, tim Name: tim ramsey (ramrod) UserName: ramrod IP Address: 74.67.231.111 Email Address: tkramsey@gmail.com

busted.....this is interesting. but i'm a little slow and in need of a picture for this one. i don't understand what exactly the reworked tool looks like. do you have a pic?

i don't know if this will help dan, but i needed some grommets that could be used on doubled 6 oz. leather. i called a local party tent supplier and she said that she had grommets that had a "neck" of about 1/2". i nevr got around to getting them from her, but they must be out there. do you have a tent rental company near you? it might be worth a google, too.

holy crap! she's hard to keep up with, but she shows some really cool designs!!

rob - as far as a pattern is concerned, i used my own (store bought from H-D) chaps as a pattern. do you know a friend that will loan you his pair for an hour?once you have the pattern cut, you can adjust the sizes for different customers accordingly. basically all that will change is the length and the circumference of the leg. the part i needed the most was the upper area of the pattern - the belt and the ties in the back. to get some ideas, i'd simply google motorcycle chaps and see what different manufacturers offer as regards styling. go to the H-d website and see what they offer. i've noticed some really cool trims and accessories on some of the cowboy chaps on this forum that i could use on a motorcycle chap. i've also gotten some ideas as far as inlay (snake skin) from some of the knife sheath makers that i've seen. imitation is the best form of flattery.

bicarbonate is simply baking soda. it's used for reducing the acid level in the leather after you apply the vinegaroon. this is a great thread....but i have a question.....and i don't mean to hijack this thread. say someone were to make a belt and make it two colors....maybe red for the body and outline the stitching area in black, could you simply dye the piece red and apply the vinegaroon to the perimeter? in other words, how does the vinegaroon affect already applied dye? or would you apply the vinegaroon to the perimeter and then dye the interior with the other color? i don't have any made to try this out.

LOL!! i've gotten this look by accident on a botched oil finish. don't wanna do that again.

thanks much, guys. i appreciate the nice words. rdb....i'll put up some pics of some of my stuff when i'm brave enough. LOL dave....utica! cool! i used to deliver over there for my last employee. i go to robin's on salina street, too. 15 minutes away for me. what is D&L? never heaard of them.

i want the maul. do you still have it?

i realize that this is a very old thread, but i was wondering if any of these titles are still available.

it looks awesome, banjoman! nice job. the only thing you might want to think about is to use a larger circumference holder for the badge holder. your stitches are a tad too close to the edge - although there isn't much stress on a badge holder. very nice work altogether. leatherbum.....i'm like you. i've been stitching with polyester machine thread for a while. it's relatively slippery without wax. (i've bought tandy waxed thread and it was waaay too waxy - clogged up everything.) i bought their 3200 yard spool of machine thread thinking it would work for the machine that i have. nope. too big. so, instead of returning it, i'm using it to stitch with. i like the diameter also.

Hello all. My name is Tim. I live in Syracuse. I've been lurking for a few days and was totally amazed at the information and skill level that is exhibited on this forum. I've learned a lot about technique, design ideas as well as supplier information. It was love at first sight, so I couldn't help but to register and gt involved. For about 10 years now I've been an enthusiast, but I've wanted to greatly improve my skill level. This forum affords that opportunity. I'm really excited about asking questions and posting.

nice job. i love the look of that belt. i did something similar (lacing wise) to a belt that i made a while back. i used a (very sharp) carpenter's chisel and made a channel on the backside of the belt to recess the lacing. then, i lined the belt to cover up the lacing. you'd never know it was there. it made for a very clean look.