ramrod

i use the tandy poly machine thread size 277 for all of my hand stitching. it's unwaxed. but i'm really pleased with it. i usually impale the thread twice when locking it to the needle. it's a bit stiff to use at first, but it will limp out and it works fine. i've never tried to taper the ends on this thread. i'd really like to try some flax linen and wax it myself, but i haven't gotten around to buying any. i get the feeling that i'd really like using it. as a side note, i ran across a ton of this synthetic stuff called vectran. extremely tough to cut and without any stretch at all. it's kind of like sinew because it's flat and not wound or spun. i've tried it on a small repair and was pleased with it. it seems to hold dye quite readily.

i've also used plastic milk jugs when i need a template for a small piece. they're easy to cut and easy to clean. you could also use cat litter jugs - not the large square ones with the (approx) 12" x 12" lids. i'm talking about the ones with the screw tops. the plastic is a bit thicker than the milk jugs, and there's a lot more area so you can make a larger template piece. a bit off topic but a useful tip - when i need to rough out a piece on paper first, i usually need a lot more than an 8 1/ 2 x 11 sheet of paper. often times i'd like a full scale drawing - and i'm sure i speak for most of us in that regard. i used to work for a contractor, so i'd bring home rolls of old blueprints. some sheets are 24" x 36 all the way up to (memory going........) 48 x 96?? anyway, you can probably get all you want from a construction contractor ( GC, roofing contractor, plumber, electrician, etc) or architectural firm. if any of them want cash for their old blueprints - walk away. you can score them for free.

i've used my batch even though all of the steel wool didn't dissolve. i'm just going to add more vinegar. all of my leather pieces have turned a beautiful black - awesome looking when it's wet. a real nice matte finish. anyway, when it is all neutralized and fully dried, the piece turns more of a titanium gray than black. i've actually touched it up with some eco flo just to help it along. i'll continue using it, but i'm not 100% satisfied with the results. i've not had any transfer to any skin or clothing. i can't see how it transfer being a chemical reaction to the leather and all.

i just stumbled on this thread. i'm sure i'm waaay too late on this one, but here goes. have you tried buffalo brothers cowboy store? they have more conchos than i've ever seen in one place. looks like real nice stuff, too.

i always curve the belt blank when i glue the liner to it. it's like prestressing it. it makes a much better finished product..

LOL.... the music is a bit naff - us yanks might have preferred you to talk - especially if it's a gritty cockney accent. LOL

that's a nice looking belt. i really like the width of the keeper, too. +1 what rayban said. i used to try to do long sections of stitching in one go.....no more. the thread will fray and look nasty after a while. that is a bit reduced with the polyester that i use. though.

once i've set the rivet, snipped off the post and domed the remainder, i was able to use a small tack hammer to sort of "massage" the stub. in an al stohlman book, i seem to remember him making it square by tapping it with a hammer. this can be done quite easily as i found out. i guess what i'm saying is: the domer doesn't have to be perfect because you can touch up the post with a small hammer.

you might be able to drill the end of some round stock and then use a dremel with the ball sander to round it out.

those cool conchos again. lol. i've got a few mexican coins that i'm going to make into conchos. those look sweet because they're brass. nice looking wallets. i'd like to make a wallet of that style for myself. but i really like the folding type that fits in the rear pocket of my jeans. just can't break that old habit.

my real question for you guys using an airbrush is this (seeing as how i'm looking to buy one): do you use your airbrush as a "spray gun" to dye entire projects? what is the largest project you would want to use this for (if you were dyeing the entire project one color)? i really love the fade between colors that you can achieve with an airbrush as well as the consistency amd smoothness. i currently use a preval unit on most of my stuff, but i don't want to buy canned air indefinitely, either. i was hoping that an airbrush could be used instead.

could it be tattooed on the leather?

ummmmmm. is that the maul i'm trying to buy from you? PM'd you about it.

i saw a sign the other day that i loved. it said something like this: all unattended children receive a free cup of espresso and a FREE PUPPY!!

wow! nice design, beautiful tooling. you knocked it out of the park. this is a sweet holster.

interesting. this ends up with the needle piercing the thread twice. i do that anyways, but in a different way. this taught me something new.

there's some great reading here - and an outstanding video. that worker puts me to shame. i used to strive for that kind of consistency when i started doing this, but i've gotten lazy - prepunching holes, putting down my awl and needle. wow! this guy was amazing. weldwood here, too. i just bought a can yesterday. 9 bucks and it lasts forever.

i had to respond to this - especially to bree's comments, despite the fact that this thread is pretty old. it has to do with waterproofing a toolbag. i've noticed that most (if not all) tool bags have the straps going through holes in the top cover (like the one that ian has pictured - beautiful by the way). this is automatically a place for rain to enter. and based on the size of the punch used, a LOT of water will enter there. this can rot it out or possibly delaminate the lining from the outer leather. what i've done to mine is this: (and i really apologize for not having pictures of this, so i'll try to describe it as best i can) i attach the 2 straps to the face of the bag where the top lip is. i punch 2 holes for the straps in the lid and as the lid is pulled down, you can thread the straps through the punched holes and secure it with a buckle or snaps on the bottom of the bag. another wat to do it is to have "d" rings on the leading edge of the lid and have some straps secured to the bottom of the bag. close the lid, run the straps through the rings and snap it closed with snaps (or buckle, or velcro) to the bottom of the bag. this way, there is no opening in the lid for rain to get in.

these are absolutely beautiful!! everyone is talking about the frogs, but i like the industrial look of the gears and the art deco look it has. i've been trying to come up with an idea as to how to incorporate this type of thing in a belt. gears are a bit difficult to carve, and i can't find a gear stamp. you do some awesome work. i've got to ask - where did you get those conchos and what are they exactly?

i think he means the welt.

oops! i didn't see the message annette. i'll pm you with an offer. sorry for the delay on this.

i know this thread is very old, but i'm interested in the linen thread. still got it?

o.k., once again - thank you to both of you guys. you've been so helpful. so, my 155 has no reverse. i liked that on the 591 when i messed around with it. you gave me a lot of information. i figured sewmun would chime in also. i'll read over that info about thread and needle sizes.

o.k., got it. thanks to both of you guys. i really appreciate the info. wiz - the 591 i got could do 3400 SPM according to the seller (who used it in the factory!). it's been reduced to 1700 with the new motor - but still extremely fast. the 591 has gone through 2 layers of 4 oz plus a zipper. it does have an oil pan. maybe i'll sell the 591 and keep the 211. wiz - i'm confused. what is a walking foot needle system: 135x16 or 135x17? does this refer to needle size? if not, is there any info that tells me what size needle to use with a certain thread size? also - what does the "155" designate (as in 211g155) in the model number?