Go2Tex

Ah yes, the ol' mystery marks.... been there done that. Usually a problem with the import leather but it can happen on the good stuff, though not usually as bad. The tanneries have a nasty habbit of hiding blemishes that are hard to see until you wet them down. The line down the center looks like a rawhide spot, where the hide is folded in the vat and doesn't get tanned completely. Those you can usually spot though beforehand. Yeah, frustrating, huh?

Yes, ditto all the above. Very nice work. I really like the finish. Think I might have to try some of that Ecoflo stuff. Is it fairly water proof once dry or does it need to be sealed with something?

As a matter of fact, I got out the shop vac just before doing the final pics of this saddle. The pics that show the a bit of the shop don't show the mess that is normally piled pretty high when I'm in the middle of a saddle. I try to keep the floor swept up after I carve out a seat because there is a lot of scraps and shavings on the floor. I like to be able to glance around the floor when I come in and spot any kritters like scorpions and the like so I can get out the bug killer. But, seriously, a clean work space makes for a clean project. I try to clean as I go. Thanks Luke, I gave it a good coat of Tan Kote. And thanks to all for the very kind words and compliments. I put this one on "FeeBay" so, we'll see how the not-so bipartisan Democrat Spendulous Package is working so far.

Just to show ya'll that I have actually been doing something besides playing on the Leatherworker forum............. Got all the goodies on this one. Bork hardware, W&C chestnut leather, Weber 4" brass bell stirrups, Weaver shearling wool, built on a Ben Swanke tree, my first from him and I really enjoyed it. What a nice tree! I think I'm hooked. I included some contruction pics to show how I layed this cantle back and the sharper break, though not perfect, the importance of the groundwork became crystal clear on this one.

Excellent work. What did you use for your cantle binding? It matches your seat inlay, so I assume it's not just dyed.

Very nice work. Classic lines. Gotta love that one.

I tried it once. Took me all weekend and it wasn't as good as I could buy. Soooo......

Now that's what I call the ultimate man cave. Very very cool idea for your layout table, on wheels with a fold down side. Thanks for sharing.

You can always tone down that gloss with either a light wipe of deglazer, or try some antique rubbed in. It really gives it a nice soft glow.

So, after many attempts I finally figured out what was going wrong. I wasn't giving the resist time to cure before attempting the dye. It must be allowed to cure over night and at least 2 coats works best. DUH. Well, I guess I knew that already, but I was in a dang hurry. But, at least it works fairly consistently and predictably enough to try a larger project to test the results. Now, the pic here is a pair of spur straps. I used my concoction of medium brown, green and black to make the dark brown and after completely, emphasis on "completely", over a couple of coats of Resolene. The dye is applied quickly and then the excess on the resist is imediately lightly wiped off being careful not to rub with a paper towel. Once the dye is completely dry, (also an important factor), use deglazer to remove some more dyed resist from the highlighted area. Apply a third coat of resist, since the deglazer might have removed it, and when dry, apply dark brown antique, rub in with wool pad and wipe off excess. Clean up with moist paper towel or sponge. Viola'!

Very nice work. What process did you use for your color and finish?

I'm going to go way out on a limb and suggest that you try soaking them in warm water, let them air dry and repeat until some of the oil leaches out of the bags. I don't know if it will work and I don't know if it will ruin the bags. But, unless someone else has a better idea that does work for sure, it seems like a good idea. The problem is, the damage has probably already been done.

Nice website, by the way. Your prices seem a bit low for the amount of work you must be putting into your work. But, this may not be the time to increase prices, when the only retailer in the country making money is Walmart. But, I don't know anything about your market.

I prefer to cut afterwards. Had the same problems with the plug method as others mentioned. I use an awl to find my center and end points as determined by my strainer. I want to make my hole as large as possible given the restrictions of the stirrup leather slots. I then strike a nice arc with my compass on top and then cut it with a very sharp trim knife. I cut to a sharp corner on each end of the arc and then use an awl from underside to make a line of holes for the gullet line. I then connect the holes with a smooth arc on top and cut. I like a sharp corner so that my strainer cover and fork cover can intersect right at the corner.

Hey, number 10 or number 50, I think you did a fine job. Nothing jumps out as flat out wrong. I like your skirts, (kinda like my own, heheh). If you want more critique, you need to post a few more pics. Maybe someone can find something, but I doubt it.

Thanks to all for the help with this. I had looked around TCAA website before, but must have missed this one. Probably an old link. Anyhow, I didn't know who had made it until now. So, yeah, that would be a great idea to just ask him. Darc, you are right about the photo, as is true with most photos, it's hard to judge the real thing by looking at a pic. I think I have a handle on the process now though, and will see what I can come up with. I'm not really trying to reproduce it exactly, but just get a bit more contrast on my highlights using the right combination of dye to resist. I found an old thread on the forum that mentioned latex liquid masking stuff. Maybe...... So, here's a question.... would airbrushing acrylic paint or stain hold up to normal use on a saddle? I've never tried the stuff, so don't know.

Looks like you did the best it could be done. The fork would need to be shaped with a bit of a lip over the gullet or at least be brought out far enough to accomodate the rigging strap comfortably. It looks like it works, though. I'm liking it.

So, here is my best result so far. 3 applications of Resolene, the last coat was carefully painted on the areas I wanted the lightest color. Then, dried it for several hours. Then dyed with a concoction of Fiebings medium dye, (alcohol base), black and some green. That gave me the dark brown I needed since I didn't have any on hand. A quick wipe with a paper towel to remove most of the dye from the resisted areas, but not enough to rub off the resist and make it streak. Ok, once dry, I hit the highlights with some deglazer to try and lighten it up a bit and smooth out the finish, since it had gotten blotchy in spots. I let it sit overnight. This morning I rubbed in some dark brown antique paste to give it a mellow finish, buffed it up with a wool pad and, Viola'! ...... still not exactly what I wanted but getting there.

I've seen the Hi-lite product, but don't recall Glo-getter. Is this a Tandy product or Fiebings, or what? So far I still have not found the perfect mix here. I need a very strong resist that will resist a dark, color fast dye. Sometimes Resolene works, sometimes not. I tried using deglazer to remove the colored resolene and that seemed to be the answer, but then I messed up one sample project this way and ended up with solid dark color, no highlights. I think as I rubbed off the resolene with the deglazer on a rag, the dye was transfered. I didn't wait long enough for the dye to dry. Anyhow, this can't be a complex process if I'm going to apply it to a large project like a saddle. It must be simple, quick and consistent and uniform.

This topic has been discussed at length on a few other threads, but simply stated: 1. oil and let dry 2. apply resist and let dry 3. apply antique paste, let sit a few minutes, wipe off excess 4. use clean wool pad to smooth and clean up the highlights 5. apply final finish, TanKote, usually. Some use Neatlac. By the way, Tankote will remove the antique from the smooth areas if it has dried on. Water works just as well, I've noticed. I usually take a wet sponge and wipe the antique off the highlights and then use a paper towel to dry it.

Well, looks like you're gonna have to go down to your local Chi-com electronics store and pick up some of that technology. heheh

Me thinks you must have upgraded to the Artisan power splitter?

Ah well heck, Bruce. If you don't get a back ache for 3 days after stitching a cantle, kinda takes the fun out of it, don't it?

Oh yeah. I made a great little lifter out of a craftool, I have no idea what number it is or what it was supposed to be used for. It was shaped like a small triangle. I just ground one side at a nice steep angle, buffed it up and it's great.

How does he do the liner? It almost looks painted on.