Steve

I've had mine for several years, it was money very well spent. Like Bruce said, the cantle binding attachment is a back saver. I also have the laser, it's handy enough, but I'm not sure I would replace it if it went out. Steve

Trina Weber - http://weberstirrups.com/

I have a 6" Dixon I will sell. Steve

McMillen tools has them, at least a couple years ago they did. 864 Four Waters Dr. Sunrise Beach, MO 65079 Ph- (573) 374-7880 Steve

Keith, if you don't mind me asking, where are you getting your shearlings? I've been less than satisfied with what I've been getting. Thanks; Steve

I just cut the blade end off & weld on the other end of the handle. I tig welded mine, but if you don't have a tig welder I figure solder would probably hold up fine.

Chris Cheney (Harwood Hardware) 1716 N 3000 W Rexburg, ID 83440 (208) 359-5860

Yes, seems to be reliable, I've been doing it that way for several years with no problems.

60% of the inseam is what I use Steve

You can try oldcowpoke.com, he had several 16's last spring

Thank You Denise and Rod Steve

Yes sir, that sure answers my question. Thanks a bunch, stamping bindings isn't my favorite job. On the bench should make it quite a bit better. Thanks again Steve

If you are going to stamp a binding on the bench, do you fit it up and establish the borders, then let it pretty much completly dry before taking it off? How do you handle the stretch, tape, glue it to plexiglass or just deal with. Thanks in advance Steve

Who's Latigo are you using for strings & tie straps? Steve

What would you charge to replace the seat leather (hard seat), cantle back and binding? I was thinking $400-500, I ask another guy, and he said I was to low. I would appreciate some others opinions, I do very little repair work and really don’t know what a fair price would be. Thanks Steve

Try doing a search for Civil War Sutlers - http://www.jarnaginco.com/ is one that has quite a bit of stuff. A lot of the japanned finished buckles you buy are just painted black, or thats how they were a few years ago. If your wanting japenned finished buckles, buy steel buckles, heat them to a dull red and drop them in a bucket of old used motor oil. This seems to blacken them up enough to satisfy most of the reeactors. Steve

Jason and Dave Thanks for the feedback on the splitter Bruce, I bit the bullet and ordered a splitter from Artisan last week. I should get it in a few weeks. I'll let you know how it works when it gets here. Steve

Anybody used one of these Artisan 20" splitter? I'm interested in a big splitter and would sure like to hear the opinion of anybody thats used one of these. Thanks Steve

I had the same problem the other day, plugs peeled right off. I put another coat of glue on and they stuck like they should. I have no idea why they didn't stick the first time.

Greg, Thanks for the reply, I've just been building saddles a few years , so I don't have that much experience to draw from. Dyeing skirting was kind of what I thought would be best to do. When you pinked or scalloped the back edge of the binding did you put esctcheon pins in the scallops and glue them down? Thanks again Steve

Has anybody used latigo for a cantle binding? I’ve got a guy wanting a scalloped latigo cantle binding. It might be common practice somewhere, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen latigo used. It doesn’t seem like a real good idea to me, but I could sure be wrong on that. Thanks Steve

I got a new price list the other day from Bob. The blades are $25 and the handles are $65. He makes a regular and a slim blade. The Douglas's are very good people to deal with

I need Rick's current phone #, If anybody has it would you please email it to me email address is - smjfarm at embarqmail dot com Thanks Steve

Wondering what others use as your reference point for riggings, middle of the fork, low point of the front pad or what? I got the DVD from Dale Harwood when it came out, haven’t got to watch it but once. but I think he said he uses 1.5†back from the center of the fork for each position instead of 1â€Â. That was the first time I’d heard that measurement used A couple of years ago I ask the guy that taught me to build saddles the same question, his reply was “ well I guess I’ve built so many I just put them where they look right†and I assume that’s what he did, because I sure never saw him measure or mark anything before he put the near side on. I always used the center of the fork, but I believe in one of Bruce's post he said that originally the front and rear pads were used as reference points. For some reason that make more sense to me. I've checked the last 2 trees I used. One was a Bowden the other a Rick Reed, both Wades. There was about 3/4" difference between the center of the fork and the low point of the front pad on Ricks tree, not hardly as much on the other. Of course I might not be getting a real accurate measurement on RR tree, he tappers the fork into the bars really smooth.