wolfe9

My pleasure , its a real shame that there are so many scams on the net , Im sure you will be able to do the same for someone .

That has been an ongoing problem , but as far as I know no one has had a problem going to the site anyway , I talked to them about it and they said they have run several checks and found nothing . Thats about the best answer I can give you. It might not hurt to give them a call and maybe they will try something new to fix the problem .The ext. for IT is listed on their phone menu .

They are a reputable company and many people order from them regularly .

It is hydraulic but United shoe machine company called them hytronic model a,b ect maybe because it was electric & hydraulic , at least that is my best guess with limited research .

A guy has one for sale , he is asking $1000 , I couldn't find any information on line for the model A . Does anyone have any idea what one is worth , he says its in good condition . I know they went out of business around 1972 and parts are like hens teeth , I have seen others sell for about the same price but that doesn't always mean they are worth it .

Biggun has you going in the right direction , let me see if I can brake it down a little for you When he is talking about a "jack motor " what he is doing is using a 3ph motor to generate 3ph power , so you need to acquire a 3ph motor slightly larger than the motor on the machine that you need to run . ( I will try to find a how to link for you ) Option #2 would be a "static " phase converter that is made up of capacitors to generate the thir leg , many people say not to use a static converter but I have used them for years with no problems Quick note EVERY option (except changing the motor )has some trade off , most conversion options result is less available power at the machine motor but I have never had any problems related to low power , I think it will only be a problem if you are running a machine at maximum capacity . I think that with this type of a machine it will be a non issue , it can be more of an issue on a mill or saw . more on trade offs later . Option #3 buy a rotary phase converter , pretty much same as option #1 but factory built and designed to be a phase converter ( works good but not cheap ) Option #4 Variable Frequency Drive , these have come down in price over the last several years and have the advantage of giving you the ability to change the speed of the motor you are driving but like everything that can have its downfalls too , VFD's are also small and pretty easy to install. Dont stress over the belt guard or safety linkage those should be pretty easy . I will try to find some links and get them posted later . Hope this was of some help

I dont know anything about this and have no connection to the person selling it . I thought it looked like a nice collectors piece if anyone was interested and that is why I posted it here . It is a military saddlers box I would guess WWI ? http://baltimore.craigslist.org/atq/4007880011.html

I know he was not feeling so good , I hope everything is ok

WOW you really haven't spent time on many forums have you , on MOST sites if you asked a question that had been asked over and over you would get BLASTED . Most everyone here is pretty laid back and MORE THAN willing to help ANYONE . I know its now uncommon sense but why didn't you take a few seconds and a tiny bit of effort to do a search ? How is it condescending to tell you that a search would help you find the information you are looking for ? Maybe you didn't know you could search ? In which case that was the best advice you ever get . Maybe its just me but if I am looking for information that I know is so very basic for most of the people here I take a few min and try to search on my own first , it doesn't always work , sometime its hard to find the right key words but I try first . There are many many very impressive people here , I may not live long enough to reach their level but I am always amazed how they are so willing to share information , tricks ect with someone that could some day be competing in the same market . I have NEVER seen anyone get flamed here like on other sites . My suggestion would be for you to take some time and look around the forum , THEN take a step back and #1 check the attitude #2 give the people here the respect they deserve #3 learn to appreciate the fact that they are so willing to help you ( as long as you are willing to do your part in helping yourself ) #4 realize that they are busy and are taking time out of their day to help YOU Im sure if you do those thing that everyone would be willing to welcome you back with open arms . Take it for what its worth . If this hurts your feelings have a nice day & good luck finding a more helpful site. Wolfe9

How it is powered isn't the important part , Many of the old harness stitchers where pedal power and the amish still use pedal power on all of their machines . You might have gotten a better response if you had posted in the machine section , I think many of the dealers concentrate on that section when they are busy . Good luck

No problem , sometimes whats in my head doesn't make it to the screen ....LOL

Kind of what I said or what I thought I said .....LOL

I could be wrong but it seems like Safariland started the level 1 2 3 ect thing to describe their product line and it just caught on , I have never seen a set standard and different people / companies call different things level one , for awhile just a thumb break was level 1 then with newer models it changed to mean friction ( adjustable tension screw ) . I think you are looking for an internal locking device , correct ? I dont know of any of the companies that sell them and if you make one be careful about patents

Another option is to have someone that reloads put a bullet in a case without powder or a primer I can see the argument about not using live ammo but I have never seen a round go off in an environment that humans can survive in , not to say it cant happen . some day that is what I will do just to be 100% safe but it hasnt made it to the top of the list yet ...LOL

WOW nice tool & work Thanks for sharing

See if that helps , it was under supply and then machines on their main site . http://weaverleather.com/Supply/OurProducts/MasterToolsMachinery.aspx#

Campbell and Pilgrim are you best bet , both have been a big help to me and my million questions .

Just remember that the old ones don't have a rail

Very sorry to hear about what happened but glad to hear everyone is ok , good luck with everything .

The big problem here is that many people that ask for a T&E piece are just posers looking for something for free . One option you could give them is to send them a holster for "testing " at normal or reduced price and offer to refund the money after the holster is returned a condition that it can be resold ( yes I know most are custom ) . I have requested and received several items for T&E purposes , however when I do so I am always willing to buy the item with the ability to return it or if the company is willing to send me something for free I always ask them if they would like the item returned after testing . Most items that I have had to do T&E with do receive normal & reasonable wear & tear , I try to do testing down range (as in a combat zone ) or at a class that I am either taking or teaching because that is the only way that I can really put things thru their paces . I have found that as an instructor many students will look at what I am using and go the same route or ask me about different products on the market . That is one reason that I try to get T&E pieces , I feel that as an instructor I should be able to give my students a true and educated answer about gear that their life will depend on . Now this really applies more to tactical gear and duty gear more than a custom holster but you see where I am coming from . I would never ask a custom holster maker to send me something for free but I have sent several holsters back after the fit not being what was promised on the phone ... I have tried holsters from most of the big names out there and only found one or 2 that delivered on the fit he promised , now that was several years ago and I must say that I have seen several peoples work on here that looks like it rivals the big names out there . My holster search was pre internet well before I had it anyway ..........LOL Just my 2 cents worth

It sounds like the biggest problem here is a customer with with very little or no experience carrying a firearm . Is he carrying now and if so how and in what , if he doesn't have a cheap off the shelf IWB holster I think I might tell him to try that before he spent money on a real holster from you & then he might be able to come up with some intelligent idea of how to proceed . I don't see a problem with a standard thumb break (not what he described ) Im not a big fan of clip in holsters but thats just me . Jogging pants ....... LOL , maybe he wears suspenders with them or there is no gravity where he runs ....LOL Bottom line IMO is that if you cant steer him in a direction that you feel will work I think I would pass because when he tells the story it will be all your fault .

Tom , I highly recommend giving Bob a call , he is more than willing to answer all your questions and point you in the right direction . I came into this not knowing anything about sewing or machines and he was a big help & I wish I had done it sooner . You will save yourself a lot of time and stress , also I would highly recommend a servo motor , it will make learning a much more enjoyable experience . If you use the search function you will find a ton of info on the machine & the servo motor & answer to questions that you don't even know you have yet .

What color was the mold ? Unless it was something freaky or you have a preexisting respiratory problem or extreme allergies you should not see any ill-effects , most people only have problems with extended exposure and even with that usually black mold is what causes most serious issues . If you still have the piece you could get a mold test kit from any hardware store , most give you the option to send it to a lab and find out exactly what type of mold you are dealing with . Just make sure you wash your hands well (several min. ) and wash the clothing you were wearing separately (if you are concerned ) it has been my experience that bleach will not kill mold , you can find things online or at any GOOD hardware store that will kill mold , just read things carefully because many products are very misleading ..

Here are 2 places that can help you with finding what you need Some say that the American straight needle lays down some of the best stitching out there , but parts are very limited and the throat depth limits what you can do . Campbell Randall Machinery Co. Pilgrim Shoe & Sewing Machine Co., Inc.

The motor everyone is talking about is a replacement motor ,there are many different kinds and sizes on the market . they work much like a variable speed drill but you can also set the maximum speed , so yes speed is still controlled by the pedal but it gives you total control compared to a clutch motor . I think the pics you posted are of a high tech servo ( Im sure someone will correct me if Im wrong ) motor with more programable options . Something I don't think anyone has mentioned is that the Sewpro that Bob is selling has a built in gear reduction which many don't have .