Anne Bonnys Locker

I could hand crank my Pederson Thor! Unfortunately I cannot keep the Junkers and Ruh as a friend really want one. He loves big machines so the Puritan might finish up with him too, but only after I have had some fun with it!

In Australia the Claes - new with servo built into the head - sells for $10,000. Lovely machine but not $10k lovely!

Sydney Australia? What sort of money do they want and what do you really need? I am in Goulburn and have a range of new and used machines with new motors and 12 months warranty.

Bob, that is the aim. While I am in the business I am also a serious collector and there are a bunch of specialist machines - such as a 400w33 - that have a very limited market but are worth good money to the people who need them.

An Australian is selling off his fathers sewing machine collection and I have the opportunity to buy a lot of machines. The majority of the collection is domestic but there are about 20 industrial models including a Junkers and Ruh outsole seamer and a massive Puritan needle and awl machine. I cannot afford to pay what they are all worth but they are at the point where if they are not sold then they go to the scrap yard.

There is almost nothing useful printed on them. The reversing solenoid just gives voltage (33V) and the duty cycle but nothing else including part numbers.

Hi Trox, the machines are pretty much a copy of a Juki straight sewer so big power isn't needed. The solenoids are already fitted and I just need to power them. As the rotary foot lift solenoid is so small I am guessing it is AC.

Art, I always have a bipolar view of machines and motors. If you want something to last day in and day out in production for one or two decades than buy something built in the west. OTOH if you are using a machine and motor for a few hours a day, every other day, then the Chinese version is more than appropriate for what you need. There will come a time - in the next ten years - when product from China will be as good as anything in the world but that day has yet to come. The majority of people I deal with - even saddlers - use a heavy stitcher for a few hours a day at most and I quite happily suggest a Chinese machine. The people who come to me wanting a 441 or 205 style machine for 12 hour per day production work I piont in the direction of Juki or Adler. Horses for courses.

More confusion, thanks Eric

Serafil is a lovely thread but it does twist! Send a PM to Trox as he uses this too in his machines.

On rotary machines you also need to check that the "finger" that holds the inner shuttle race in place is engaging properly. Before doing anything else check that it is doing it's job.

Thanks Eric, AC would have been simpler for me. I used to work for a solenoid valve company - Asco - and DC solenoids have the disadvantage of being larger. The "shading ring" in the solenoid is supposed to eliminate the hum.

I normally don't touch automatic machines but I just picked up 4 as new Daewoo DLS-600-ATT machines for next to nothing. As I do not have the computers or special motors I am going to use the electric foot lift bar to run the foot lift and thread cutter in one action but I need to supply power. Unfortunately the solenoids just give me voltage and duty cycle without mentioning AC or DC. Unusually the web has proved useless. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

It is easy enough to open the needle plate and watch the process. If the spring in the needle bar is not working then the loop may not be forming properly. Sometimes this can be overcome by adjusting the take up lever but is not an ideal solution.

Also on BUSM, I just picked up a brogueing machine - the one that does the punching in the uppers. Not in great nick but will be ok when redone.

I often get people asking me to re-time machines. Nine times out of ten - maybe more - I find that the problem relates to needle, thread or tension, without ever laying hands on the machine.

I regularly have to point out to people that their cheap and nasty thread is causing them problems. One demo we did was with a Singer 103k treadle tailors machine. Using a good brand thread the machine ran perfectly but even at low speed the hook just constantly cut through cheap crap.

Various people have offered advise for reducing the feed dog issue. A lot comes down to need and budget. The CB2500 with a full set of attachments is a very versatile machine and, with a roller foot, is one of the best for doing fancy pattern stitching.

Normally, if you can a GB2972 sewing then it should be ok and give you lots of sewing pleasure. I would suggest you open the cover plate ate the rear of the pillar and stick your finger inside. If their are metal shavings inside the machine then it needs to be flushed out with kerosine and liberally re-oiled.

Roller foot?

Hand stitching awls are only much good for repairs.

The motor was probably "Made in USA" but at best the machine was assembled there from Japanese parts. A number of companies around the world did this but I would bet everything I own - ok, not much - that it is a Japanese Machine. On another forum I was talking to some friends who run a sewing machine museum and they met a guy who worked for an Australian "manufacturer" in the 1960's. His job was to grind the "Toyota" name out of the casting and he showed them the grind marks on a couple of machines. BTW, I am Darren, Anne Bonny's Locker is the business name. I have been called worse

I am uncomfortable just calling these clones of the Singer 15 as they owe a fair bit to European central bobbin machines, particularly in the access to the shuttle race. It is also possible that the Japanese started building machines with the external feed dog drop knob before Singer. The only place to get the hinged needle plate/bobbin cover will be off another machine but from memory a standard one fits. Most domestic sewing machine shops should carry a range of "standard" brushes. The specs are much the same for all of these straight sewers as they were made for domestic use.At a pinch you might be able to run 138 but at the risk of damage to bobbin case and top tension and take up parts. #92 is a more realistic maximum. Also consider using High Tenacity Polyester as the bonded nylon will cause wear much faster. You can sew garment leather, maybe even soft upholstery leather but it is not the ideal machine for it. On the other hand it is a great machine for learning how to sew.

I am partial to the 201 myself but the Pfaff 30, Minerva and various other central bobbin machines will eat a 201 for breakfast and shit out 66's.

Are you using the right needle size for the thread? This is a very basic machine - essentially it is a 96k41 - so dot many things can go wrong and I suspect the thread path is not quite right.