Southtexas

I really like your snowflake stamp.

I don't see a problem with this at all. Only discussion is on making our own tools. Not selling them. As to weighing... If you look at many of the commercial mauls you'll notice heavy metal discs at the top, sometimes between the head and handle also. Fender washers work, to some extent. Just load on as much weight as you need. I make my own mauls from 3/8" thick disks of lexan stacked on a 1/2" threaded rod. I found the lexan as scrap...

take a look at the 'front break shoulder holster' in the recent gallery images at the top of the main forum page.

You might want to take a look at these folks for flat head rivets. http://www.rivetsonline.com/

I've been using 8-32 machine screws for line 24 snaps for years. Easily found in black if you search actual fastener suppliers instead of building supply centers. The head design allows for the correct fit. search #8-32 x 1/2 Button Socket Head Hex Drive Cap Screw at Nutsandbolts.com for one example.

I have machined Delrin (Acetal) off and on for many years. It machines beautifully but I was never able to thermoform it. Times march on and new materials are constantly coming out. You all might be able to use some of the info provided at http://www.plasticsm...ta.asp?aid=3787 The article addresses thermoformable Nylon and a new type of Delrin. Either might work well for small run holster clips. Machined Delrin would probably work well. But I would think the manufacturing costs might be high unless you got into full production runs. That gets expensive up front, but lowers the per item cost considerably. Hope info helps.

http://riteonscrew.com/swivel.html ran across this from another thread, cannot remember which. This might be just what you need?

I've made many nylon holsters with the thumb break strap actually 'fastened' to the holster itself with Velcro. This did give a great deal of versatility with only slight sacrifice in strength. The Velcro 'loop' on the holster pretty well blended in with the black Cordura. I do not think it would do the same on a leather holster. But, it could be used as a 'design element'.

There is a way to fix that, at home. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiled_printing They explain it, and have links to the software.

If you really want CAD, here is a source for a free version. http://graytechsoftware.com/ For a free, Illustrator like program that works very well. http://inkscape.org/ These are both 'vector' based programs. They do work with a tablet but can be used with a mouse as well.

http://www.standardrivet.com/ Is one source, they do have a $25 minimum however.

Another material is the 'foil tape', self adhesive, aluminum, usually 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide. Stays in place on it's own. I've seen it at car parts (autozone, etc), as well as Walmart/Target. Down here our passport cards are issued with a foil lined 'protector' so I do believe this is 'real'. I now use an aluminum wallet, plan on a leather one with the foil tape later.

While unlikely... did you oil the leather well after the vinegaroon? The first time I tried it I didn't, and it got very dry and cracked as it aged.

Some ideas at http://www.tools-plus.com/dewalt-tool-accessories-holsters.html http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D5120-Ballistic-Universal-Holster/dp/B00005AXIA lots more if you look online for dewalt tool holsters

I took the design from The Art of Hand Sewing Leather but I didn't have a 'standard' chair available. I left those front legs off, and simply screwed the whole thing to the bottom of the seat on one of my bar stools. Works better than I imagined. There are stitching ponies, stitching horses... with the long legs this is my Stitching High Horse.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28286&st=0&p=177514&hl=+ring%20+pad&fromsearch=1entry177514 Is this what you were looking for? No tutorial, simple enough to look at and make your own. If this isn't what you are looking for, sorry.

The projects I've turned 'inside out' were larger, but the secret was to wet them first. Wet leather will let you do all kinds of things to it that dry leather will not. A cloth liner could survive wetting, but I'm thinking you'd need a way to assure it was dried well inside when you are finished.

http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea/SearchPage.aspx?page=GRID&free_text=pitch If the link doesn't work, go to Rio Grande Jewelery Supply, do a search for Pitch. They have black pitch

For work like this you will want to learn about stencils/friskets. They block of the portions you don't want colored while you spray the others. Dyes and acrylics can be shot from the same airbrush. Dye tend to be much thinner so a lot of in between adjustments and of course cleaning. Strongly suggest you check your library or Amazon for some books on the subject first. You won't be disappointed.

I agree completely. Some of my handguns 'bite', others don't. The ones that 'bite' get the shield... As to the sweat, in South Texas that's a given. And so is constant cleaning of all carry pieces.

do a search on this site for 'Hats" or "2062' there is a zip file of tandy hat patterns from way back. One very similar to what you are looking for.

Any luck yet? I have the figure carving book and it touches on faces but not a whole lot. Apparently the book Figure Carving Finesse has a bit more, at least they have a portrait on the cover. I don't have that book unfortunately. The Figure Carving Book does show a lot of the tools used to create pictures other than the floral designs. Will keep watching the thread as I'd like to learn as well.

perhaps the information at http://campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Splitting-Machines.pdf might be helpful with your design.

I used 2-3oz "used" garment leather. I made a backing strip which attached to the sweatband with a welt. The 3 parts were sewn together but NOT sewn end to end. I was able to glue the backing strip to the hat, letting the ends overlap so it could give some when soaked. The way I did this allows me to fold out the wet sweatband to dry. I always store the hat with the wooden stretcher in place and it always fits when I take it out to wear. Hope this helps.