c2369zulu

Any pics? J/K lol. Everything looks great! Really like the camera case and the wallets. Clean work.....

Hello All, Just wanted to share a short video of some leather cutting action on the xTool D1 Pro 20W. This has saved me so much time making small prototype items......Rory Laser Cutting a small pocket sheath for a knife with the xTool D1 20W Pro - YouTube

Thank you! Good idea with the chucked punch! I like using my traditional leatherwork tools, and still use my Weaver stitching chisel set a lot, but shamefully these holes were laser cut at .065" diameter. Saves me a lot of headache. I still drill holes as well from time to time, but the drill bits tear the leather sometimes and leaves nasty little fragments.... Yeah, I was too far along to redo the whole thing. I sent photos to the guy and pointed it out. He was fine with it. That nail idea sounds like a winner!

Thank you! I have gotten to where I don’t mind the larger holes anymore. Makes it so much easier to stitch without pliers. Plus I generally drill out the holes on thicker items like this, but my small dremel bit sometimes flexes and ruins the piece, coming out the side. Thank you! I had him send me photos looking down the blade from head to butt. Appeared to be about 1/4” I think. I did double welt thickness……

A friend on a FaceBook group page I frequent sent me a tracing of an axe he has that needed a sheath. He said the factory sheath did not cover the spike of the axe. I told him it was risky to make it just based on a pattern. We are talking about a secondary market $1k to $2k custom axe though, so I understand not wanting to lose the axe in shipping. Anyway, it came out ok other than the snap setter anvil moving on me and causing an impression at the snap on the retaining flap. Should have got out my hand press. Doh! Hope it fits the actual axe. Veg tanned, Fiebings light brown oil dye, Ritza tiger thread in Havana color, line 24 snaps.

Thanks so much. I really like that style also!

Haha, thanks! I thought it would be a good added touch...

Thank you! Thanks so much! Yes, I believe it was. It was purchased many years ago and just now got used. Thanks so much! Here are a couple more photos....

Hello All, I am looking for one of the older Tippman Boss Stitchers that has the cast iron body instead of aluminum. I just bought the aluminum body model and would like to get an older one for a backup. Honestly not looking to drop a lot into one right now, but if you have one sitting around and not in use, just let me know what you are asking. I am located in Virginia.....Rory

Thanks everyone!

Good morning all, I am sure this has been discussed before, but a search did not bring back many results. Was curious if others have issues with oil dye drying out the leather after use. I say drying out, but maybe it is just hardening as veg tan does, but seems to really have to be oiled or conditioned a lot after the oil dye dries, to prevent cracking when bending to shape. I have oiled and conditioned some oil dyed leather, then stitched up and the leather seems dry and stiff again the next day. I hate stitching then dirtying up the stitches with more conditioner or oil afterward....Rory.

Tugadude, thanks so much! I agree, EDC items are becoming more popular!

Hello All, Been a good while since I've posted anything or really made anything. Here are a few quick EDC tool sleeves I made recently for my everyday carry Half Face Blades pry bar, HFB screwdriver pick and Winkler combat flathead tools. Thanks for looking....Rory

Here is one I recently made for the Becker BK-2.

Thanks for the reply JLSleather! Sorry, I understand that statememt was not clear. The attached photo should help explain. This welt is 3/4" btw to get the width of finished sheath I wanted.

Got mine made by Phillips Engraving. I have been really pleased. The only thing I do not like with this stamp is that the corners of the rectangular block of aluminum the stamp face is cut from, sometimes are imprinted on the leather if you don't watch how deep you are hammer or pressing into the leather.

Hello all, Just looking for some input from others who make knife sheaths. I am working on a Ka-bar "scout" carry knife sheath as shown below and am at a point where I need to decide if I am going to double stitch around the sheath or just leave it as a single stitch. The double stitching would give more support to the welt edges closest to the knife blade, but I am not sure if it is needed. Also, because the inside stitch line is on the inside, I will lose the rounded turns at the bottom/end of the sheath and the corners will likely have to be 90 degree angles. Any thoughts? Would you still double stitch? I could just stitch two parallel inside lines without going across the bottom, but not sure how it would look. Most of the area will be covered by the belt loop and center panel attachment anyway...

You might also try some of the bigger "got it all" companies like McMaster-Carr....

Hello All, I have been playing around with trying to make a couple of "scout" carry style knife sheaths recently like the popular Hedgehog Leatherworks sheaths and I was curious what the distance should be from the stitch line to the inside edge/side of a welt to be most effective. I normally space around 3/16 of an inch from outside edge of sheath to the stitch line/first stitch line if double stitching, but if I am using say a welt that is 3/4" wide from outside edge to inside and I am going to double stitch, what should the inside welt edge to inside stitch line be? Picture of one completed sheath below. Hope that makes sense :). Thanks.......Rory

I have one of the Weavers. I really like it. I also have one made by a friend. The only complaint I have is that most of the designs don’t have much support for forward and backward movement. Edited. Sorry, thought you meant stitching horses, but it looks like you are referring to stitching ponies. I have two of the $100 Tandy versions (at least that is about what they cost when I bought mine). You cannot open the jaws much wider than a thin wallet’s width with it. One of the jaw sides snapped in half on mine when I over tightened it slightly, so that was my fault. They are nice, but a bit overpriced and you are quite limited on workpiece thickness....

Hello all, I have made two kangaroo hide bullwhips in the past and am planning to make a third soon. The two bullwhips I did make were made with 4 plaited bellies and an overlay as Bernie Wojcicki demonstrates in his YouTube videos and did not turn out too bad. I was thinking about trying to make a kangaroo hide bullwhip using the two belly, two bolster and an overlay method this time. Is this method better? It seems many of the known whip makers use this method. I know the basics and have the right tools, but am curious how others approach certain steps. I have the following questions below if anyone is willing to share. - Do you use cowhide or kangaroo for the bolsters? Are the bolsters split? If so, to what thickness? If you are cutting an 8 foot bolsters out of roo hide, does it have the one wavy side like lace after it has been cut around the hide? Is it stretched like lace? - I am cutting my lace with a plain Aussie strander and am curious how you guys taper your lace. Let’s say I am starting with 8mm 4 plait on a 2 foot first belly. What is the rule of thumb for width resizing? Do you resize a mm or so every foot, every 2 foot, or? Should all bellies end with a lace width of about 2mm to 4mm or does it depend on how many strands of lace are used for the plait? - Is the core and the transition area on the bellies still bound extremely tight with a waxed artificial sinew when you use the bolster method? - What are the specs and dimensions used for an Indy style whip’s handle (length/knot styles/distance between knots/thickness/palm knot diameter and length/etc.)and how is the transition area built up on the Indy style whips? I have heard some say a yoke should be used and the start of the plait creates the swell effect on the handle at the transition knot. - Do you guys always split your lace. If so, to what thickness to prevent breaks? Thanks

Hello All. Anyone know of a good way to fix this leather coat tear or is it best just left alone? Thanks.....Rory Here is the back side.....