c2369zulu

You might also try some of the bigger "got it all" companies like McMaster-Carr....

Hello All, I have been playing around with trying to make a couple of "scout" carry style knife sheaths recently like the popular Hedgehog Leatherworks sheaths and I was curious what the distance should be from the stitch line to the inside edge/side of a welt to be most effective. I normally space around 3/16 of an inch from outside edge of sheath to the stitch line/first stitch line if double stitching, but if I am using say a welt that is 3/4" wide from outside edge to inside and I am going to double stitch, what should the inside welt edge to inside stitch line be? Picture of one completed sheath below. Hope that makes sense :). Thanks.......Rory

I have one of the Weavers. I really like it. I also have one made by a friend. The only complaint I have is that most of the designs don’t have much support for forward and backward movement. Edited. Sorry, thought you meant stitching horses, but it looks like you are referring to stitching ponies. I have two of the $100 Tandy versions (at least that is about what they cost when I bought mine). You cannot open the jaws much wider than a thin wallet’s width with it. One of the jaw sides snapped in half on mine when I over tightened it slightly, so that was my fault. They are nice, but a bit overpriced and you are quite limited on workpiece thickness....

Hello all, I have made two kangaroo hide bullwhips in the past and am planning to make a third soon. The two bullwhips I did make were made with 4 plaited bellies and an overlay as Bernie Wojcicki demonstrates in his YouTube videos and did not turn out too bad. I was thinking about trying to make a kangaroo hide bullwhip using the two belly, two bolster and an overlay method this time. Is this method better? It seems many of the known whip makers use this method. I know the basics and have the right tools, but am curious how others approach certain steps. I have the following questions below if anyone is willing to share. - Do you use cowhide or kangaroo for the bolsters? Are the bolsters split? If so, to what thickness? If you are cutting an 8 foot bolsters out of roo hide, does it have the one wavy side like lace after it has been cut around the hide? Is it stretched like lace? - I am cutting my lace with a plain Aussie strander and am curious how you guys taper your lace. Let’s say I am starting with 8mm 4 plait on a 2 foot first belly. What is the rule of thumb for width resizing? Do you resize a mm or so every foot, every 2 foot, or? Should all bellies end with a lace width of about 2mm to 4mm or does it depend on how many strands of lace are used for the plait? - Is the core and the transition area on the bellies still bound extremely tight with a waxed artificial sinew when you use the bolster method? - What are the specs and dimensions used for an Indy style whip’s handle (length/knot styles/distance between knots/thickness/palm knot diameter and length/etc.)and how is the transition area built up on the Indy style whips? I have heard some say a yoke should be used and the start of the plait creates the swell effect on the handle at the transition knot. - Do you guys always split your lace. If so, to what thickness to prevent breaks? Thanks

Hello All. Anyone know of a good way to fix this leather coat tear or is it best just left alone? Thanks.....Rory Here is the back side.....

This item has been Sold.

Hello All. I have a Like New Cobra 4 Sewing Machine that I am offering up for sale in Orange, VA. I do not plan to crate and ship this beast, so I am only looking to sell locally. This is not an item I have to get rid, but I have just not found the time to use it as much as I would like. The machine will be sold with all accessories and tools that I purchased it with directly from Steve and the fine group of folks at Leather Machine Co. I also have some extra thread spools that will go with the Machine.I still have the original sewing head box and the owners manual package with DVD in the original envelope. This is an amazing Machine that has been kept in a clean environment and has been used for maybe 2-3 projects. I am asking $2100, but I will certainly take offers into consideration. I will be happy to send pictures upon request. I can be best reached at c2369zulu@gmail.com Thanks for looking!

Requesting access when you get a chance . Thanks....

Hello Whipmakers. I was curious if anyone could explain how the foundation for the palm knot (not the transition knot) is built up or what the dimensions need to be. Most of those I have seen seem to have a unique shape. Is the foundation built up with shaped leather or layered waxed thread? What thickness of strand is needed generally for covering the foundation and how many bights/parts is the knot supposed to be? I have made a couple of kangaroo hide whips now and would like to make an Indy style whip next. Also, it seems some of the handles I have seen are thinner in the middle of the diamond plait area and then gradually get thicker at the handle/thong transition. Is this area also supposed to be built up differently? Thanks.....Rory

Hello All. Its been a little while since I posted any projects. Here is an Inside Waist Band (IWB) holster I just finished up that has shark skin accent on the belt loops. The credit for the style of this holster definitely goes to Galco Gunleather. This is my attempt to make an IWB holster similar to one of theirs. I had a heck of a time getting the reinforcement throat wrap figured out and sized right. It does not have any metal or plastic sandwiched between the throat reinforcement wrap and the main holster like some makers use. I am not sure exactly what is used for that. This holster was made from 4-5 ounce leather, hand stitched and wet formed using my kydex press. The kydex press worked pretty good on the thinner leather. Thanks for looking!.......Rory

Nice work !

Hello All. I was playing around with some scrap saddle tan kangaroo hide and came up with the idea of making a bracelet like one of the old Western Money belts. I had made one of the money belts a good while back from the Will Ghormley patterns, so I had the basics of what was needed already in mind. This was just a quick experiment so it is a little messy and not perfect. Again it was just for fun. Anyway, I don't know what would be put inside, maybe some small survival items (fire tender, ferrocerium rod, cord, etc, etc. I would have carved something on it if I were any good at carving, but the hide is too thin anyway, so, oh well. Would love to see what others who are good at carving could come up with. Thanks for looking..........Rory

Nice job! I have either a Don Hume or Desantis like that for my Ruger LCP...........Rory

Thats a really cool idea. Nice work..........Rory

I have used both waxed flat artificial sinew from "Kentucky Leather and Hide" (this is the stuff I started "leatherwork" with after visiting their tent at a Rendezvous event in IN), and also used the waxed linen thread. I like the strength of the artificial sinew but the look of the waxed linen. The waxed linen has broken on me a few times when tightening up the stitches. The waxed sinew seems as though it will probably cut through your finger, and glove if you use one, before it would break................Rory

Nice job! I love my P7M8............Rory

Not sure what thickness limits there are, but I think some people use Leather shears/scissors to cut out some of their work. I imagine 7-8 oz would be tough with some shears/scissors though, but I could be wrong........Rory

That's pretty cool. Nice job...

Very cool!

I am with Benlilly1, would love to watch you make something start to finish. Outstanding work. How about a few Youtube tutorials, hint, hint.............. Rory

Bernie. This topic has been posted here for a while and I am late seeing it. Thanks for sharing the videos! I have watched quite a few. I really enjoyed learning more about you on your website also. Very interesting story.............Rory

I have used Bridle Leather a little bit, but not for wet molding. Bridle leather has been impregnated with waxes and tallows for hard use. My guess is that it would not react well to wet forming, but that's just a guess..........Rory

Did you wet form the flashlight properly before selling it to him ?

Thats is some awesome detail! Great job........Rory

Very nice! I always wondered why they did not call spurs "chinks" due the sound they make in movies ..............