mlapaglia

On the whole it looks good. Your stitch line on the top of the slide needs to be closer to the slide next time. Over time it will loosen and the gun will lose its grip in the holster. You did a good job. Keep at it. Well done. Michael

I have 3 and they work very well. You can also look around and get one thats made of brass. It is better and wont crack like the plastic ones do.

Mine thanks them for their purchase, tells them how to care for the item, if it's a holster I include the 4 laws of gun safety and end with an invitation to come back and buy something else. This includes a 10% discount if they become a repeat customer within the first 6 months.

You are correct. I have it right in the PDF just had my hat on backwards when I typed it in the post Thanks

Thanks. To be clear, the EASTERDAY BELT pictures are not mine. They are from a belt done by a young lady on this board whose name escapes me at the moment.

If you can understand what I was trying to say this PDF will help. Its more accurate than trying to use waist size or pants size. Includes layout for billet and chape. FYI Billet is the name for the buckle end and Chape is the name for the other end. Belt specs.pdf

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Tippmann+Boss&_sop=16

Yes its fine, Normal vinegar ig 3-7% depending on whose you buy. I use 5% and its fine. Get a glass jar, some 0000 steel wool and a lid. Put the wool in the jar and fill the jar with vinegar. lightly close the lid. Once a day tighten the lid and shake the bottle. Then loosen the lid and wait at least 2 weeks for all the steel wool to go away. Filter and use. After 3 days you can test it and it will make it black but you need to wait the 2 weeks. I let it eat all the wool then add more. I keep adding more until it wont dissolve anymore. But some people just use a pad or two and let it go at that. good luck.

Yes, I do. You should burnish the edges on everything you make, so, yes burnish afterwards.

I agree, this is why Im waiting for things to settle before I decide.

I am actually thinking of moving out of state because of this. I'll have to wait and see what happens elsewhere. I agree with the requirement to take a physical class but sume of the others, like the magazine limits really bother me.

The only one that was sent to the Governor to sign was the one that requires you to have physical training for your CCW and not just take an internet course. The rest will pass but they have not yet.

Thats what I do all the time. Slap sum Gum T on it and rub it in with a long dowel. Works great

With drying time for molding, oil, dye and finish total time is 3 days. Billable time 2-4 hours depending on the style.

You can buy some Resolene cut 50/50 with water from Tandy or use Mop & Glo floor wax cut 50/50 with water. Both will work well. If you want weather proof then I agree with Tree Reaper on the Sno-Seal.

Springfield has them. $3.99 to $5.99 for a 100 pack depending on the size. Double cap.

How much for the Shield, is it a 9 or a 40? Michael

I have never had an issue with the needle hitting the pressure foot. Glad yours is working now

purchased 29/12/11. Hope this helps

+1 on the grip. Looks good for a start. Id learn to saddle stitch and not use the speedy stitcher. It just doesnt give as nice of a stitch line. What it the purpose of the rivet? You are on the way to making some really nice holsters. Keep it up. Michael

Wrap the gun in a ziplock freezer bag and stick it in the holster the little bit of plastic will help stretch the holster. Let it sit for at least 24-48 hours. The try it with out the bag. It just needs some time to break in.

As shown above, You can get dyed veg tan. That would solve your issues.

With the thumb strap on the outside of the holster won't that make a rapid draw difficult. It looks great Im just concerned about the functionality of that snap.

If you have applied a finish to the leather I would not heat it. It might damage the finish. Normally the leather is cased and then molded, baked and then left to dry for 24 hours. From the looks of the back I would have added some distance between the stitch line against the gun and the start of the strap. The closeness of the straps to the gun could also be causing part of your problem. Id hold off and see what others have to say about it. Take 2 pieces of scrap leather the same size and bake one until it reaches a temp of 125 degrees and the other leave alone as a control. You will see the difference. Be careful as it is pretty easy to burn the leather. I say 200 because thats as low as my oven goes. If yours goes lower than get as close to 125 degs setting as you can. In my oven and at the normal casing water content it takes between 10 and 20 minutes. I take it out every so often and put a insta-read thermometer inside the pistol compartment against a stitch line to take a reading on the temp. When it hits 125 I take it out put it in front of a fan and leave it over night to drive. Michael

Did you bake the holster for about 10-20 minutes after molding it, while it was still wet, at about 200 degs? You need to get the temperature of the leather up to 125 degs. This causes the collagen in the leather to melt and then harden. It makes it really stiff and helps with keeping it open. In addition the heat makes the reinforcement piece stiff enough to help hold the top open. A photo of the back side would help us help you. What weight leather did you use and was it by chance a part of the belly?